Tips on filling nail holes

Started by archimedes, December 02, 2017, 07:07:19 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

archimedes

Anyone have any tips on how to fill and finish nails holes on interior pre-primed trim.

In the past I've used the same white latex caulk that I used on the seams with less than stellar results.  I looked at painters putty, but the directions say it must be "primed with oil based primer" (well that's convenient ???).

Since the trim is already primed I want something that is paint ready - preferably.

Any suggestions, based on your experience?
Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough,  and I will move the world.

LatinForLiar

Use a lightweight spackle. I prefer it to caulk as it can be sanded smooth.


DaveOrr

I've always just used caulking.
You could try drywall spackle to see if that would give you a better finish.
More work though.
Dave's Arctic Cabin: www.anglersparadise.ca

archimedes

Never thought of using spackle in wood trim.  I guess it would work as good as any of the other products, plus easy to sand and ready to paint.
Give me a place to stand and a lever long enough,  and I will move the world.

akwoodchuck

Bondo is the king of paint-grade fillers...but you gotta hustle and it's a mother to hand sand.... ;D

For small nail holes spackle works great.
"The lyf so short, the craft so long to lerne."


Don_P

Not a nail hole filler but if you are into bigger fill. This is kind of pricey but is much more fun to work with than bondo, epoxy base rather than polyester. It has much more working time and is easier to sand. I've used a few gallons of their liquid resin for window and door and log repairs. I reopened one pair of cans 10 years later, partially used, and it was still good enough to repair a window with.
https://www.abatron.com/product/woodepox/

MountainDon

Don, what color is the mixed product, or more importantly what color does it dry down to?

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Don_P

A very light tan, one part is white the other is about khaki colored. their wood consolidating epoxy is similar to West, a clear amber color. They have pigments as well I think.

MountainDon

We have a couple of spots in landscaping timbers that have rotted while the majority of the timbers are fine. I was going to try concrete with tan tinting. I'm reasonably sure that would postpone replacement by many years. 
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Don_P

I go round and round when it is exposed to rewetting. This becomes a slug of non porous stuff that keeps that area from being able to readily dry back out. I'd dig out the really loose stuff, borate, let dry and then consider it. On a landscape timber this will cost more than the timber, but it might make sense depending on where that timber is  :D

MountainDon

It is timber #2 in a three high timber wall with a concrete brick sidewalk at the upper surface.   :-[
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Dave Sparks

There is the old fashion way of making bung plugs of the same material.  I think I did close to a thousand on a teak deck on my sailboat.
Pretty hard to beat walking barefoot on a teak deck in the tropics. The romans said that Jesus did that ::)
"we go where the power lines don't"