One story plan with loft

Started by ssrhb5, April 28, 2017, 08:50:22 AM

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ssrhb5

Hi there, I'm interested in building a small cabin with a loft and like the look of the 1-1/2 story.  But trying to keep costs to a minimum and ease in building it myself, I was wondering if there was a plan for the one story 20x30 with a partial loft and if that would decrease cost and difficulty compared to the 1-1/2 story plan.  Thanks for your advice.

SouthernTier

Depending on how you define "plan"...

I am of the same mindset as you, and I have "planned" (in quite detail), a 22x28 cabin with a loft.  Details are in the cabin design link in my sig.  I planned this out with the goal of keeping things simple so I can self-build, and hopefully keep the costs down.  This would be opposed to, say, making an architectural statement or flourish.

I hope to start sometime this summer, but have not run the plans past the building inspector yet.  However, I have read the codes pretty closely and believe I will be in compliance.

I don't have a set to sell or otherwise provide, but perhaps this can give you some ideas.


azgreg

Here's an example of a single story with a loft (I believe  ;D).

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=13845.0

They used trusses, but no reason I can think of why you can't use rafters with a ridge beam.

ChugiakTinkerer

Welcome to the forum!  There's probably too many variable to be able to say if one plan might be better than another to meet your goals.  If you can do as much of the work yourself as possible, that goes a long way to keeping costs in check.  And keep in mind that a simpler design means easier and cheaper.  Just don't go cheap on the foundation.  The old adage about castles built on sand is worth heeding.

Good luck, and share some pictures along the way.  :)
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story

hpinson

Have you looked at the 1-story 20x30 plan from this site. Simpler than the 1.5 story plans I think. Could be modified for a loft.

http://www.countryplans.com/jshow.com/y2k/listings/46.html


ssrhb5

Thanks to all of you for your replies.  I have looked at the 20x30 one story and think that would work if we incorporated a loft.  My main question is this - if we purchase plans from countryplans will they adjust them to our specific situation or is that something I would have to do?  I've participated in building our homes in the past, but have not designed the framing/foundation/roof plans, so I was hoping for help with that.  The property is also in an AE floodplain area and after completing a required survey, I know it will need to be elevated 5 feet.  I had hoped to build on piers, but have since  learned (on this site, from inspectors and from many other sources) that would not be wise.  My goal is to keep costs to a minimum especially having to build a 5 foot crawlspace with flood openings.  So would it be sufficient to order the plans or does it sound like something I'd have to figure out myself or have a local drafter/designer help me with?

ChugiakTinkerer

Your local jurisdictional authority could probably answer that best.  Generally, and I say this as a guy who stays at Holiday Inn Express, you don't need plans as long as you are building in accordance with the code that has been adopted in your local area.  Some code enforcement departments want to see plans ahead of time to ensure that what you want to build will be code compliant.  Some inspectors are very reasonable and will accept comparable methods to what is prescribed in the code.  Other inspectors will demand even more that their authority and the law requires.

I'd start with the permitting authority in your community, usually the county, and ask them what permits you'll need and what additional document they require.  From there hopefully the path will be obvious as to how to go forward.

If you haven't seen the building code before, here's the latest version of the International Residential Code.  Your county or state may have adopted this, or perhaps an earlier version.  The IRC is a list of prescribed building methods that are known to be reliable and safe.  If you build to the code the building inspector should sign off on it.  If you need to do something beyond what is described, then you need to build in accordance with accepted engineering practice.  That means you'll need an engineer to sign off on the proposed design.

So in theory you should be able to make any changes to a set of plans, and as long as those changes are prescribed in the code then you have a plan that meets code.  The question that only your building inspector can answer is what will they need to see in order to even issue a building permit?
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story

hpinson

QuoteMy main question is this - if we purchase plans from countryplans will they adjust them to our specific situation or is that something I would have to do?

Not speaking for John directly, but historically, no, that is something you would have to take on - i.e. modify his plans to your own needs.

ssrhb5

Apparently the inspectors need to see a lot!  Wish I were building in Alaska....but the property is located in NC in an AE flood zone, basically a 100 year floodplain and so that seems to create far more paperwork than I've seen in the past.  I've learned quite a bit about flood zones lately.  Technically because it's in a floodplain not a floodway, engineering should not be required, and although piers with bracing seem to be recommended according to some FEMA documents, a local inspector told me that since there is no "prescriptive" information in the codes, that building on piers would require engineering.  This is while some of the paperwork sent to me from my inspection department even showed diagrams of pier construction.  Aarrgh.  They are fine with a crawlspace incorporating flood openings, but since it needs to be elevated five feet, that seems much more labor intensive and costly than piers.

In the past I've hand drawn a simple floor plan, filled out a form and moved on, not so easy this time.  In the interest of trying to simplify things, I was hoping to submit a more detailed plan and having one predrawn with more specs on foundation system, framing etc. seemed like it might go over better with the inspectors.  Also, if the plans include both pier and crawlspace I'd be OK whichever way they want me to go. 

The goal of this project is to have a low-budget little place to stay near the water, this is our step up from a popup. Our 3 teenage boys won't be home for much longer and my husband and I wanted something small but with a loft or bunk area for the boys.  So at this point it seems using the one story plan would be helpful and either adding a loft (if it's not too complicated as far as changing the plan) or maybe adding a deck that could be enclosed for a bunk room.

In my situation, would it be worth buying the plans to possibly appease the building department?  It would also be nice to have everything mapped out since I'll be building mostly on my own, hopefully with some help from the teenagers.  I really appreciate your experience and advice on all this.


Don_P

Actually any house on piers requires engineering, not just in a floodplain. There is nothing wrong with them showing that method, it is simply engineered rather than prescriptive. With that understood, part of the cost of piers is the engineering required. If the building department offers a prescriptive path weigh the cost of that non engineered method against the cost of an engineered pier foundation. For an engineered element the engineering needs to be performed by someone licensed within your state.




ssrhb5

Finally spoke with the chief inspector and was told that engineering is not required and 6x6 piers on 2'x2' footers would be fine.  May just depend on your area (or which inspector you get on the phone) as to the need for engineering, so word of advice, talk to the chief inspector before planning.

cbc58

#11
if you build in an AE flood zone, are you required to get mandatory flood insurance?  I came across a site that says if you are in an "A" zone it's mandatory... but they may have been trying to sell insurance... 

Dave Sparks

You do not have to do anything if you don't have a loan :) except pay the Tax if you want to keep it :P
"we go where the power lines don't"

Don_P

Quote from: ssrhb5 on April 30, 2017, 02:50:13 PM
I know it will need to be elevated 5 feet.  I had hoped to build on piers, but have since  learned (on this site, from inspectors and from many other sources) that would not be wise.

Having an engineer review the foundation would be a wise thing to do.


cbc58

wonder what the restrictions are for installing a septic system in a floodplain..., and what would happen to a septic system if it was underwater for a week or so due to a flood.  can't be good for it. 

ssrhb5

Fortunately my lot already has a septic system and although the area had been flooded, upon inspection it's in great condition.  We will be grandfathered in for our septic (no permit needed, they will just probe it to verify it's there).  If we had to install a new system, that could be much more difficult in the AE floodplain, and could be extremely expensive to have engineered in a floodway if the county would even allow it.  I was told that if necessary there might be an option of a large (3000 gallon) tank type of system could be installed without a leach field and it would be pumped out regularly.  Kind of like an enormous porta potty. Glad ours is ok.

flyingvan

(what would happen to a septic system if it was underwater for a week or so due to a flood.  can't be good for it.)

   cbc58--- there is a specific protocol for managing on site wastewater treatments after flooding.  There are some regional differences, but a common theme--

1) Don't use it at all until the field has dried out.
2) Pump the tank out completely (get a good service that keeps switching from chamber to chamber so they don't blow out the baffle in the middle by having one side full and the other empty) Also pump any lift stations
3) Refill the tank up to the outflow level with fresh water to prevent the tank from floating out of the ground.

   A friend over at Dept of Environmental Health here is of the opinion a good flooding over a field with an active biomat actually IS good for the system in the long run, rejuvenating the soil interface.  I would think it depends on the soil.

   
Find what you love and let it kill you.

JRR

Remember most municipal water treatment systems don't do well during floods or power outages .... a well designed and maintained private septic system may the more reliable of the two.  ??