Mad Dog Ranch and Cabin

Started by Mad Dog, August 04, 2008, 06:39:45 PM

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Mad Dog

14x24 CABIN


Just registered with the site.  I'm waiting on the Big Enchilada plans that I ordered last Thursady, hopefully they'll be here this week. ;D

I've got a question about the post and pier foundation.  I work with heavy equipment(excavators, dozers, backhoe's, etc.), and the property I have has good gravel down at about 4 feet.  It's part of an area where glaciers receded many years ago, hence the good gravel that we mine out regularly for roads, driveways, and such.  I'm in Alaska(Matanuska Susitna Valley) by the way, I haven't had a chance to update my profile.

The question I have is if I can dig down to good gravel, tamp it down, and set the sonotubes on that.  The gravel is usually about 2-3 feet deep, once you hit 4 foot of depth.  I'm hoping to get started in the next couple weeks, so any information would be greatly appreciated.  Winter comes quick up here, so I want to get the concrete set before it starts getting colder.

Oh, by the way, I'll be building the 14x24 little house plan to start off with, and then hopefully expand from there down the road.  Thanks in advance for your help. :)
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

glenn kangiser

w* - It sounds like a good plan to me if the gravel is well drained or can be made so and does not heave in freezes.

Not in a flood area is it?
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


Mad Dog

Thanks for the reply Glenn.  Yes, it's in a 100 year flood plain, but hasn't flooded this area in 40+ years.  I have no code compliance to deal with, but wanted to put it on piers just to be safe.  My neighbor has a basement, and gets some water seepage during "break up".  My property fronts a river, but where I'm building is about 500 feet or so from it.  The bank sits at about 10 foot, and only a part of the river actually "flows" past the property at the bank.  The rest is on the middle channel, with a gravel bar on the western part of the property. 

I might get some frost heave, I might not, I guess it depends.  We bury electrical transmission lines at 4 feet, and telephone a foot above that.  They don't seem to get heave with a full basement next door, so I'm hoping that the piers will be less of a problem.  Good gravel base, with concrete on top. 

I also was wondering how deep for the sonotubes?  They tend to sell 4 footers up here, and I don't want to set them right at grade.  Would it be ok with the gravel base I described, and have the sonotubes set into the ground for 3 feet, and have 1 foot out of the ground to insert my beam brackets?  Thanks again for your help.
 
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

glenn kangiser

That would likely be better as the base could be a bit bigger to give more support.  You may want to do it in a way that will allow adjustment a bit if necessary later - undo bolts - shim etc.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Mad Dog

Thanks for the quick reply Glenn, I appreciate it. ;D  I'm so excited, I'm practically jumping out of my skin.  It's been a long time coming, and I'm finally at my desired location.  There will sure to be many more questions, I've been monitoring the forum for over a year, but finally decided to order the plans I want and move forward.  Thanks again for such a great site for information that I can glean. :)
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.


glenn kangiser

Our pleasure - we all benefit. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Mad Dog

On another note, I put my location in my profile, but it doesn't seem to show up when I post.  Any suggestions?
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

glenn kangiser

You need to put it on the personal text line and save it at the bottom when done - Don did a tutorial...

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4973.0
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Mad Dog

Quote from: glenn kangiser on August 04, 2008, 10:05:31 PM
You need to put it on the personal text line and save it at the bottom when done - Don did a tutorial...

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=4973.0

Thanks!!  Got it. [cool]
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.


glenn kangiser

The Signature line is at the bottom where you have the I - near the bottom of the same edit profile page.  Custom title (above signature on edit page) comes up where mine says The Troglodyte
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

Mad Dog

Quote from: glenn kangiser on August 04, 2008, 08:31:05 PM
That would likely be better as the base could be a bit bigger to give more support.  You may want to do it in a way that will allow adjustment a bit if necessary later - undo bolts - shim etc.

Would you be referring to having 5/8" threaded rod set into the concrete in the sonotubes, and then attaching a nut below the Simpson bracket for adjustability?  I haven't got the plans yet, so I'm just curious how you would go about achieving this?   ???
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

ScottA

 w* Mad Dog

Just curious what kind of ranch you can have in Alaska. Raindeer?

considerations

I used threaded brackets.  The rods fit into those concrete blocks you see in the back ground.  There are washers and bolts, and I could make vertical adjustments that way.  I hope, if the ground settles, I'll still be able to make adjustments....with a longer lever.


glenn kangiser

What considerations posted would work great - use a piece of 3/4 pvc with a plug on the bottom to keep the hole open or 1/2 inch would work if removed after the concrete has set but before you cant get it out, or a piece of 3/4 steel pipe - you could check 1/2 inch pipe but it may likely be too tight.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


Mad Dog

#14
Quote from: ScottA on August 05, 2008, 03:08:05 PM
w* Mad Dog

Just curious what kind of ranch you can have in Alaska. Raindeer?

Too funny Scott. :D  Although there is a place down the road that is a functioning reindeer farm.  I've got horses, chickens, maybe a couple alpaca in the next couple weeks.  Plan on getting some cattle, after the cabin is built for meat/milk, among other things. d*
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

Mad Dog

Quote from: considerations on August 05, 2008, 04:56:30 PM
I used threaded brackets.  The rods fit into those concrete blocks you see in the back ground.  There are washers and bolts, and I could make vertical adjustments that way.  I hope, if the ground settles, I'll still be able to make adjustments....with a longer lever.



Thanks!  That's what I was figuring, just needed to know how that was done, since I'm pouring concrete.  Glenn followed up your post with what I need to do to get them in.
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

Mad Dog

Quote from: glenn kangiser on August 05, 2008, 07:56:02 PM
What considerations posted would work great - use a piece of 3/4 pvc with a plug on the bottom to keep the hole open or 1/2 inch would work if removed after the concrete has set but before you cant get it out, or a piece of 3/4 steel pipe - you could check 1/2 inch pipe but it may likely be too tight.

Thanks Glenn, I've got it now.  [cool]  Basically pour the sonotubes, and set the piece of pvc/steel pipe in the concrete.  Once it dries, I can then just set those brackets in place.  No need to seal them in there, just drop them in, and set the beams on top? 
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

glenn kangiser

Yes - the beams will hold them from turning then the nut can be adjusted to fine tune height.  Be sure to line centers with a string though as there is not much room for error that way.  Possibly extend the pipes - drill a couple 1/8 holes and nail them to a 2x4 to hold in line for pouring the footing then when set cut the pipes at the top of the concrete.

It is always easier to have things firmly fastened when pouring concrete - if not it seems there are always alignment problems.

Duct tape may plug the pipe ends fine.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

akemt

Welcome from another Alaskan!  Not that I'm anywhere near you living down in Southeast.  Best wishes on your build!
Catherine

Stay-at-home, homeschooling mother of 6 in "nowhere" Alaska

Mad Dog

Quote from: akemt on August 06, 2008, 11:27:28 AM
Welcome from another Alaskan!  Not that I'm anywhere near you living down in Southeast.  Best wishes on your build!

Thanks for the welcome fellow Alaskan.  It feels like we've been having your normal summer weather here this year.  Sunny out today though. ;D
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.


Mad Dog

Quote from: glenn kangiser on August 06, 2008, 10:56:35 AM
Yes - the beams will hold them from turning then the nut can be adjusted to fine tune height.  Be sure to line centers with a string though as there is not much room for error that way.  Possibly extend the pipes - drill a couple 1/8 holes and nail them to a 2x4 to hold in line for pouring the footing then when set cut the pipes at the top of the concrete.

It is always easier to have things firmly fastened when pouring concrete - if not it seems there are always alignment problems.

Duct tape may plug the pipe ends fine.

Thanks, got my plans in the mail yesterday.  Time to move forward.
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

akdreamin

Best of luck on your project.

My building site was gravel, from the surface down at least 35' to the bottom of my test hole.  Great for building, but awful for trying to get grass growing.  I built my house with a slab on grade foundation.  My engineer said that properly compacted, settlement would be less than 1/2".  My place is in the hundred year flood plain, so I added a foot and a half of gravel to get above the floodplain elevation.  I have a small mortgage on my place, so it was nice to avoid flood insurance.  If you are working with a bank, you might want to consider seeing if you can get your floor above the floodplain elevation.

Mad Dog

Quote from: akdreamin on August 06, 2008, 02:53:05 PM
Best of luck on your project.

My building site was gravel, from the surface down at least 35' to the bottom of my test hole.  Great for building, but awful for trying to get grass growing.  I built my house with a slab on grade foundation.  My engineer said that properly compacted, settlement would be less than 1/2".  My place is in the hundred year flood plain, so I added a foot and a half of gravel to get above the floodplain elevation.  I have a small mortgage on my place, so it was nice to avoid flood insurance.  If you are working with a bank, you might want to consider seeing if you can get your floor above the floodplain elevation.

Thanks for the info.  Fortunately for me, I'm building out of pocket, so the bankers will have no say in the project. ;)  According to my surveyor, I'll be good at the height I'm setting the sonotubes and beams.  Good info to have, flood insurance isn't exactly cheap. d*
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

Mad Dog

#23
Just wanted to post up a couple pics I took today.  A couple are of the view I'll have from the cabin, and the other is looking down where I'll be putting in the driveway.

Also got the power augur out and drilled down to gravel at about 3 1/2 feet.  Just wanted to ask if it's ok to fill in with 6"-12" of gravel on top of that, and then set in the sonotube?  Is it ok to have the sonotube 1 1/2 feet out of the ground with 2 1/2 feet set in the ground on that gravel, or should I make sure it's in the ground a full 3 feet?  Thanks. ;D   

Guess I'm going to have to wait on the pics until I can figure out how to post them.  The setup here is a little different than some forums I'm used to.  Hit insert image, and you can usually browse the pics on your computer to insert.  Doesn't seem to do that here.  Any help? ???
I refuse to tiptoe through life, only to arrive safely at death.

MarkAndDebbie