1.5 Story In Kentucky

[prohomesteader]

My wife and I will begin building the 1.5 story shortly.  We have our materials list and are waiting on the plans.

Because we will be asking tons of questions and can't provide much in the way of answering questions we thought we could contribute back by chronicling our adventures along the way here, so the next person might have an easier time.

About us:  We are a husband wife couple in kentucky.  We have little to no building experience.  We are building the house on 6.29 acres in nicholas county kentucky.  We are excited about learning and working through the challenges.

The home will be built on a post and pier foundation.  As you will see the land is sloped and we don't want it graded.

To get things started off here is a picture of some of the land with a the approx location of where the house will be going (the blue box is where the house will go).  More soon....

[Redoverfarm]

prohomesteader I an sure you will get all the advice you will need and then some.  Nicholas County here in the Mt. State as well.  Nice location for a house. Good Luck.

[phalynx]

We looked at a lot of land in KY.  Very beautiful.  The one thing that I found out in KY is that you cannot do your own plumbing even if you are building the entire house yourself.  You might want to look into this and make plans accordingly.

BTW, that land looks familiar.  Did you buy it from Bruner Land?

[prohomesteader]

@Phalynx - Yeah, we got it from Bruner Land.  It's on Pleasant Valley Farm.  We'll definitely be getting quotes from plumbers.  Thanks for the heads up.

[prohomesteader]

@ redoverfarm - We need all of the help we can get.  Thanks for the well wishes!!

[phalynx]

prohome, 

I thought it looked familiar.  We looked at that property and a couple of others.  We really liked everything about it except the restrictions.  We needed to live in our RV until the house was done.  The first person we talked to said it would be ok, just move it around from time to time but then the owner got involved and said abolsutely not.  We really wanted to be there.  It's beautiful. 

I even talked myself into allowing someone to do the plumbing.  I was absolutely scared of plumbing as I had never done it before.  Now that I have, I think it's really easy.  I can't believe KY won't let you do your own.  Check with your local county to find out everything required.

[prohomesteader]

@phalynx - they've been real nice to us about the land, there are some restrictions but they are mild, you can even live on the land in a tent for up to a year to build you house.  our house should be done by that so it's good for us.

we do love the land though, great spot so far.

as for plumbing, that is one of the projects we had always planned on outsourcing so it is no problem for us

[phalynx]

Are you sure about living in a tent?  That was pretty much spelled out in the restrictions.  I think it was no more than 30 days?  That's where we got hung up.  We were nearly ready to sign.  I agree, they were very nice people. 

[prohomesteader]

sure thing you can

12.)  No tent, camper, school bus, or recreational vehicles shall be used as a residence, either temporary or permanent except for the purpose of monitoring building of home for a period not to exceed one year.

you can check them all here:

http://www.brunerland.com/Kentucky/DarrellPleasantValleyFarm.htm

we got lot 6

I'm actually glad the covenants are there, I know my neighbor can't plop down a 1962 single wide and start a puppy mill right next door now   other than that the restrictions are quite mild imho

[phalynx]

HA!, they changed it.  I just found the restrictions they sent me.  It was 30 days..   Maybe I made a bigger impact that I thought...    Well that's pretty cool. You guys got a nice place. I liked EVERY restriction except the 30 days one.  I didn't want a puppy mill either.  Reading through these, they altered them quite a bit.  Ours shows a limit to the # of chickens per acre which would have allowed us 4.  The swine was limited to 1 per 4h student. 

I am going to look at the property again..    Maybe you need a new neighbor...  Now, if I can just talk my wife into 2 homes....   Maybe I can finish this one first.

[prohomesteader]

thanks for doing the legwork for me phalynx, I've got a year to camp now 

would love to have you as a neighbor, I could use your expertise in building

Update:  Got the plans today!  I will need to sit down and examine them thoroughly.

a couple notes

1.  Love the "read me first", really helps get acquainted with things

2.  wish there was a zip drive with a digital copy of the plans, i reckon to make copies I have to copy the folded ones,  no biggie but I'm prone to spilling things and don't want to destroy them accidentally and would like a backup to print from

here's the plans that arrived in ky safely today



Went and bought a shed for $450 today and a riding lawnmower for $250 yesterday.  I'll try to find some time to study the plans over the next few days, will be mowing some grass and putting together the shed though.

[phalynx]

Head to a copy shop and make yourself about 6 copies.  John allows this for the building of 1 home.  Keep the original locked away.  "play" with the copies.  Johns plans are VERY simple and easy.  I reccommend that you use a middle beam for a total of 3 beams.  I built using the 2 beams per John's plans.  I used No 1 2x12's 16" on center.  Although they are very strong, the bounce is horrible.  I put in a make shift temp beam and it cleared it right up.  I don't know if the I-beam joists remove this flex.

[prohomesteader]

ordered the framing book.  made a few copies of plans and looked through them.  mowed the building site for first time, ordered hughes internet for the site to be connected when building, got the small shed almost done

I'm not sure where to ask questions about the plans, here in this thread would make sense for people following along or in the "plans questions section"?  I'll put them here from now on  or let me know if you all want them elsewhere.

I got some help lined up for in a couple weeks to do the posts.  I have some basic questions first, there seems to be 10580 ways to do the posts, but since I will have some digging help, it's time to pick one and get a solid understanding.

I plan on doing wood post foundation http://countryplans.com/foundation/index.html

1.  the frostline here is 18".  How much deeper should I dig the hole below the frost line?  or how deep should the holes be?

2. my soil is clay.  the plans say the hole should be 24", is the hole round or square?

3. what's the best way to dig a 24" wide hole?  I assume an auger doesn't go that wide or would kill me doing it.

4. squaring, the plan is 20x30, when measuring do I go from the outside of the posts or center?

5. can I just use a level and a 2x4 to level the posts or should I have the beams out there to connect and level?

6. review - dig hole, fill with 8" of packed and crushed gravel, lay down a 2X10 piece of pt wood, place pt 6x6 on top of 2x10 and fill with soil cement mix.

thanks all

[glenn kangiser]

1. - I think the 24" should do it

2.  The foundation doesn't care about the shape - just the bearing area needs to be big enough - clay can cause other things to consider if it is heaving or expansive  clay - well drained usually keeps the problems away.  Is the clay wet or soft in the bottom of the hole.  I have clay here but it is dry and basicly claystone until wet and mixed so no problem.

3.  Backhoe can do a good job on 24" wide.

4.  Whatever it takes to get proper spacing per plan.  If it shows centers then drive a temporary nail to hook the tape - most have a nail head slot in the hook on the tape, then get centers of the rest from there.

Easy way to square - 3, 4. 5   or 6,8,10, or 30, 40, 50  - example - 6 feet one way -from point "A" - 90 degrees off "A" go 8 feet --when square the points from the end of the 6 feet and end of the 8 feet will measure 10 feet diagonally.  The rest of the sides continue on of course - temporarily mark these on your framing with a pencil or nail etc.

Over all corner to corner after joists and rim joist are placed will get it perfect so don't nail things all down hard until this final ceross squaring - Parallel is OK but leave it loose to move the whole thing corner to corner diagonally if your design allows that - makes things easier.  A sledge hammer and block of wood  2x etc will trevcent marring and breaking.  A steel 50' or 100' takpe will come in handy for the corner squaring- not cloth tape - I have seen too many of them stretch.

5.  Put the posts in extra tall - use a laser if available or a good quality string level to get all tops marked even then cut them to the proper height.  Turn the string or other level the opposite direction to see if it is accurate within reason.  There are other ways to do this - very accurate level and long very straight 2x to bridge  from post to post to transfer level (none as good as an accurate laser IMO though.)  Some like a water level though they have their own set of problems.

6.  go deep enough to keep the post below the frost level on top of the gravel IMO

[Redoverfarm]

I will just re-eterate what Glenn has said with a little extra.

The bottom of the concrete is what needs to be below the frost line.  So if it is 18" then I would make it 24".  If you are going to add gravel then dig deeper to allow.

Although I haven't read the plan on this particular cabin it seems to me that 24" diameter is pretty big considering you are going to place a 6"X6" post.  Maybe I am wrong but is the 24" the diameter or the depth.  18" should be well enough IMO with concrete surrounding.  Someone enlighten me also. As for the shape it is usually easier to dig round as the post hole diggers are make to dig this shape.  With a 24" deep hole it seems useless to rent a backhoe which will probably disturb more dirt than needed.  I would opt for hand digging but I do most of the time for fence post so other than a gate post it's not that hard.

When squaring I usually go to the outside corners and measure from that outside corner to the diagonal post and read it on the outside corner.  It is easier to get the four corner post square and then string line the middle ones.  Brace the post well after they are square to prevent movement when pouring the concrete. 

As glenn said I would either use a laser or builders level (20X) is fine.  Laser makes it a one man job whereas the builders level requires two people

It sounds as if you are going to bury the post rather than use a Simpson Fastner on top of the concrete.  If that is what you are doing IMO I would refrain from putting a 2X10 in the hole under the post.  Just another thing to rot.

Well that's my $.02 worth

[prohomesteader]

thanks all

the clay is super hard at just a few inches, but soft if it gets wet.  it's terrible to dig in it unless it's wet, and even after hours of rain it only gets wet a few inches deep, it's literally hard as rock almost the rest of the way

round does sound easier and the good point about the round tools.  the plans require 15 holes to be dug.  my bro might get access to a bobcat with a 16inch bucket digger on it, fingers crossed

24inches does sound pretty wide for a 6inch post but that's what the specs say for clay.

yes I was going to bury the post, as for the 2x10 at the bottom it's what the foundation notes show http://countryplans.com/foundation/index.html

thanks also for the info on the depth.  18" frost line plus 8" of gravel bottom leaves me at each hole at least 26" deep. I'll probably make them all 30" then to be safe.

need to invest in a laser level also it appears.

post measures are from outside and centers on middle posts per plans

[glenn kangiser]

You don't have to have the laser but if you can afford it you will enjoy it. 

A  cheaper one may get you by but about $400 gets you a great one complete with a full kit of accessories.

Look like
$350 at home depot.  This is the one I use. 

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100015661&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&PID=1319015&cm_mmc=CJ-_-shopping_com-_-D25X-_-100015661&cpncode=07-67117206-2&URL=http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/BuildLinkToHomeDepot?linktype=product&id=100015661&cm_mmc=CJ-_-shopping_com-_-D25X-_-100015661&AID=10368321&cj=true&srccode=cii_13736960



http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080QFBU/sr=1-14/qid=1217983387/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1217983387&sr=1-14&seller=

[OldDog]

Got any buddies in the business??

I borrowed one from a friend when I was ready to cut my 34 posts to grade.

Sure was nice!

[Redoverfarm]

prohomesteader like Glenn said set them all a little long.  Then find someone with a laser level and in about 5-10 minutes to mark them and then cut them off later.
Maybe cost you $15-20 for their time.  A laser level is something that you might never use again.  I am constantly using my builders level or I wouldn't have bought it just borrowed from time to time.

[prohomesteader]

ouch, thanks all.  looks like I'll be looking to borrow a laser level.  shocked at the sticker price

speaking of expenses,  I haven't moved any dirt yet but here's my expenses so far

$350 Generator (gotta have power)
$18   Framing book
$160 plans & parts list
$1000 1989 chevy silverado (my tempo wasn't hauling this stuff, bought a used truck)
$500 8x10 metal shed with wood foundation (gotta lock stuff up from thieves)
-------
$2028 Total

And I haven't even bought a single nail for the house yet   

[glenn kangiser]

A good string level could do it also - string tight and remember to reverse it to be sure it is correct.  Probably not as accurate as the laser.

Get a good 4 foot level also - Stabila is good. For small areas,  you can use a good straight (eyeball down the edge) board or joist to transfer level post to post with a good quality level sitting on top of it.  Draw your reference line from the main corner.. - block the board up along side the post - temp nail it to the side of the post at the ref. line with it being blocked fairly level - go to the other end with the level sitting on top - raise and block the board - make the post and continue.  Not as good as a laser or good tight string level but will do pretty good if done very carefully

[prohomesteader]

sitting in a hotel in boston, here's a quick update / few more questions

updates

my bro and I squared off the site and marked/staked the post holes

a backhoe is scheduled to break ground wednesday morning at 8am exciting times they will be digging the holes for the foundation posts, hopefully I can get some pictures up by next weekend

internet is scheduled to go in thursday, hughes net dish, equipment will go in the shed for now.


questions:

1.  is there a certain type of gravel to use in the foundation holes?  I'm planning a 5 part gravel to 1 part cement mix however a search of this site doesn't mention anything about the size or type of gravel, I reckon it doesn't matter but wanted to ask.

2.  http://www.countryplans.com/builtupbeam.html  Am i going crazy or is the math on that page wrong? My builtup beam should be six inches wide i think but  2+1/2+2+1/2+2 = 7 inches, the text there says it makes 6 inches but the picture shows 5.5 inches,,, what in the world?

I need to make a 30' built up beam but not sure how 3 2x12's and 2 1/2 inch pieces of plywood all together will = 6 inches thickness or any other suggestions for making the beam

3.  on the 20x30 are there beams at the 20' side?  I know there are two beams on the 30' side that the ijoists rest on but is it just ijoists on the gable ends with plywood sheething going down the side to cover up where a beam should be?  I can't tell by the plans how many beams are required or where they go

thanks all

[glenn kangiser]

1. Crushed will lock together better than round.

2.  2x12 are only 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 inches thick - not 2 inches unless you get rough cut 2x boards at full dimension from a mill -- in that case leave out the plywood.

[prohomesteader]

i reckon the size of the gravel isn't as important then as long as it's not round.

that makes much more sense about the beam dimensions now, I knew the wood was smaller but wasn't aware that was factored in to that page, it all makes more sense now

still not sure about the beams on the short sides yet though

thanks again glenn, you rock 

[glenn kangiser]

I couldn't find my plans but the end walls are non bearing -

Found them -- wife straightened up my pile of......I mean filing system...

John shows on Page 1A beams at gable ends can be eliminated if no cantilevered floor joists are supported - such as for a porch - also eliminating the end center pier.  He shows Double Joist at the ends in the written note, in that case. 

He shows 2x12 select struct or I-joists.

These things will show up as you spend time reading all of the fine details and notes on the prints.  I'm a bit more used to it than some - but you will get it as you continue studying and become intimate with them -- then about the time you are extremely familiar with them you will be done....