10' x 10' back yard office

[soomb]

 
Having enjoyed all the posts I follow over the last few years, I now find myself starting a post.  Bear with me on this as I learn the process.

I have just started a 10' x10' office shed in a hidden corner of my backyard.  I will take any and all recommendations on this project.  i would like to build it well, as I hope to build a family cabin in the next 2 years after this project.

My little corner of the yard, hidden by back corner walls (painting them green in case you see the 2 colors. 



another view



First supply run (MtnDon... The Cherokees keep going)



Cleared a patch down to the solid ground for work to start





Here is the hidden spot for my SHED... shhhh office.

[MountainDon]

Soomb, not only do we have the same taste in vehicles, except mine is dirtier and has scrapes and scratches that are too obvious, we both have shovels with blaze orange painted handles.    Mine wander off and hide without orange painted handles.  

Nice private spot.

[soomb]

Concrete pads in.  Pre-cast concrete in place and ready for PT lumber. My job foreman did a walk thru for me.



PT Beams in and I measured ahead and pre-nailed Simpson H1's into place.  After reading the Floor Framing post, I took some of the good advice and square my PT beams prior to moving a step forward.  I also took MtnDon's post advice to place the two outside joists first and make them square.



I set lines off of the squared joists using a 16d nail as my spacer.



Job Foreman showed up again to inspect my lines

[soomb]

side note: I filled all nail holes on Simpson ties and also toe nailed the joists.  I also used a bead of liquid nails under each.

[soomb]

Soomb, not only do we have the same taste in vehicles, except mine is dirtier and has scrapes and scratches that are too obvious, we both have shovels with blaze orange painted handles.    Mine wander off and hide without orange painted handles.  

Nice private spot.

The camera is forgiving to my Jeep.  I spray it off once every three months, whether it needs it or not  , But I would agree yours has seen more terrain than mine.

[soomb]

Today's progress.  I have to take advantage of the cooler weather here in Phoenix.



corner to corner was dead on square.. THANK YOU  to the forum folks who helped me get square!



Again, I used Liquid Nails on everything.

[soomb]

So my next step is blocking.. after that, I am thinking I should climb under and secure wire mesh (? Workman's Cloth?) so I can insulate the 2x6 floors from above.  Thoughts?

I only have 10'x10' to subfloor, what would you choose?  T&G or standard 4x8 sheet?  Thickness?  I plan on glueing and either nailing or screwing.

[John Raabe]

I'd do 3/4" T&G Plywood or OBS.

OSB if you will do a finish floor, or plywood so you can paint the subfloor and get many years of wear before you do the final flooring.

[bayview]

   You have a good start on a picture tutorial.   

   We lived in Phoenix in the 70s around 42 Street . . .    I thought that I recognized that block wall fence.    Our house had the same windows.

   Keep up the good work!

/

[soomb]

John, I think Plywood may win, as I like the idea of paint or stain it and use it now, and worry about final finish some other time.

Bayview,  I am a little east of 42nd, just off Central.  The windows are slowly being replace with industrial/commercial looking Low E windows.

[MountainDon]

That's looking great. T&G plywood will be a nice floor is stained or painted. Until such time that you might install a finish floor. And if you don't, well then it's finished anyhow.

[mountainmomma]

(Eli here) I recently helped a buddy install 1 1/8  t and g ply, that is one stout floor.  Any future floors, if I got the cash for it, that's what I am going with.  As I've heard b4 on here "When in doubt, build it stout"

[MushCreek]

It's traditional here to do a victory dance on your new deck once you get it sheathed- and post a picture!

[soomb]

It's traditional here to do a victory dance on your new deck once you get it sheathed- and post a picture!

I was hoping to have that picture tonight, but not sure if I will get time to get blocking and decking in place tonight.  My next available work day will be Sunday, so the jig may have to wait.  BUT I will post it.

[soomb]

Next up: blocking and plywood, but first a question: When I go to framing walls, would you suggest 16" or 24" OC?

[MountainDon]

You save so little materials on a small building I'd go 16" Have to hit the hay, more tomorrow AM. Are you using 2x4 or 2x6?

[soomb]

My thoughts are 2x4 to save the floor space on the 10x10 outside footprint.  In Phoenix my main concern will be cooling (Thru wall AC) and I love it cold so the winter months should be decent if I insulate well, as it will be me, 2 monitors tied to a CPU, at least 1 laptop, 2 printers ad a scanner running.  I would even consider covering the external sheathing with a reflective barrier prior to tar paper.

[MountainDon]

If using 2x4 you must use 16" OC studs (code ).

There in Phoenix with no snow load (and being a single story, no loft, right?) you could probably get away with 24" OC 2x4.  I'm sure that's been done before.


There are advantages and disadvantages to 2x4 vs 2x6, but my head (Jaw) is throbbing this AM and I don't feel up to it. Maybe later if you want to start a theoretical/practical discussion on 16" vs 24" stud spacing. Could be interesting/informative.

[MushCreek]

I would use that foil backed foam on the outside. The foil will reflect heat back out, and the foam will provide a thermal break. Put furring strips to hold the foam in place, and to attach your siding to.

[soomb]

Don, I hope the jaw feels better.

Mush, so you are saying (from inside out) layers-Studs with insulation between, Sheathing, THEN foam, then tar paper, and lastly siding?  Furring strips? On the foams exterior with long screws/nails to reach the studs?

[MountainDon]

Meant to say you are going to get arguments about the effectiveness of reflective films. They need an airspace to work. They only provide the ability to reflect radiant energy, no conduction insulation. If you peruse the Building Science website information on designs that range from very cold to very hot and hot and humid, I don;t think you will see any mention of using reflective 'insulations'.   

It could be just me but I'm still on hold as to the effectiveness of reflectives. Data from some place other than a firm or individual with a connection to a foil manufacturer is what I'd like to see. Just take that as an opinion; don't take it to the bank.   

[soomb]

Don,
since I am not going with 2x6, what are your thoughts to the benefits to a foil foam layer on the exterior to make up for the insulation lost in skipping 2x6?  Or is it all overkill?

[MushCreek]

Yeah- I'm not sure about the placement of the tar paper- I would think that would go on the sheathing, then foam, then furring, then siding, but I'm not 100%. There is a product (Can't remember the name) that plugs the gap between the siding at the bottom and the foam. Allows breathing, but keeps out bugs. Otherwise, that 3/4" gap makes a great habitat for creepy crawlies.

[MountainDon]

I believe the vent material is Core-a-vent or something like that.

You have the correct order of installation; sheathing, water resistant barrier, foam sheet insulation...

[MushCreek]

Thanks for the poke to my memory, Don. It is Cor A Vent. Here's link:
http://www.cor-a-vent.com/

As for foil covered- the jury is still out as to whether it helps or not, but a layer of foam will help. especially if you seal the seams and edges well.