18 x 32 cabin in NY

[John_M]

Just thought I would post the progress out at our place.  I have look forward to seeing so many of your projects come to completion.  I hope mine turns out as well!!

http://ourlittlecabin.blogspot.com/

[Amanda_931]

Looking good.

[glenn-k]

Looks good-- I think your excavator has a good point -- brace the CMU's with the floor.

[jraabe]

Nice blog, John. I also like the tall crawlspace...

[dmlsr]

keep the pictures coming



Dave

[John_M]

Well, we got some work done this weekend and will be out there this coming weekend as well!!

http://ourlittlecabin.blogspot.com/

[dmlsr]

walls 10 feet high??

we used the big foot system also.

Dave

[John_M]

Actually the walls are 12 feet high!

[Amanda_931]

durn, if you'd been a bit closer, you could have come borrowed a Guzzler pump from me to push water up to the site.

[John_M]

Ahhhh......a little hard work now and then builds character!!  We don't know how good we have it these days!!

[Amanda_931]

Well, it is a hand pump.  But the harder you pump the less it does.  As soon as we figured that out it worked fine.

[John_M]

A bit more accomplished last weekend and hopefully lots more to get done this weekend!!

http://ourlittlecabin.blogspot.com/

[John_M]

Well, a few weeks have past and we have gotten a fair amount done.  Hope to get her dried in completely in the next week or two.

http://ourlittlecabin.blogspot.com/

[tjm73]

Looking good.  Love that view.

[Pala]

Dormers look great.  That's a really cute place.

[John_M]

Well, a few more weeks and a little more progress!  Hope to start installing the cedar shingles soon!  Any advice from anyone??

http://ourlittlecabin.blogspot.com/

[peg_688]

 Hope to start installing the cedar shingles soon!  Any advice from anyone??

#1:Use  15 lbs. felt not Typar or Tyvek.

#2:To start first course I hang a #2 shingle ,( total lower first course is dbl. sort of like you did on the roof .) Back to the hanging down shingles , choose shingles about 3 " wide , space them about 5' apart hanging down 1 1/2" below where the true bottom course will be , then snap a line right on for the lower cousre on those hanging down shingles , now tack a 1x2 either with a screw or shingle nail, now you have a guide to set your shingles on fill in the sub cousre then lay the second course off setting all joints by 1 1/2 " or so . once your lower courses are layed remove the straight edge move it up to your snapped line for course #2 repete as many times as nessary .

You can come back later or right after and cut those shingles that are hanging down off witha hand saw , makes it easy and straight to get the first course on . Some folks try to shingle to a string line , what happens is one shingle gets caught on the stringe then all your shingle are crooked

 

#3:Use galvinzed nails , 5 penny large headed not shake nails head is to small , don't over drive the nails . Some use a 3/16" crown staple out of a gun , I'm not crazy about that use , but be sure your not over driving the staple , use the regulator on the compressor to dial in the right pressure .

G/L PEG      

[glenn-k]

You are such a genious, PEG -- I can barely keep up with you.  Sounds like a good way to get your shingles on straight.

[peg_688]

#1:You are such a genious, PEG --

#2:  I can barely keep up with you.  Sounds like a good way to get your shingles on straight.

#1:  Nah just some things someone / someones former mentors, some tormentors   have shown me.

Edited to add:  I'm sure not a spelling genious  


#2:   Now thru the beauty of the internet, guys like John  who set up site like this , and you, who keep us all in line   I get to pass on a few ideas that work. I've seen / been shown lots of stuff that didn't work so I weed that stuff out, unless it's to teach a lesson

Seeing John_M a teacher by profession/ trade he can see the beauty of being the student here.  

[glenn-k]

Everyone really appreciates the fine advice you generously dole out PEG.  It's great to have a pro like you here --- no need to take all of that amassed knowledge to the grave with us is there.   Now -- if I could just keep you in line --- or if anyone could keep me in line...   :-/

[MIEDRN]

Peg,

Are you talking a double first course? If I remember right, the first one was upside down or flipped, is that correct?

Then you use a small strip of board to lay the courses straight?

I'm trying to absorb as much as I can. Pardon the ignorance, but please correct me?

John M - I'm going to check out your blog now. I love those blogs! It's a learning experience!

[peg_688]

Yes on cedar shingle and  shakes the first course is dbl.ed . On comp / asphalt shingle the first course is dbl.ed and the lower shingles are applied upside down  generally if it's the old "3 tab" shingle . The more modern shingles the onces without the lookouts/ knotches in them can be put on right side I IIRC. Most packages  / bundles of shingles have instructions / drawings on them for general how to install .

Here a link on cedar shingles :

 http://www.cedarbureau.org/certi-label/shingles.htm


And installation :

http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation/wall_manual/page04.htm

I noticed they now recommend 30 lbs felt , I,d still use 15 unless it was a high exposer site , lots of wind driven rain ,  

 Hope it helps , G/L , PEG

[John_M]

Thanks for the advice PEG.  I will get some pictures out as soon I get going on it!

[woundedsky]

How much did the foundation cost?

[John_M]

The foundation itself was about $1000 for the excavator who dug the footer and then backfilled after the masonry work was completed.  He also installed the drain tile and graded the site as well.

The block work was $3650 for the 10 inch block walls, and an entry door to the crawlspace on the side.

So to answer your question - $4650 total.