Siding--what is the most durable?

[CREATIVE1]

Getting estimates on my house, and going crazy!  Everyone has a different opinion (based on what they're trying to sell me).  For example, one source says that cedar lap siding lasts "forever", another says that no one is happy with it and I'll start having trouble within two years.

So-- what do you think?  (Western Washington)

1.  Cedar lap or channel
2.  Cedar ply or T-1-11  (with battens)
3.  Douglas fir, as above
4.  Other?

Don't really want hardiplank--we installed it on our house in Florida as a PAINTED surface, but I'd like a wood look.  

[hnash53]

I used T 1-11 with battens on my cabin which is the nash cabin in the gallery on www.countryplans.com. It has been on for 4 years, I stained it once and is holding up well in the wyoming sun and hard winters.

Cedar is great too because it doesn't rot, well maybe eventually if you don't give a shit about it.  But even if it's abused it holds up great too.  

Arguments can be made for anything.  go with what you like mixed in with a reliable product...you'll be happier having chosen what YOU wanted.

best wishes,

Hal

[Amanda_931]

I had nothing-done-to-it ply-wood type T 1-11 (i.e., all the plies were wood), no battens, in my Nashville house.  Still looked pretty good after around 20 years.

And I've experimented with slab wood siding.

[CREATIVE1]

I like the idea of second cut siding, but haven't found a mill that will deal with me direct.  

[Sassy]

Hi, one of our members, PEG, posted pictures of the remodel he did on his home showing the natural wood siding, but I can't find it anywhere.  It looked real nice though & had weathered well.  Anyway, he'll probably be reading this thread & he can re-post some pics or tell you the thread they were in.  

We've used  cedar & pine inside & out - mostly untreated.  Seems to be holding up nicely & still looks good, but isnt real old yet.

[CREATIVE1]

Was wondering what kind of treatment was used o  the -1-11 that held up for 20 years?  I would be staining it, and am looking at Cabot or Sikkens?  

We put T-1-11 on our Florida house, and it held up so-so with stain.  Splash-up from exposed decking was the main problem, which of course we could control with the new house.  We also had no overhangs!  Now we do.  THAT was fun.

[bil2054]

There are alot of colonial era, i.e. built 300+ years ago, houses around here that have cedar clapboard siding.  My family has owned a couple also.  While I can't swear it's all original, not having been around for the full duration, [smiley=wink.gif], it does seem to have some pretty good longevity.  I would say it has to do with: 1) old growth source, and more importantly, 2) proper maintainance.
I have also seen a few T-111 buildings that are holding up well, including the shed I built for my Mom about twenty or so years ago.
I plan to use T-111 on my house.... I like the look, plus it is (relatively) cheap and quick to put up, since it is siding and shear rated sheathing all in one.
I might put battens at some point, or not.
With plaform building I would offset the second story bottom plate the thickness of the siding to get an overlap.... I'm not sure what to do with the balloon framing.  Probably a "Z" strip with a caulked batten over it.

[John_M]

I am using cedar shingles.  I am prestaining them with Sikkens.  I know it will be a lot of work, but I'm hoping that treating both sides (dipping shingles in stain) will give me better protection.

[jraabe]

We have cedar lap siding on the Solar Saltbox and it looks fine after 25 years - no rot or other problems. It is now ready for a third coat of stain but there are plenty of NW houses where it is left unstained (it turns dark gray).

[JRR]

Billy Bob, you could always glue on spacer strips, to the studs, to offset the sheathing.

[bil2054]

Thanks, JRR.  I have been considering the shimming route.  That might be as simple as anything, just rip some strips of the T-11 and tack them on the upper story studs before siding.
Whatever seems the most effecient, i.e. laziest, way is what I'll do. [smiley=wink.gif]

[peg_688]

Getting estimates on my house, and going crazy!  Everyone has a different opinion (based on what they're trying to sell me).  For example, one source says that cedar lap siding lasts "forever", another says that no one is happy with it and I'll start having trouble within two years.

So-- what do you think?  (Western Washington)

1.  Cedar lap or channel
2.  Cedar ply or T-1-11  (with battens)
3.  Douglas fir, as above
4.  Other?

Don't really want hardiplank--we installed it on our house in Florida as a PAINTED surface, but I'd like a wood look.  

#1:  Cedar bevel/ lap is good , this is 1/2" x 6"  clear 4" to weather.

 This is about 6 to 8 years old .  Natural,  no nuttin on it  

 

 First installed look:

 

 This area is about 15 to 20 years old ,

 

 House before ,

 



also painted cedar siding 1" thick no long availble 1"x 10" with a rabbit at the bottom that ingaged the course below . It was Tight Knot (TK ) didn't hold paint very well it was not back primed, if your painting cedar the old wisdom was to back prime before installing , it was suppose to prevent peeling , also oil based paint only.

 I'd avoid vertical channel if your in a coastal / high wind area. I've worked on to many house's that have it here on the Island that water get's behind , wind driven water. If your on the penn east side out of the wind , MAYBE ok. Not sure don't live or work over there.  

 #2: Twenty plus year old plywood T1-11 8"oc groove's , stained twice    
 

   As you can see it's up off the gnd. and doing fine .

 I'd do the fir out and overlap the T1-11 like this ,

 

 #3:  Even more costly, and I'm not sure you can get D.fir in bevel / lap . I've seen it as drop siding before but not bevel. MTL they would  be using 2nd or 3rd growth and mostly sap wood,  if it is at all affordable . If so it would not be worth what you where paying for it / not worth a darn IMO , or it would be Hem/ Fir  read,  almost all hemlock also not very decay resistant wood .

 #4:  I used some  finger jointed Redwood about 7 years ago that was very nice and is holding up well , the folks have painted it twice still looks great from the road , althought I haven't been close up in awhile .  

 I have to idea if it is still avaible  :-/ You'd have to ask around at like Sound Cedar , on I-5 MV area or maybe Edensaw woods in PT.

PEG



 

[peg_688]

I am using cedar shingles.  I am prestaining them with Sikkens.  I know it will be a lot of work, but I'm hoping that treating both sides (dipping shingles in stain) will give me better protection.

 Good man John it will last a couple of human life time's, good stewardship, and will  look great MTL you'll never have to do it again with that techenic  

[bil2054]

Thanks, PEG; I reckon that's the ticket.  Looks pretty good, too!

[peg_688]

Thanks, PEG; I reckon that's the ticket.  Looks pretty good, too!

 Oh I forgot to address your "Z" metal. I don't like to use it some times ya have to but I try to avoid it . The lap looks better, IMO, is really a  much better seal. The "Z " metal catch's dirt grit etc . Seems to always get bent by a ladder , and just in general looks bad.

 There are some things to think about with T1-11 flashing details are sort of wierd/ harder around doors and windows , other roof etc . All things to factor in before you decide.

 High exposure site's might not be the best choice , it's only cheap to put on , if it fails , it's no longer cheap.

 

 

[CREATIVE1]

The joins on T-1-11 on gable ends or a two story are an issue  (probably would be with channel cedar vertical siding too). We put cedar 1 x 4's over the joint--actually two rows, tall house, there was some kind of protector plastic stuff, and it rotted big time.  I do like the board and batten below/ cedar shakes above look in John's Victoria Cottage plans.  Hopefully can get 10' or 12' boards so the sidewalls don't need to be pieced?  Might have to get creative, but that's O.K.

Dipping shakes in Sikken--yeah!

[peg_688]

Yes that's why I don't like the Z metal , or even worst a  batten run horz. big time wood sandwich , [highlight]caulking  ,WILL ALWAYS FAIL[/[/highlight]u], it is not flashing .

 Overlaps are the best way to go when ever possible .

G/L PEG

[bil2054]

All true PEG.  I found the "Z" to be a PIB on our shop, as you say, and it just didn't look very good.  Tried hiding it with a 3" molding, so then there was this board stuck on the side of the building for no obvious reason, (actually wasn't too bad under the eaves, but stuck out like a thumb on the gable walls) Then there's the rot problem. [smiley=embarassed.gif]

One reason I think T-111 (with proper overlap) will work good is only 12" rainfall per year.  I don't think wood rots very quickly with so little moisture!

p.s. Onetime caulking doesn't fail is when its something you have to take apart!