Stove pipe path up stair well, 20x30 1.5 story

Started by ntexastom, October 24, 2010, 10:32:20 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

ntexastom

I want to locate wood burning stove centrally and route the stove pipe up the opening in the 2nd floor created by stairs but it seems too tight with all the clearance needed. I do not want to fall back to a complete pre-fab fireplace insert but do not know of other options. Suggestions...
Patience is the companion of wisdom...

Redoverfarm

If you are restricted by code compliance this should be taken into consideration with this route.  I can say that insulated pipe does not require the clearances that non-insulated (black) pipe does.  Without seeing what you are attempting and what if any code requirements exist it would just be a shot in the dark.  You can make gradual bends ( elbows ) to work in tight situations. 


MountainDon

As John points out it may be workable with insulated S/S pipe. Single wall, non heat shielded pipe has a usual clearance requirement of 18 inches; insulated pipe is 2 inches IIRC.  And even if the combustibles were 18 inches away it seems my arm is longer than that and I could easily and foolishly touch the pipe with my bare hand. At times, with a new fire started, my black pipe can reach 300 degrees just below where it transitions to insulated pipe. (measured this weekend).

I would think the upstairs will get plenty warm enough from the regular convection currents warm air will set up without needing extra heat from single wall pipe. YMMV.  ;D
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MikeOnBike

We have thought about the same plan as ntexastom.  I wondered it we could use the metal shielding set 1" from the wall surfaces to reduce the required clearance just like when installing the stove.  I planned to install hardware cloth between the stovepipe space and the stair space to keep fingers away from the pipe.

Redoverfarm

Mike you might consider using a piece of extruded screen framed in with a small angle iron and painted with high temp flat black paint.  It would probably be more appealing.  You could attach it much better as well with a few screws to the wood framework in area of the stairs.  Sort of like you see logging trucks use to protect the rear windows of their truck.

Something along the lines of some of these examples

http://www.google.com/images?q=extruded+metal&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=UTF-8&rlz=1I7TSNA_enUS401US401&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=uSnGTKT_GoKBlAevqIHzAQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CD0QsAQwAg&biw=1345&bih=559


MountainDon

I like the expanded metal. Get it chromed.   ;)
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MikeOnBike

Quote from: MountainDon on October 25, 2010, 08:12:15 PM
I like the expanded metal. Get it chromed.   ;)

With matching chromed rebar on the stair railing?

I didn't plan to wrap the pipe with the hardware cloth, just separate the stairway from the pipe chase, like a window screen between the two spaces.  The extruded screen would be more durable and stay flatter.

ntexastom

I went over drawings today with the wood stove people and settled on a Vermont Castings Aspen model with rear stack exit (instead of top) so that gets my back clearance as well as pushes the back out almost past stair landing. Going double wall from the stove up to a framed in class 2 pipe starting at 2nd floor rafters. Thats around 14 total feet of class 2 which will cost as much as the stove but damnit that is where the stove is supposed to go!
Patience is the companion of wisdom...