stove installation

Started by diyfrank, October 22, 2017, 04:17:30 PM

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diyfrank

Hi. I haven't done any work on the cabin in recent years other than cutting trees and move dirt. I'm thinking on getting my stove set up. It something I haven't needed much but it would make staying over night in the cooler months nice. I'm thinking going through the wall and up to prevent possible water leaks in the roof and easier to install. I could use some thoughts on heat shields as far as floor and wall . Also where to buy materials. I'm planning on putting in a septic system this spring as well. Indoor plumbing and permanent heat source are two things that would really bring the comfort to the cabin. I've been thinking on more solar but so far a small system and generator has been working well. I think heating is something I can get started on now and septic in the spring.
Home is where you make it

ChugiakTinkerer

The shielding and clearance you'll need is going to depend on the stove and pipe.  I'd look up the info on the specific model you have in mind, or perhaps something similar, and see what the manufacturers recommend.
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story


flyingvan

  Consider draft issues, too---if your chimney terminates higher than the highest point of the structure it will probably draft OK bu there are a number of factors---opening size, flue size, windward vs. leeward side of the house...
   I share your leak concern.  If you can put your stove smack dab in the middle of the structure, you gain quite a bit---you are letting the smoke go vertical, not horizontal.  Most of the flue is inside and warm, not outside and cold.  You get more heat transfer into the structure.  You get the best possible drafting.  If your chimney straddles your ridge (the flue can go to one side of the ridge pole then you box it in over the ridge) you avoid leaks since it's at the summit.  Embers float away from the house.  Best of all, the heat is most evenly distributed throughout the structure.

Good article-- http://www.woodheat.org/best-practices.html
Find what you love and let it kill you.

UK4X4

Common in the UK is run the chimney inside as high as possible inside the building and then exit at 45 deg through the wall and finish at ridge height ie if on a gable wall.

I think the concern with height of the chimney is more about carbon monoxide poisoning than venting efficiently, I had a wood stove venting at just above eaves height for years in the UK with no issues, but also had no windows in the gable ends where smoke could come back in ie hot smoke rises or goes horizontal in a wind.


Pellet stoves while needing electric only need a small 3" vent and vent through the wall directly.


flyingvan

     Keeping CO out is, of course, concern #1.  Drafting, though, is a bit different than venting.  Every structure ever built has a 'Neutral Pressure Plane', where above this plane the inside pressure is slightly higher than the outdoor pressure.  Below the plane is a negative pressure, trying to draw air in from outside.  Many things change where that plane is.  Building shape, chimneys, fires, vent fans, wind loading---just cracking open a window, all can change where that plane is.  Any appliance that burns stuff below this plane tries to pull air from outside in, unless the stack effect of the vent or chimney can overcome it.  Everything inside wants to vent through the chimney or vent with the highest terminus---this includes attic vents.
      This wasn't much of a concern in older houses.  Your UK house might have been in that category.  Now with a big drive towards energy efficiency and improved materials, houses are built much tighter with very little air infiltration so structures really need to be designed with airflows taken into consideration.  Gas dyers, ranges, furnaces, fireplaces, fart fans, hoods---all need replacement air.
       Also--there's an insidious cause and culprit for undue negative pressures in homes now.  HVAC ducting in vented attics that have a hole or leak.  They pull air from the structure and dump it out the attic.  This will lead to CO build up inside.
Find what you love and let it kill you.


diyfrank

Thanks for the thoughts. I guess putting brick under a woods stove is not necessary or on walls for that matter it sounds like.
No one has a suggestion on stove pipe sellers? I can buy local but always feel I'll be paying too much.
I do feel it will vent just fine since they make pipe to vent through the wall and up. I have 320 ft of floor space so a small fire should heat easily. I plan on having it all sized correctly.
Home is where you make it

MountainDon

Quote from: diyfrank on October 29, 2017, 07:50:01 PM

No one has a suggestion on stove pipe sellers?

Not any particular seller as you have to pay shipping on a heavy item if not ordered local.

I still love our Vermont Castings Aspen stove. Not cheap when we bought it and even more now. It works well for a small cabin. Ours is 480 sq ft, more like 440 sq ft measured inside.  If you search for info online you will find many negative reviews along with some great. The negative ones are generally because of one of two things.  It has a thermostat, a bimetal coil, that opens and closes the air inlet. I had to adjust the length of the chain to allow the flap to close more at any particular setting. The other complaint is from people who have very tight cabins. Insufficient air exchange into the cabin makes it difficult to set a fire and sometimes to maintain a burn at low settings. The stove does have a long smoke path to comply with EPA emission requirements. The optional fresh air inlet solves that. I noticed that as a deficiency right away and installed the kit the week after the initial install. The problems some purchasers have had right off the bat has resulted in some other folks getting to buy the used one at very good "distressed sale" pricing.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Dave Sparks

For stove pipe
http://www.woodlanddirect.com/6-inch-DuraTech-Stainless-Steel-Chimney-Pipe-6-inch-length?gclid=CjwKCAiAxarQBRAmEiwA6YcGKCrJggekvotQAf3eSsq-ChHhREvE4QBFgruiuuiDiITe0cN_uKU-DRoC8g4QAvD_BwE

As Don said too big of a woodstove is a major mistake in any size building. I would rather be undersized and not have to be concerned with build-up especially if you are burning non hardwood. The Canadian Osburn is a fine wood stove that many of my clients and I use. EPA clean and no catalyst.
"we go where the power lines don't"

diyfrank

Thanks for the link. I already have the stove, its just not usable till I install chimney pipe.
A project for the memorial weekend. It will be cold & snowy till then.
Home is where you make it