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Quote from: JavaMan on February 16, 2011, 05:38:47 AMFirst, I'm going to pull down the roof rafters (4 of them) that we put up late last summer and the ridge board. I've decided that I don't need a ridge board,and I'm going to put the "loft" across the entire thing. That way I'll be able to work up at that height without feeling like I'm going to fall off any moment (fear of heights) ... then I"m going to assemble some rafter pairs and stand them up one-by-one, tying them together -You can cut some triangles from 3/4" plywood and make gusset plates to tie the rafter pairs together at the peak. They can also take the place of collar ties. The loft floor doesn't quite make the grade as rafter ties, but on a small structure maybe that won't matter all that much.There are goods notes on the ridge connection and rafters in general HERE.
First, I'm going to pull down the roof rafters (4 of them) that we put up late last summer and the ridge board. I've decided that I don't need a ridge board,and I'm going to put the "loft" across the entire thing. That way I'll be able to work up at that height without feeling like I'm going to fall off any moment (fear of heights) ... then I"m going to assemble some rafter pairs and stand them up one-by-one, tying them together -
You'll get there! And congrats on working, even for the short term! I know it's tough.Sounds like some good plans on the cabin, which is half the fun after all And perhaps I can help with costs by milling some of the lumber for you? Figure the cost of lumber you need versus what we might be able to mill and I'm sure we can reduce costs significantly!If you get the cedars dropped (wish I could help but I'd get a pro when it's near your home etc) have them bucked into lengths that work for you (8', 10', 12' etc) depending on what you want to do with them, then see if you can find a wetside portable miller who can come and mill them up. The pro portable guys charge about 40 to 50 cents a board foot and with the Woodmizer mills can get something like 30% more lumber out of a log then a regular mill. Savings can be considerable! Would kill two birds with one stone then eh? But be sure to consider drying! They need to be dried correctly or will warp, crack, cup etc and you could lose 40-50% of you lumber if they aren't properly stacked and stickered and protected if air drying. Though I imagine it's better over there then the east side where humidty can be a lot lower.Anyway, hang in there bud! You'll get there and maybe this time when it's roof working time we might be able to come out and help!
Wow, here it is March 30th already ... and the news is that the 6 week contract is done ... however, the really good news is that I now am on a contract-to-hire position (3-6 month contract, then direct with the employer - complete with bennies - yippie!)
Awesome news!Have you thought of buying a snow mobile? I'm thinking a good used one would be an excellent investment for you -- that and a sled so you can tow supplies up.
Yeah, I have thought about it - personally, I think I can do about the same with a Quad and have use year 'round, but a cheap used Snow mobile would be pretty nice to have. I've seen a couple of the tracked vehicles, but they are a bit pricey I'm going to keep my options open, tho!
Quad won't get you there in 2 feet of snow though That's what the old sled's for Of course, with a good quad and a plow attachment you could make your way there and keep the road clear I guess....another option is to have the sled there and snow shoe in to it.
build the roof on this shed as a gambrel style roof. It would give me the best headroom in the loft, and from my own perspective would be a bit easier to put up.
A question that occurs to me about a gambrel roof is how to strongly connect the pieces. The gambrel rafter as used in the factory made sheds use rafter truss plates that are pressed in hydraulically in a press or large roller; not something that can be done with a hammer. Perhaps there is something and I have not seen it. Dimensions (especially building width) etc. (snow load) would be most useful for anyone considering giving advice.
Forget angles and use the framing square. Layout the distance between the bearing plates on a clean subfloor snapping a chaulkline. Your layout is for an initial rafter pair that are used as templates to cut the rest. You can test these to make sure they are right before duplication.See Wagner Chapter 9 Basic Gable Roof page 120 on...Here is a scan of an image in the article on how to estimate rafter length.