roof vent ?

Started by das fisch, November 28, 2010, 08:23:47 PM

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das fisch

so we bought a camp in the western maine mtns. finished shell, two miles back in, framed interior and we'll be completing the finish work as money permits. my first call of duty though is installing the stove pipe and insulating. the camp is kind of standard, two bedrooms, bath and living/kitchen downstairs with a half sized loft upstairs. the ceilings over the kitchen/living and loft are cathedral. we've got soffit and ridge vents with a long run between them. i've always used the formed foam roof vents (4ft lengths or so), but with such a long run between the soffits and ridge I'm exploring any other options. does the entire space between the rafters have to be covered by the vent material, or would maybe a run or two of some salvaged pvc pipe or similar work to get the air from soffit to ridge?


das fisch

i just realized this should probably be in the general section, if they can or should be moved go for it.


MountainDon

#2
You are the owner, this is a project and now you are the builder-completer, so right here sounds fine to me.  ;D
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

What will the roof insulation be? How deep are the rafters? 

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

das fisch

insulation will be fiberglass w/vapor barrier
rafters if I remember correctly are 2x10 16"oc. we deal with a pretty good snow load up there.


MountainDon

If you have 2x10 rafters the best fiberglass batts will be R-30C. That will leave a one inch space between the sheathing and the batt.
R30C will eliminate the concern about having space above the insulation for venting.
The "C" is important. see chart in the link below.

See here for another discussion




Looks like a nice place, BTW.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

das fisch

excellent, thank  you. so that would eliminate the need for the foam baffle to maintain that gap. much simpler
what does the "c" stand for?

dug

Quotewhat does the "c" stand for?

Cathedral.  Nice place!

jan nikolajsen

Those foam baffles are pretty cheap in my area. Might be alright to stick them in anyway, as batts are hard to make just right and seeing the backside after installation is not an option. But then I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy.


cabinfever

I'm getting ready to do the same thing in the spring. My rafters are 2x12 and 24" OC - would I use the same chart that was linked to? Or is it only for 16" OC applications?

And I wondered about the vapor barrier: Is this plastic stapled up before putting up the wallboard, or does the insulation have that reflective coating on one side? (I'm still pretty ignorant about insulation at this point.)

MountainDon

The chart is applicable to any width fiberglass batts.

If you can get the insulation with the kraft paper facing that is all the barrier you need, staple it to the rafters.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Texas Tornado

How about posting some pics of the inside??? I am always looking for new ideas!!  [cool]
What size is this place?

das fisch

not a whole lot to see inside, we have to finish off the entire interior. walls are framed and that's it.
a few things we will be working on immediately are:
-installing triple wall stainless stove pipe and single wall black interior to get the ashley stove in working order
-insulate for more winter use
-I've already starting building beds with some white pine peeled off our property, cutting the tenons and mortises by hand
-planned out the stair rails and for across the loft. in my work which heavily includes removing nuisance beavers and their dams there is no shortage of dried, peeled hardwood logs. so I'll be combining these with heavier peeled log uprights and rebar balusters painted with stove black paint.
-collection of moose and deer antlers along with other "specimens" ready to go in.
-propane fridge ready to be hooked up, will be running electric of a small generator as there is no power service back there (we're about 2 miles off the main road).
-seasonal road, so in a few weeks the only way in will be by snowmobile or other mode of snow travel
-we have no building permiting system in this town, just have to fill out an "intent to build" for the assessor so they can assess to the hightest value.

as we get a move on i'll post plenty.