Jim's Builders Cottage

Started by jimvandyke, June 17, 2016, 11:24:40 AM

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jimvandyke

I finally completed my version of the 14x24 builders cottage.  I actually built mine 16x24. I can't figure out how to upload photos to the site though.

ChugiakTinkerer

You need to upload the photos to an image hosting site such as PhotoBucket or Imgur, then you link to the image URL using the Insert Image button.

Look forward to seeing your build.  I'm planning on 16x28 so am very interested.
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story



jimvandyke

Here are some construction pictures




















jimvandyke

Here are some more finished pictures.

This one is the bathroom floor, done with 7500 pennies.



Solid bamboo bellawood floors


Bathroom door


Inside mini split heat pump unit


Outside heat pump unit


Loft ladder, wife didn't want it leaning on the wall


Kitchen










jimvandyke

I did all of the construction myself, except the foundation, and the shingles on the 12:12 pitch roof. If anyone has questions please ask. This was a great project. I am thinking of building another one.
It cost me about $30,000 to build. I probably could have saved a bit by keeping it at 14 feet wide, But I am happy with the end product.

Jim

ChugiakTinkerer

Wow, impressive work jimmy!

The porch ceiling detail is nice.  The bathroom floor is just WOW.  I bet the $75 in materials was the least of your concerns.  :P

Do you have any photos showing the loft better, or the open ceiling?

A 16' width looks to be a practical compromise between having more space and keeping the dimensions manageable for a solo builder.  It may just be my eyes tricking me, but is your wall framing 2x6?  it almost looks like it could be 2x8.  Oh yeah, last question...where is this gorgeous house located?

[cool]
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story

jimvandyke

I am located in NE North Carolina. The walls are 2x6 much stronger and better insulation capability plus you can go to 24" centers. Here are some pictures of the lofts. The storage loft floor is 2x8s that have a slot cut on each side with 1/2" plywood splines (I couldn't find 2" tongue and groove and splined boards are easier to make). The visible ends have a small piece of oak driven into the slot so you don't see the plywood. Going to 16" has it's issues. To support the storage loft and meet code I had to use a double TJI sandwiching a 2x8, which I skinned with 1/8 inch plywood. Same kind of issues with the main floor system which is all TJIs and Double TJI in the kitchen area to support the sleeping loft via the kitchen/bathroom wall. This added a little expense.  Turns out standard lumber can only span 14 feet, I guess that is why the plans only go to 14 feet.

Oh and I forgot, I did pay to have the insulation installed. It is typically cheaper or about the same price as doing it yourself, unless you can get a really good break  on insulation cost.

Bottom of storage loft




Storage loft view


Sleeping loft, difficult to get a good picture


Hope this helps :)

jimvandyke

Oh, by the way, I live in a Hurricane Zone II, which is 110 MPH wind code. So, The pictures of the end gable walls don't show that I had to add studs after the pictures were taken. Turns out gable walls have to be full length studs which i did know, but even with 2x6 has to be on 16" centers which i didn't know until the walls were up. That was a fun modification mid construction.

Jim


NathanS

Your place looks great.

Those jamb extensions made me wonder if the walls were 2x8 too. I think it's the width of the sill, which looks awesome.

ChugiakTinkerer

Many thanks for the info and pics.  Good solution for the 2x6 tongue & groove workaround.  I'm thinking about the same sort of loft floor and had resigned myself to routing my own T&G.  It's clear you care about a well-finished interior, everything looks perfect.  Thanks for sharing.
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story

jimvandyke

The window sills are actually made from stair tread stock. Yes they are extra wide.

azgreg

Love the window treatment. Well done.  [cool]

Don_P

My Grandad had a summer place near little Washington for years.
On dimensional lumber spans for joists, 2x12's on 16" centers can go 16'. I'm surprised you couldn't find 2x6 T&G there, it is available, we've used it for beam type floor and roof decks quite a bit although that is an elegant solution. Most of the syp T&G has come from eastern NC. Beautiful build, great job  [cool].


hpinson

It's great to see John Rabbe's Builders Cottage plans realized like this. Fantastic work.   [cool]

stricsm

How do you like the Pioneer mini-split?  I've been thinking about one for our small basement.

jimvandyke

The pioneer mini split is great. It is a 1.5 ton 22 seer unit. It was installed in January while  it was quite cold and had done a great job both heating and cooling. It was also very easy to install. All you really need is a vacuum pump.

Jim

Starvin

Looks great Jim!

I am considering a 20x24 or maybe even a 24x24 and am curious about the proportions of your 16x24. Is it possible to get a couple more photos of:

1. From storage loft looking into sleeping loft
2. From storage loft looking down towards kitchen/bathroom (if i have the orientation right?)
3. From sleeping loft looking down towards the living room area (ditto).

If you did it again, would you go bigger? 18x24 or 20x24?

Thanks in advance!

jimvandyke

I think I would go longer vs wider. Going wider adds complications and expense associated with the foundation joist sizes, collar ties, loft beams etc. At 16 feet wide my roof 12 foot roof rafters were a perfect fit with almost no waste.  I like the 16 foot width, I probably would be ok with 14.

Another note, the sleeping loft is not legal by international code unless it has a stair case. There is little room to put a stair case in this cabin. So call it a storage loft when you get your permit if you intend to use a ladder.

Here are the pictures you asked for.











Another view inside




ChugiakTinkerer

Still gorgeous!  By the way Jim, my apologies for calling you Jimmy earlier.  I guess I saw the V and tthe Y in your name and just sort of mushed them all together.  I take full responsibility for my actions, and don't  blame the bourbon in the least.  d*
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story


old_guy

Jim;

What did you use for the clear to fill in the bathroom floor?  How is it working out?

How about on the desk with the circles?  Did you fill with clear or cover with glass/plastic?

Looks great.

Starvin

thanks for the pics, looks fantastic!

jimvandyke

I notice looking around the site, is it not common to build on a block foundation? This foundation cost me about $3400 dollars to have done it has a 12 x 24 footer with 4 rows of blocks on  top.

I am just wondering, because I would like to build another one for my retirement home.

Jim

Don_P

It looks as though you did it correctly. The other examples you are referring to are non code and for good reason. To build them "correctly" an engineer would provide the design, they would not design what you see pictured most often, that is not something to copy.

jimvandyke

Old Guy,

The pennies were glued down with weldbond glue to hardibacker board. It was then grouted with black grout and sealed with 5 coats of Minwax Fast Drying High Gloss floor varnish.  I would not use hardibacker as a substrate for this project again. Hardibacker is a fibrous board. The pennies stick well but can be popped off with a little force as the fibers separate under the penny. Once all locked down with grout and sealed I think it will be fine in the end though.  The varnish is holding up very well.  One note if you do this, based on my research DO NOT use a water based varnish unless you want a blue floor.

The circles on the table is actually a stained glass project laying on the table. The building was built to be an art studio for my wife.

Jim