We are building a 16x26 cabin in some deep woods. We got the idea a few months back and stumbled upon this forum, now we are convinced we can build a cabin on our weekends. We have a road through our neighbours property that we can use for now, and we are just starting the foundation. We have a piece of land cleared and holes dug for some concrete piers. I'll keep this thread updated with our progress hopefully it goes well!!!
w*
Are you serious about the $1000 for 50' of Sonotube? :o I guess Canadian money doesn't go very far. ???
Good luck on your build.
Yeah Poppy we are going to back and check again because 20 dollars a foot seems a bit steep, hopefully they made a mistake! We got the first row of holes poured using 8x8 forms made out of 2x10s with some rebar stuck in there and we have the saddles leveled and set in there. We haven't gotten a generator in there yet so its all hand mixing on sheets of plywood for now.
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6934/img1620k.jpg)
First row of forms poured
Hard way to go. Nice if you could find a "Mortar Box". I started out in a wheel borrow and found a Box and it simplified that chore considerably. I was going to comment on the forms but ifigured you had already poured them by now. As far as putting a release agent on the inside to make it easier to get them off.
Do you own all the land that is between your house and the lake or will you be able to clear the view somewhat?
Hey there, theres an area around the lake that nobody owns but some trees may come down in a windstorm next weekend ;)!
Whew! Mixed up around 65 bags of quickcrete, pulled out a stump, and got the beams in! After being told 20 bucks a foot for sonotube we took a trip to a different store and got it at the proper price and finished up the last two rows pretty quick. We used BiggKidd's method for the piers ( http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4113.20 (http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4113.20) ) and filled the hole up with concrete and then put the sonotube ontop, so we have some huge footings in there. The foundation was a ^@*$ to level but it turned out pretty well, the beams went in pretty smoothly and we ended up needing less shims than we expected. Happy to be past the lifting/mixing concrete and hole digging stages, and excited to get onto framing! ;D
(http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/8783/p1010996r.jpg)
The road in
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/2793/p1010980r.jpg)
Foundation done and level!!
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2093/p1010994aca.jpg)
Our clearing
Those old cars are the fruit of a somewhat unwelcome but not totally rare growth in the deep woods. The Latin name escapes me at the moment, but left to their own devices, they will spread... I found a few of my own, now fully eradicated....I think.
Other than that, being a fan of that type of woods myself, I have to say you've got a beautiful piece of land there, congratulations!
Hey Bobcat. Coming along nice. Where in Western Canada are you. I'm guessing somewhere in BC.
Alberta Curt
Thank you for the support Curt and Considerations.
OK I'm just gonna lay out the next phase of my plan for some constructive criticism
I'm planning out the sublfoor that will sit on top of the beams. I am thinking about framing the whole cabin 24 " on center including the joists for the subfloor and sheathing it with 3/4 inch OSB T and G.
I have a very low res image of our plan.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Photo54.jpg)
We have 3 beams 7 feet apart the floor is cantilevered 12" out from the centers of the far beams giving us 16 feet of depth and the beams span 26 feet in length there is a bay where joists cantilever an extra 2 feet. there is a joist that runs down the center beam where all the joists will meet but I am debating running 2X10 the full 16 feet and then blocking so there is something to nail/glue the sublfoor down to.
Not sure if that all made sense but any suggestions (especially on where hurricane ties would be most effective or) changes or if you think we should go back to the drawing board I will appreciate your thoughts.
thanks Bobmarlon d*
I will try to get a better image
Bob, it looks fine to me, all the beams are straight and apparently level. Extending the walls out another foot over each side won't hurt a thing, I've done it before. I wouldn't advise any more than a foot, eventually it could sag. Your cabin idea is real similar to my pier & beam design that I'm currently building in Oklahoma. We're running along at about the same speed too. I also will have 3 beams and just today got all my piers poured. Lumber will be here first part of next week so I can start building my beams.
As far as location of the hurricane ties, the stress points are anywhere wind can cause an upward lift, mainly the sides and ends. But for stability, I'd put one down everywhere one wooden structure joins another. ie; joists resting on beams, etc..
Its looking good Bob and I'll be watching your progress as you go on up! Good luck! [cool]
"there is a bay where joists cantilever an extra 2 feet."
I'm working on a 14 x 24 and:
My floor joists cantilever 2' beyond the floor beams the full 24' length of the cabin on both sides....however, there are diagonal braces that run from each foundation post up and out to the rim joist.
"I am thinking about framing the whole cabin 24 " on center including the joists for the subfloor"
I did this as well, the floor, walls and roof in 2 x 6's ...my floor is 2 x 6 T&G the roof rafters are 2 x 10's. Some have recommended that my drywall be thicker than that used for 16" OC framing, so it doesn't (hopefully) "wow" between studs and rafters.
I have strapping and ties in every place I could think of, except where the bottom of the wall is attached to the floor.
Additionally....because of using a post and pier foundation, I drilled 14 holes in the ground - 6 along each long wall and one at each end under the cantilever, filled them with cement, stuck a 1 x 3" bent steel strap in them and am bolting the strap to another strap that wraps around the floor beams, just another stabilizer, should the "big one" hit, being this is earthquake country. I hope they are never tested.
Thanks for the input guys, Were going to be starting on the floor after next weekend I think I secured the T and G leftover from a movie set so that should save us some money. Its surprising how much construction materials people get rid of.
Tex star Ill be looking forward to seeing your floor go in.
Considerations your cabin is looking great I like the cutaways in the loft and the big window you made from a table.
I put the floor joists (2x10) on our 15.75 x 30 cabin on 16" centers. I did it to make the floor as stiff as possible without going to 2x12 joists. My joists are cantilevers about 10 - 12 inches.
We also went with 16" spacing on the ceiling joists (2x8) and the rafters (2x6).
I did 24" center wall studs. The drywall we used was 5/8" type X. It is heavy to work with but there are no waves in the walls. I have seen new construction here in town with 1/2" 'rock on 24" and they are wavy. The 1x T&G stock on one wall was no problem on 24" centers.
The 24" wall stud spacing does give a slightly better insulation R value to the wall as there are fewer studs. However, when I add up the extra studs for the windows I didn't really save all that much money going to 24" spacing. However, I also found that with 24 inch spacing the positions for electrical outlets and switches (secured to studs) is diminished.
If I was building the cabin again, I still go with 16" centers on the floor joists and ceiling but I'd go 16" on the 2x6 walls as well. If I was worried about heat transfer then I'd add a layer of foam over the exterior.
Well folks, It's bobcat here after a few weekends of no work. We went back at it an hauled in our first big load of lumber in, we have the floor framed and a temporary set of stairs up. We are in the process of hunting down some used doors/windows and are waiting for replies from a few folks.
We decided on 16'oc 2x10s for the joists and are happy with how it turned out, heres some pictures!
(http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/1447/p1020005.jpg)
Floor!
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6935/p1020001o.jpg)
view as you drive in
(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/1962/p1020002.jpg)
Stairs from the leftover 2x10s off the pier forms
Bobcat and I have been working hard, There has been a substantial amount of progress made from our last post. I lost the chord for our digital camera so this post will be a bit of a jump.
We sheathed the floor with 3/4" fir T & G and pinned it down with rink shank nails and of lots of sub floor adhesive. We found one of the larger tubes would last about 2 and a 1/4 sheets. We ended up using 7 tubes through 14 sheets.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1692.jpg)
The first walls go up
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1699.jpg)
and we learned to frame smaller sections at a time!
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1698.jpg)
We pre fabbed our headers out of 2 pieces of 2 X and a piece of 2 1/2 " foam to fill in the gap
Alright Time for the notches
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1684.jpg)
we didn't have any clamps so we used our tie downs
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1685.jpg)
then we went crazy with the saw
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1688.jpg)
after breaking out all of the pieces I cleaned it up with my block my plane. I'm sure a router would be more accurate but I don't have one and routers give me a head ache.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1689.jpg)
finished off the corners with a chisel a shoulder plane would have worked better though.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1690.jpg)
fitted pretty snug with the Hampton premium
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1700.jpg)
the final wall
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1701.jpg)
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1702.jpg)
and almost level
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/Picture1697.jpg)
Time to sheathe the walls all tips are welcomed :)
Bob I don't want to sound critical but when you headed out the windows and doorways having the foam(filler) on the exterior of your inside wall will be difficult to attach your interior wall covering and trim. An alternative would be to place the foam on the interior of the header. If I were to go that particular route I would have used a solid block on each end of the header to bring it out to the depth of the wall and then used the foam in between(from left to right). That way you get equal distribution of the weight transfer.
Yes it is easier to frame in smaller sections but a pain to get lined up. Good job.
Red we almost did put the foam in the middle but we are inexperienced and I was worried it would change the headers structurally. its not to late to pop out the foam and ad blocking though.
We gladly except criticism we don't want our house to fall down!
I am not sure what others will say but I have often used an open header with the blocking on the inside and out. I would just cut blocks for the ends to put between the two header pieces. I normally just build up the header to be full demension whether that be a layer of 1/2 ply and 3 layers of structural wood or what ever gives me the proper wall demension. There is some area's in building that you can scrimp and save on but headers is not the place. Non load bearings walls it is not as important as load bearing walls.
looks like great progress
Looks awesome!
I like the notch on the glued beam! ;D
Wow finally got the whole thing sheathed the last row was a huge pain in the butt!!
Heres whats going on now
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020027.jpg)
From the front of the house
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020029.jpg)
From the back
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020030.jpg)
Lots of sheathing in the rain It paid off to dedicate an hour to setting up the tarp and making sure there was no pooling.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020041.jpg)
We started putting up 30 minute paper but didnt feel like getting back up on a latter so we decided to quit here for the day.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020043.jpg)
nothing to do after a hard days work but get are wood pile started
We picked up these windows and doors off of craigsist
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020034.jpg)
These doors will lead to the deck in the back once its constructed
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020035.jpg)
Smaller window will be in the kitchen and the larger will be in one of are loft dormers
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020037.jpg)
these smaller windows will flank the french doors
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020038.jpg)
The larger green tank will be used for water storage and the smaller tank will be used to transport water to the camp
Making good progress there.
What did you pay for the windows and doors from craigslist?
How much rain do you get there? I used to live by the Canadian border near Bellingham Washington - next to British Columbia - could walk cross the border out behind our place...
Great progress - hard to get things done with all the rain, eh?
Poppy the windows and doors were 600 dollars from craigslist, we originally wanted to pick up some for free or dirt cheap but after spending all the money on our floor and deck we decided cheaping out on the windows would be pointless. Theres actually 6 windows total and the the french doors the 2 not pictured are duplicates.
There is some kind of special glass in these windows thats soposed to block the sun and keep it cool in the summer warm in the winter. Anyway you can see more on that hrere if your interested http://www.gienow.com/pd-695.html (http://www.gienow.com/pd-695.html)
I believe sassy we probably get the same amount of rain which is quite a bit, if theres no traffic you can drive to bellingham in about an hour from vancouver. Ive found though since I was a pool builder working outside all winter to get pools done for the summer it doesn't rain as much as you think. Ounce your outside and your wet your just wet and you get used to it.
Looks good! Your tarp is working better than mine!
>:( Jden Im sad to say our tarp fell down!
Well folks, it's Bobcat here signing in once again! The camera ran out of batteries and it took a few weeks to finally get around to replacing them but here is our latest progress
(http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9120/p1020046q.jpg)
The loft framed up, that 2x6 in the left of the photo is a temporary support that we will replace with a log we have drying
(http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/3633/p1020048o.jpg)
Ledger board notch
(http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/4031/p1020049.jpg)
2x8 rafters, 2x10 ridge, 10/12 pitch with doubled up 2x6 collar ties
(http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/1112/p1020051.jpg)
the roof is more mellow in the loft
(http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/9499/p1020053.jpg)
the second loft viewed from the original loft, we are planning on having beds on either side with a gap in the middle
Looking great, Bobcat! You're moving right along. How many in your building crew?
Most days it's just two of us... but the boys will come and help every so often
The steep portion of our roof seen in the last photo is supported by two double color ties made from 2X6 these are spaced 4 feet apart. then we have two 6X10 built up beams that span the cabin these are spaced 8 feet apart and are attached to the ceiling rafters sitting on the top plate these are also going to support a small extra loft.
does anyone have any structural opinions on this do the rafters do the same job as the ceiling joists were thinking about putting another small collar tie at the top of each rafter pair to create a small attic.
Looking for some of the structural guys to give us some criticism/advice
I sure like to see some more pictures of your cabin boys! [cool]
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020056.jpg)
This is a picture at eye level of our lower loft and you can see where are upper sleeping loft will be.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020055.jpg)
double color ties
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020058.jpg)
Never got a chance to dance on my subfloor so Ill just have to rock the roof!
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020062.jpg)
roof over hang extended over now
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/P1020076.jpg)
and the back of the cabin we are going to have a large 12 X26 covered deck here.
Ive kind of started slowing down because I havnt always been sure what to work on lately or how to do things. Ive been getting a little burnt out. like others I wasnt sure what to do for my gable over hang so I didnt extand anything out for my barge rafter. I think Im gonna use corbels to hold it up. were at about 5000 here but we have the roof matierial and facia trim all bought. I might just roof it like this and take a break for a while.
Lookin good, Bob. [cool]
I know what you mean about not knowing what to work on next. Once you get the roof sheathed there's so many things to turn to. Early on, there's one thing to do- frame the floor, frame the walls, frame the roof- it's one goal in front of you. Now I see literally hundreds of things to do and it makes it difficult to know where to start! I guess it's just pick a project and go.....
What kind of roof are you planning?
Bob
I know where you are coming from with "what to do next". Mine has been 3 years plus and I am still after it.
Generally you start with the bottom and go up leaving the finished flooring til last unless you are using structural flooring. Electrical, plumbing, insulation and wall covering.
It does concern me with leaving the overhang off during the installation of the roof. Normally the roof surface would be one plane without any seams at the overhang to the edge. Mating up the overhang (soffit or false rafter bay) to the existing roof and still maintaining that level roof line can be tricky to say the least.
origanly I wanted a metal roof but now Ive decided to go with asphalt shingles it just seams easier.
Has anyone else put in a ridge vent Im going to put one in but havn't been able to buy one yet.
Yup, I prefer the shingle over vents, "Shinglevent II" is about the easiest to use. The soft roll out type are pretty easy to get bumpy ridge going. Shingles are easier, safer to work on, don't mar as easily, easier to flash, easier to repair, lower cost.
Thanks for the info don p! That product looks exactly like what I want the people at my local building center said they would order in whatever I wanted I just didnt really know what I wanted yet
Hi guys! Your cabin looks great! I am planning on buiding a one level shed about the same size. How did you attach your beams to your concrete posts. I see those metal things in your posts but I can't see how they attach to your beams. As you can guess I am really early in the planning stages.
I used powder coated 6X6 post holders theirs 2 nail holes in the sides I just put some nails through nothing special I have been kind of planning to drill some bolts through or something.
Took a break for a while but were back at it. Were putting a few extra windows then were gonna start siding it. here's the latest
Finally got are front and back doors in
The front door probably gonna paint it red one day
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/photo4.jpg)
The french doors! These took us forever to install it was a bitch to get them to close properly.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/photo32.jpg)
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/photo5.jpg)
Two new window opening. Were gonna ad two more tomorrow
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/photo-1.jpg)
So much better with all this light
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/photo22.jpg)
anyway thanks for looking, exited to get building again!
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/62138222.jpg)
View of the backwall
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/f93b2c31.jpg)
View of the corner I was standing in the last photo
[(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/257b5865.jpg)
view of the new windows we have added
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/27a57fcf.jpg)
we picked the boards for the siding. It's cheap 1x10 SPF we spent two hours picking through the crap. We are going to stain it on both sides then slap it up then batten it. This stuff was around 40 cents a foot cedar being around 2 bucks for the foot.
Looks great! Looks like it will be an early spring in your part of the country. :)
Yeah its been great for us the warmest febuary ever. But bad for the olympics the torch came by my house last night.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/b0fdcd62.jpg)
We got some facia up on the front of the cabin
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/e7038e39.jpg)
started doing a little roofing so far I like the look of the shingles
we got
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/aeed8a40.jpg)
these are the boards
were using for siding now
we
just need to turn these into these
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/eb284274.jpg)
we've got 100 to go
Nice progress. Your siding should look very good. [cool]
Thanks poppy! were having great weather and Im planning to make a push to get my roof done but Im gonna have to get the courage to get back up there first.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/3b8060f7.jpg)
Great progress, keep the updates coming!
About your siding, what does SPF stand for? I'd love to find a similar deal in Western Washington. It's so warm out, it's weird!
SPF usually refers to Spruce, Pine or Fir. They are similar enough they get tossed into a common grading group.
Solar I'm sure you will be able to find a similar deal you are very close. It really isn't as much a deal
as
being willing search through 1000 boards
for 2 hours.
I finally got a day to go work on my cabin. Bobcat and I got the roof nearly finished, its completely shingled except for the ridge. I am hoping to put in the ridge vents and finish shingling the ridge on Sunday. I have to say I kind of liked roofing it was easy on the mind and we got to be in the sun all day 8). Here are some progress pics.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/645150b5.jpg)
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/8b058aab.jpg)
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/675e23d6.jpg)
you can see here the shingle line isn't that straight but I am still very happy. it was hard to get up there after falling off my roof last year d*. I cant wait to see it with some siding, we scored four boxes of prime cedar shingles that were going to use for the dormers and Gables above the belly band and the rest will be board in batten. I'm just so sick of it being a big black box.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/536cb962.jpg)
Budda Monk and I salvaged these fir beams from a cabin we tore down; They are 3" by 8". I really want to use them for a covered porch I am planning to build. The porch is going to be 26 feet long and I wont be able to get 16 of them because they are going to a few different places. Does anyone have any opinions on running the as rafters 4 feet on center then sheathing over with 2X10 there will be a moderate snow load as this part of the roof will have a very low pitch. I just really want to use these they will look awesome after there cleaned up and sanded so I'm looking for some cool ideas.
[cool]
Just a thought as I look at the roof. Be sure you have used a drip edge on top of your fascia board. That will be important when you install your gutters. Also, don't forget the rake edge along the fascia on your rafters.
[cool] Good job buddy looks like you guys got a lot of work done yesterday!! Roof line looks fine, it looks plenty straight from the ground. Any word on those 3"x8"s did you guys move the rest of them out to site on Thursday?
Hey we are planning on building our deck and need to ask a structual question! Our house cantalevers 1 foot over the beam. Can we just make
a
direct connection for our deck I feel like there may be a hinge point?
I hope this drawing helps
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/63ea8633.jpg)
I by no means have the answer for you.
But Just looking at that drawing I would think of two points to raise, I would bring the outer post of the deck in, towards the house 1/3 the depth of the deck. (if the edge of your deck sticks out 9 FT from the cabin then place the post 3 FT in from the Edge of the deck)
Also I would place a brace from the Post under the house, up at a 45 deg angle to the deck.
Structualy that looks stronger to me, but again I don't have any experience in the matter.
It's a little hard to see details on that picture, but I believe you are asking is it okay to attach the deck to a 2x ledger attached to the rim joist. Correct? Then build a deck off that using joist hangers on the ledger and a pier and beam setup for the outer edge of the deck.
Yes you can do that. If you put the footings and piers for the outside edge of the deck the same depth as those for the cabin there should be no problem with differential frost heave. A short cantilever of the deck at the outer edge, similar to that used on the cabin, makes it a little less critical on getting the posts in exactly the right spot. Depending on whether or not you intend to enclose the underside that may make it more difficult though. ??? It's not really a big deal as long as you size the joists large enough to support the weight of all the party guests that might congregate one day.
The cabin edge of the deck will be as stable as the cabin. Brace the outer piers to the beam and joists with 45 degree diagonal braces just as the cabin itself should be braced.
It's important to "think like water", flash properly for that ledger. Spacing the ledger out from the rim joist/wall the thickness of two heavy washers is a good idea; stagger the bolt positions in a zig zag pattern. Here's a couple of drawings that may help with that.
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/construction/fiberstrong.jpg)
(https://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q75/djmillerbucket/construction/exterwalltoporch.jpg)
Thank you Mountain Don you answered my question. We weren't sure if we were going to have to pour an extra row of piers and before we went out and dug 10 feet worth of hole and spent 200 bucks on concrete we thought we would ask. I'm gonna finish up my roof on friday and start digging some holes for this deck. So at least I will have a deck to drink beer and BBQ on this summer :)
Any updates?
Hey all. The roof is more or less
done and we have built a stoop in the front. I'm
exited to start the back deck which will double
the size of our house.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/b2fead9e.jpg)
herring bone detail of front stoop
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/6cd459ce.jpg)
Finally did a little work on the cabin. Going to try to side it before the rain starts coming down. Were ripping our own rainscreen from some 3/8th plywood we salvaged from a teardown. Its been a little tedious. Hope to get the majority of this siding done next weekend.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/5f857228.jpg)
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/abf23459.jpg)
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/a4c28971.jpg)
Hey guys sry for no posts in a long while
Some exterior pics of our siding so far
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/1e702851.jpg)
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/02bf74f5.jpg)
And we started working on an alternating step staircase. Im pretty sure there illegal but very cool if anyone wants to know how we laid it out just post a reply.
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/bf322d05.jpg)
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/e49e8ef2.jpg)
(https://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu112/bobmarlon/08a56ffb.jpg)
Cool stairs. Kind of like a ships ladder. [cool]
Where did you get the plans - if any?
Really cool stairs! I too am sure that there is no way that is code, but you cannot argue style! I have a step staircase with open toe in my cabin, and the dogs don't like it. They would hate that!
Hey Bob-
I like the stairs- very cool yet simple. I'll be doing a set in our cabin this spring-
It looks pretty straight forward but, any tips or ideas you could share would be great. Thanks and good work.
Tom
I had no plans and i went quite a different rout then a normal staircase. Normally i would use a stair calculator. Cut the stringers and put them in place then sheet them. In this case i just put the 2x12 roughly where i wanted then made my level cut so the end of the stair would fall at least an inch and a half further from where i wanted it. Then i went to the top and leveled a line from the top and plumbed down from the inch and a half mark to make my birdsmouth. Then to lay out the steps you divide the number of steps you want by your rise. Mine was 861/2 so i divided it by 13 and got 6 5/8th or something. Yiu should look for a number beetween 6 and 9. Then you need to make a story pole and the first thing you mark is your finished floor height. Then your number in my case 6 5/8th thirteen times. Then you just plum your story pole up to the the stringer in place and you get marks for the top of all your steps.
Hope that made some sense
Definey google alternating tread staircase theres some cool stuff out there