16x36 build thread in Louisiana

Started by GoosePaint, February 27, 2017, 06:55:54 AM

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GoosePaint

This forum has helped us with our plans, so i thought it was time to post pictures of what we have so far.  Building a 16x36 with loft in Louisiana.  Plans are to leave our small house in the city, move to the cabin on our dream 10 acres and maybe build a house in 5 years or so when were in our mid 30s  Started with 2"x2" pier and post 2" up. Pouring a bracket in the sonotube to grab 3 2x10s sandwiched into a beam.  Once i lay the beams across ill have a few questions about how to form the floor.  Im in a parish that doesnt worry about what youre doing in the woods and this "shed" doesnt require anything but "looks like itll work" from buddies that are helping. How do i post pictures?
Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

ChugiakTinkerer

Welcome to the forum!  Looking forward to seeing how your project is progressing.

Picture posting works by hosting the images on a site like Photobucket or Imgur.  You can get a free account from either one.  Sites like Facebook or Google don't make direct links to your images possible straightforward, so the image hosting sites are the best solution.  I have accounts with both but find Imgur to be easier to work with.  Once you upload an image to the site, the easiest thing is to capture a link to it and paste it into the text of your message.  The BBCode format works nicely, all I do is paste in this text:

[img]http://i.imgur.com/OWxWWxe.png[/img]

to get this image:

My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story


GoosePaint

#2



footings are poured, working on the beams now

ED: GoosePaint, click on the "modify" button at top right of post to edit the message. You can see the difference in your img tag insert and mine. I got mine by a roundabout thing of going to your imgur page and copying the image location url. There must be a better way but I am not familiar with imgur.
Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

GoosePaint

Why isnt my footing image showing up?
Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

GoosePaint

#4
Pictured above are the footings, 2x2 pads, roughly 6" down, rebarred tube with brackets poured in.  3 sandwiched 2x12's going the whole 36'.  I will bolt them into the brackets level and they are already bonded with 3.5 inch deck screws.  I plan on 12" OC 2x12 treated floor joist above this. 
Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.


GoosePaint

Blueprints a friend of ours drew for a crisp hundred dollar bill.  I didnt want them but wife insisted.  Took the fun out of this

Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

GoosePaint

Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

NathanS

Quote from: GoosePaint on July 23, 2017, 04:10:30 PM
Pictured above are the footings, 2x2 pads, roughly 6" down, rebarred tube with brackets poured in.  3 sandwiched 2x12's going the whole 36'.  I will bolt them into the brackets level and they are already bonded with 3.5 inch deck screws.  I plan on 12" OC 2x12 treated floor joist above this.

Hi, looking forward to your build.

I just want to mention that screws are not the same thing as nails. Screws do not have shear strength - horizontal load will cause them to snap. Nails will bend when the wood moves. From the IRC, this is the suggested nailing schedule when creating a built up beam out of 2x material.



There are a few companies that make structural screws, and they are not cheap.

You will also want to add solid blocking between those beams to keep them from rolling over after the house is built. There are also some good examples in other builds on how people add triangular bracing to those piers to give your house more shear strength.

GoosePaint

Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.


GoosePaint

Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

GoosePaint

What am I doing wrong here, thought i had it figured out but pics wont post


Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

GoosePaint

Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

azgreg

When using imgur copy and past the Linked BBCode.



GoosePaint

Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.


GoosePaint

Thanks! I was copying then inserting it into the image tags.  Got it!

Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

GoosePaint

Next weekend I plan on framing the floor.  2x12's, 12" oc, from side to side with a rim around the edge.  seems like th easiest way to just buy 16 footers right?
Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

Don_P

Go to chapter 5 here and scroll to table 502.5(1) & (2) and check your girder sizes and spans
https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/document/toc/594/
That is where the bounce in your floor is going to come from.
Beefing up the joists will not overcome overspanned girders, it simply adds more load if you don't correct that situation. It looks like from what I'm seeing 2x8's at 16" oc will be plenty for joists and the girders need help, like piers in between the piers you have. The piers also need bracing and the bottoms of those pads should be 12" below grade. They should be as thick as the distance from pier to edge of pad, in other words you should be able to draw a line at 45 degrees from the edge of the tube to the bottom outside edge of the footing, if thinner than that the pad is more likely to crack under load as the tube punches down. Stress in most of these materials should be no shallower than a 45 degree line.

GoosePaint

This is why i love the internet.  What you are saying about the angle makes sense, and they seem too sharp now.  They definately are not 12 inches down, more like 3-4.  I have 3 2x12s sandwiched, seems overkill, but if i do a little research and end up pouring 9 more footers..... damn.  Gotta tell the wife im not framing floor this weekend. 
Building a cabin on our rural land outside Baton Rouge.  Making it up as I go along, all criticism and critique welcome.

Don_P

I hear you on the beauty of the net. I was looking for a special solenoid for the skid steer last night, $!. I ended up on a forum where a mechanic said to go to NAPA and grab a cheap generic Ford starter solenoid, he had used it to swap out a number of times, a NAPA parts guy piped up to agree, sweet!

The easy way to get that angle/ footing thickness is to measure horizontaaly from the edge of the tube to the edge of the footing. Say that is 8"... the footing should then be at least 8" thick, bingo a 45 degree angle.

Put 4 pcs of 1/2" rebar in a # pattern in the bottom third of the footing depth, the tension side to help prevent cracking under load. It should be cut 6" shorter than the footing width, rebar underground should have at least 3" of concrete coverage to keep it from corroding prematurely.

Just before the girder span tables in the codebook link above is the span tables for floor joists, you can check your sizes there while looking up the girder sizes. In the long run your wife will be happier if you take the time to give her a solid floor, it's worth the lost weekend  :).