12 x 16 backyard workshop

Started by Mike 870, November 18, 2011, 07:10:08 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Mike 870

It's not ideal, but it has some more support in there now so the span isn't as far as the previous picture.   



NM_Shooter

Hmmmm... i also noticed that the dormer header is made up of stitched together 2x4s too... I don't think that will work well for you.  a couple of solid 2x6 would be cheap insurance.
"Officium Vacuus Auctorita"


Mike 870

Bit more progress.  Skylights




duncanshannon

Skylights... nice. Are those pretty straight forward if you have the right size etc?
Home: Minneapolis, MN area.  Land: (no cabin yet) Spooner, WI area.  Plan: 20x34 1 1/2 Story. Experience Level: n00b. 
Build Thread: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10784.0

Mike 870

Well, we shall see.  The hard part (flashing them correctly) is yet to come.  Then there is the eternal fear of a little water seeping inside.  Between the instructions, and a Fine Homebuilding Magazine article I have, I am pretty confident I can do it right.  Getting the hole cut in the roof and attaching the skylights was pretty easy.  Those ones were meant for 24 inch rafter centers, so that makes it much easier.  The mounting hardware falls right on a rafter. 


Mike 870

Put up some fascia boards.  I think the way I joined/intersected the boards looks dumb.  But not dumb enough to redo.  Should have done the larger one at an angle and the smaller one perpindicular to the ground.  I will put corbels right at each joint so it doesn't look so pronounced.

Mike 870

Started roofing this weekend.







Mike 870

A bit more progress from the worlds slowest shed builder.  My buddy is teasing me saying he built his 4000 square foot house faster than I built this shed.  I'm in full on cycling season so not much time to work.  I've started refering to this as my Shabin (Shed/Cabin).  When I tell people I am building a shed they immediately think smaller and are surprised how big it is when they see it.

I peeled up the membrane here in this picture to make the upper membrane on top of the lower one along the gable end. 


Once I put up the fascia on the dormer it will get a full coat of peel and stick membrane since the pitch is kind of low, about 3.5/12.

Sassy

You'll soon be able to start working in your workshop, looking good  :)
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free


Mike 870

Today I stained all the rafter overhangs.  Big bumble bees were eating holes in my rafters so I figured I better get them treated fast.  Then I put up fascia, drip edge and peel and stick membrane on the dormer then roofed it.  I just have the last hip end to roof then the roof will be finished.  Looks about the same as last time.  Fixing that lamp post is somewhere on the 30th page of the honeydo list.



Mike 870

I've been sealing seams, flashing window & door penetrations, putting up felt and building a rain screen.  The felt is tough to put up well by yourslef.  I'm going to have to do it in smaller sections from here on out. 

In the proccess of sealing seams.


Siding and trim ready to be stained.


Site built rain screen.  Will have to fix that felt I ripped.

CjAl

if its not too late i would run 2x4's on end verticly on top of the pine sheathing 4' apart. lay 3" foam between them. that. leaves a 1/2" air gap for venting.

CjAl

oops, nevermind

i didnt notice there was a second page

Mike 870

It's not too late, and in fact, that's part of the plan.  I've got about a 3/4 inch gap on top of my blocking in between my rafters.  I still have to put up insect screen, and then I will add some shimming so that a piece of trim will cover the screen, the blocking and the top of the bevel siding, and still allow room for the ventalation gap.  I will post pictures of the proccess.

Also the strapping will continue up higher, it just happens that I made them by ripping 8 ft sheets down and that is as far as the length takes 1 piece.


Mike 870

Anyone have any suggestions for how to trim between my rafter overhangs?   The design aspect that I am struggling with is that on the gable end, the bottom section will be bevel siding, then a trim board, then shingles.  Wondering how I make that trim board looks like it flows from the gable end around the corner and to the front side.  Obviously I have to lign it up, but is it ok for the trim on the rafer side to be larger than the gable side?



Mike 870

Started on siding and trim.  I've also been staining a couple shakes here and there so I don't have to do them all at once.


akemt

Can I ask a dumb question?  How did you attach the foam insulation boards and what kind of R value did you end up with?  I love the look of the pine ceiling with those skylights!
Catherine

Stay-at-home, homeschooling mother of 6 in "nowhere" Alaska

964haus

Looks great - I'm building a 10x16 workshop so following your build closely.

I'm also incorporating a shed dormer like you have, and I'm wondering if you've got any more closeup shots of how you framed it? It looks like you doubled up the primary rafters and then grafted the dormer rafter on the top of the inside rafter, is that correct? Then it looks like you used a 2x4 header for the dormer itself?

Thanks for any help - I'm new at this and really benefiting from any help!

Thanks,
Matthew.

Mike 870

             Akemt, I had to scratch the foam insulation boards, because it would have made the structure too tall.  As it is, I'm right at the height limit set by the town.  Any higher and I would have to get a variance.  From what I remember, you build up blocking to the same thickness that your foam will be at the bottom and sides of the roof.  You lay the foam and can then sheath over the foam using long fastners that attach to the rafters.  So it's a sheathing/foam/sheathing sandwich. Glad you like the pine and the skylights.  I was a little bummed out because my 1 inch roofing nails just poked through the boards.  I started with 7/8ths then ran out.  Wish I had bought more 7/8ths.   

Mathew,   I did double up the primary rafters. For the frame, I let one 2x4 stud sit on the top plate and the other was scribed at an angle and sits on the inside rafter.  I'm not sure if the way I did it is one of the offical ways. 

        My dormer will have 4 square windows, not 2 rectangles as shown.  There will be another 2x4 where that joint is.  Best advice I can give is get one of the books suggested on framing in the books section of this website and follow those instructions.  http://www.countryplans.com/books.html  I just looked through all my pictures and don't have any that I haven't already posted but can take a picture of whichever angle you need. 

Mike 870

Finished the shingles on this side. Really wish I had done one less course of clapboard so the shingles started lower.  Either that or skip the trim board because you really can't visually differentiate it from the clapboards unless it is a different color.  3 years from now when it is time to re stain, I may paint the trim white or some other color.  I also have 7 inches of exposure on the shingles, but I think less would look better.  Maybe 5 or 6 inches instead.  It is amazing the amount of waste when you are shingleing that small an area.  Glad I bought the cheapo undercourse shingles.






964haus

Looking really good - I'm about 3 weeks behind you but hope to do a very similar finish - clapboard with shingles in the upper gable end. Thanks for the tips on exposure on the shingles and trim.
Very helpful to a new guy like me!

Matthew.

Mike 870

Another thing I think looks good that I should have done is have the trim boards on the corners be visually thinner than the exposure of the clap boards.  If you look that is what a lot of builders do and it looks nice.  It's less expensive too. Also would have had the bottm trim boards along the base connect to each other and start the corner trim boards above them. 

Did part of the dormer today.  Lots of cuts involved, and I knew it would take me forever if I were measure, go up the ladder, go down the ladder, repeat.  So I devised a plan.

How to solve this?


Decided to build it on the ground.  Just build a frame and shingled it on the ground.  Cut it to size with the circular saw and some site made tracks.  Also changed the exposure to 6 inches.



And, plan backfires.  Yup, it's crooked, yup it's staying that way.  Eff it will piss me off every time I look at it though.  Also if anyone does this, there should be a gap between the roof shingles and the bottom of the shakes.  I planned for a gap, but when I got it up there, it was gone.  Must have measured wrong.  Couldn't cut it smaller because of nailing.  Oh well, make the mistakes on the shed and when I get to the cabin (someday)  I'll be a pro.


964haus

I was thinking that it's such a good idea to pre-construct the shingles!! Still looks good, although I do know what you mean about things bugging you - I'm sure I'll have lots of frustrating things on mine.

It looks like you have a ridge vent installed - how did you deal with the dormer section (I've been told to ignore the dormer portion and just vent the main part of the roof).

Thanks again,
Matthew.

964haus

oops, i also meant to ask you about the screen that runs at the base of your walls. Is it to prevent bugs from going under, and if so, how is it attached on the underside (where you can't see from the photo?)

Many thanks,
Matthew (again...)

Mike 870

I chose to vent the dormer as well as the main roof section, because it is such a large dormer in relation to the roof.  I just slit the ridge vent material partially on one side so that it could fall flush against the roof and against the dormer.  You shingle all the way up to the air vent at the ridge before you put the vent roll on top, so there is little chance of leaking.  Then when you shingle over the ridge vent material, with the hip and ridge shingles, you can make sure your slit is covered with some overhang.

The insect screen is to keep the bugs out.  I staple it to the bottom of the house, then put up the strapping, then fold the insect screen up over the strapping and staple it there.  So the screen make a u shape.