30 x 57 in Arkansas

Started by n74tg, December 14, 2007, 10:32:12 AM

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Redoverfarm

The first sheet on each side is the most important.  After that it is just one after the other.  I use a blocked out string line at the bottom edge.  If it fits into the channel and is on the string line you are good to go. Every so often pull your tape at the top and bottom to make sure you are running correctly at a 90 deg.  If it starts to wonder a little you can "tweak" the sheet (in or out) to bring it back in line. 

glenn kangiser

If not windy I like to just stitch the sheets together with only the first one fastened to the purlins.- maybe 3 or 4 then adjust at the eaves or string line and then fasten them to the purlins - -
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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n74tg

Glenn:
Describe this stitching process a little more...thanks
My house building blog:

http://n74tg.blogspot.com/

glenn kangiser


Sent PM - copied here. gk

Hi Tony -- yep - I've been out of town a lot and much more to come - working on apts.

I first square and line up the first sheet and screw it down to the purlins.

Stitching is the screws theat fasten sheet to sheet only in the top edge of the first overlapping rib.  Our building had a stitch screw every 4 feet along that edge.  The second - third  maybe fourth sheet were stitched only with the bottoms lined up perfect at the edges.  We didn't worry about racking too much at this point (sheets sliding down the slope slightly but edges still together.

Steeper pitches are harder but it looks like you have a pretty low pitched roof.

After you havethe amount of sheets together that you can handle - with only the edges stitched except the first one, you measure the bottom of the sheet back to the eave purlin.  If it is an inch too far down you push it back up at this point and it will then make everything line up well without the jagged looking edge if you get a bit out of square doing one sheet at a time. Screw it down to the purlin then put enough purlin screws in to hold the rest in place

Line up the next sheet perfect with that one and stitch it to the fastened one then stitch the next amount of sheets you can hnadle and repeat until finished.

I hope that is clear - if not I will check in again tonight and answer your questions.

Glenn
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

MelanieM

Do you have a floor plan?  I'd love to see how you utilized the space.

Thanks,
Melanie


n74tg

Hi Mel:

Sorry it took so long to respond

My house building blog:

http://n74tg.blogspot.com/

n74tg

The Hardie plank siding is finished on two walls.  The paint color on the 2nd pic is more like the real thing.



My house building blog:

http://n74tg.blogspot.com/

Redoverfarm

#57
Looking good. A friend of mine used the same color for his cabin. Prepainted?


n74tg

Since the weather is lousy with rain, and all the walkboards are too slick to walk on, I guess I'll update the project status.

The final wall to be sided is about half finished.  



That green paint on the corner trim board is just primer, not the final color that it will be.  

That 4x4 column will be encased in something better looking later.  I don't know just what yet, but it won't be staying looking like that.

Don't ask how I did this, but somehow the laps on the porch siding line up with the laps on the side wall.  Until I got the first porch siding piece installed I had worried that they wouldn't and would be noticeably different; but I got lucky.

Pic 2 is what I used to push the scaffold top away from the wall so I could slide in the siding for nailing.



You can see a roughly 2" gap at the wall joint so the siding could be installed.  After I get the next row of siding in I will untie the rope and release the scaffold to lay back on top of the siding.  Then I will likely have to move this "pry-bar" down to another scaffold to install the siding there.  All this stuff is made out of 2x4 and the bolts are all 3/8 diameter.  That vertical 2x4 in the pry bar is about 4' long.  I need every inch of it's length to get enough mechanical advantage to push this whole rig away from the wall.  If I were actually standing on the walkboard (adding my body weight to the push) then this board would need to be about six feet long; and in some places it would then hit the walkboard.





My house building blog:

http://n74tg.blogspot.com/


glenn kangiser

Thanks for the update, Tony.  It's looking good.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

n74tg

North Wall Finished

Finally, some good weather, north wall siding, trim, paint is finished.



More pics and details in the blog.
My house building blog:

http://n74tg.blogspot.com/

Sassy

You place is really looking nice!
http://glennkathystroglodytecabin.blogspot.com/

You will know the truth & the truth will set you free