"The Barn"

Texas Tornado · March 02, 2011, 03:33:52 PM

w00t!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Talked to the Fire Marshall and the County Commish..........No Permits required for anything I want to build!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So I think real soon I will take a run up and start building a storage/cabin!
Now if only I can get hubby to quit thinking 1,400 plus feet is small

And a composting toilet is ok as well!!!
TT

Texas Tornado · March 05, 2011, 09:39:18 PM

OK what I am wanting to build is a sorta storage/cabin....
I am thinking 14X32 but also leaving a side with double windows that can be converted to a doorway when I build a second building (same size) attached to the first...I like the Gambrel roofs but am not wanting it tall enough for a second story...It can have a modified slant roof for the second building..
At issue is I hate Math and trying to wrap my head around numbers just gives me a headache

so anyone willing to help me design the roof angles it will be appreciated!

Did I mention I hate ladders?

Current meds leaves me with vertigo

I have looked for plans on gambrel roofs but they are all to big (none for 14 wide and they are 2 stories high!)
TT

March 05, 2011, 10:17:49 PM

I'm puzzled or missing something I guess. It seems to me that one of the reasons for a gambrel roof is to have an upper floor with headroom greater than what is provided by a gable or hip style roof.

Either that or a tall ceiling. The side walls could be made shorter to make the overall structure less tall, but then the windows you want in the sidewall would be a problem.

What am I not seeing?

MountainDon · March 05, 2011, 10:38:40 PM

Gambrel article

Texas Tornado · March 05, 2011, 11:12:29 PM

Thank You for the article MountainDon!
The visual appeal of the gambrel is what I am wanting just not the height.
I am wanting to build with the walls at max height 8 feet (2x6x8).. I want a open ceiling no rafters seen (like a cathedral). A second floor to me is useless and would never be used...Messed up knees and spine prevent climbing stairs.
TT

Like this one!
http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10342.0

May 30, 2012, 06:12:06 AM

Well I changed my mind on the size and going with a 20X20, hubby dug the holes and we just got the post placed in the holes (They are not firmed into place yet). As soon as I can remember my password for the picassa I will upload them (Unless I can get Glenn to post them for me

)
TT

Texas Tornado · May 30, 2012, 07:44:00 AM

Post are in the ground 3 foot!

Texas Tornado · May 30, 2012, 07:47:51 AM

Free Door that I got!

First post going in:

Texas Tornado · July 22, 2012, 07:43:25 PM

Finaly bit the bullet and decided to just buy a cabin to place there!
This is a 12X40. I do plan on adding on to it. I have a few concerns and not to sure how to deal with them so I welcome some suggestions.
#1 Interior height (Hubby is 6') Pic of Mom to show height she is 5'6"......
#2 Thickness of the wall
#3 How would I join an additional 10' to the right wall ceiling.
Here are the pictures...
https://s745.photobucket.com/albums/xx96/weetreebonsai/Album%202/
TT

July 22, 2012, 07:55:16 PM

The Front

Texas Tornado · July 22, 2012, 07:56:00 PM

The door side

Texas Tornado · July 22, 2012, 07:57:48 PM

The Long side

MountainDon · July 22, 2012, 07:58:58 PM

Adequately insulating a building like that is one of my primary concerns. Insulating the roof if the building is finished with a loft space can be especially difficult.

Texas Tornado · July 22, 2012, 08:15:32 PM

Loft will not be used and considering the height inside may require removing the loft sections...

July 22, 2012, 08:21:50 PM

Inside shots:

Mom at the door:

At the wall:

Under loft:

Texas Tornado · July 22, 2012, 08:25:46 PM

Another area I am concerned about is the lack of tornado straps and how to add them in $:-\$
FYI Mom is very happy that we have gotten to this stage...We will be under 10 miles from them...

MountainDon · July 22, 2012, 08:26:33 PM

Make certain that loft sctions are not required to tie the walls together.

That still leaves the question of how to insulate the walls and roof. I know parts of TX does not have too much in the way of cold temperatures to deal with but summers are hot. What R-value of insulation in roof and walls would you want?

Texas Tornado · July 22, 2012, 08:40:03 PM

MountainDon this is in Oklahoma and yes it gets cold there so what would you suggest?

MountainDon · July 23, 2012, 12:34:42 AM

We briefly considered purchasing a similar building when we were planning a cabin back in 2006. I wanted R19 or so for walls and at least R30 for ceiling/roof. (that has resulted in a cozy cabin with an R45 ceiling) The 2x4 framing of most of those building types that I've seen, makes it difficult without getting into spray foams; even then the roof comes up deficient, IMO. 3 1/2 inches with R6 per inch is R21. That is now the recommended minimum in some areas for walls. OK is R20 for walls and R38 for ceiling. Insulating in the roof framing would make that like a cathedral ceiling.

http://reca-codes.org/codes2012/Oklahoma.pdf

I don't see any way to fit a higher R value into the roof framing without considerable work. Maybe it's just me but to me, it seems like too much work. But then I was certain I could build a 16x30 shell for less, and with less effort in retro-fitting, than what the building vendors were selling, with the insulation requirements I had self imposed on the project.

In a scratch built structure one has the option of adding a layer or two of rigid foam sheets to the exterior before applying the final sheathing and/or siding. Ditto on the roof. With a prefabbed building that does not make any sense as the exteriors come paneled and shingled.

Those are the main problems I see with trying to make a cabin out of what was originally designed as a utility building. It's just my way of looking at the issue. My size may not fit all. I present it as food for thought before taking the leap. I do realize that a compromise must be achieved many times.

All the concerns about insulation become even more important if the building is to become a full time residence. My experience comes from living in locations where daily temperatures reach into the high 90's as well as locations where the daily temperatures were in the 20's and down into the minus 20's and even colder.

Texas Tornado · July 25, 2012, 06:02:18 AM

It is already bought.
Suggestions on how to improve it for what we need.
TT

July 30, 2012, 09:02:57 AM

Heading to work now but I would have to agree with Don, that the loft sections are used to hold the sides together. You may be able to raise them a ways but I would be sure the side gambrel roof joists are adequately attached to the walls possibly by adding brackets if necessary.

Will try to have another look tonight.

glenn kangiser · July 30, 2012, 10:23:17 PM

TT, if you are going to sheetrock, you could add an inch of rigid foam insulation under it by just using longer screws to sandwich it in. You may want to tape the seams for a vapor barrier on the inside if they are not already tight.

This would cut a couple inches from your living space but you would gain R5 for the inch and could use cheaper fiberglass insulation in the cavities. Don't overstuff the cavities with thicker insulation as it will cut down the R value. Having the rigid insulation over the studs will also gain you even more over having the wood against the back of the sheetrock. Wood has a much lower R value.

Texas Tornado · July 31, 2012, 10:39:34 AM

Quote from: glenn kangiser on July 30, 2012, 10:23:17 PM
TT, if you are going to sheetrock, you could add an inch of rigid foam insulation under it by just using longer screws to sandwich it in. You may want to tape the seams for a vapor barrier on the inside if they are not already tight.

This would cut a couple inches from your living space but you would gain R5 for the inch and could use cheaper fiberglass insulation in the cavities. Don't overstuff the cavities with thicker insulation as it will cut down the R value. Having the rigid insulation over the studs will also gain you even more over having the wood against the back of the sheetrock. Wood has a much lower R value.

Can you explain what that is?
Is this done on the inside before putting in the insulation?

MountainDon · July 31, 2012, 11:23:50 AM

Fiberglass insulation in the stud wall cavities. Rigid XPS foam 4x8 sheets installed over the studs and f-glass insulation; secured to the studs. The XPS foam is a water vapor barrier. Taping the seams seals those points to complete the tightness of the building. Then drywall is applied over that. That works for just about everywhere except for where it is hot and humid and the interior is air conditioned.

Some foam sheets have T&G edges that make the sealing between panel edges very good. There are special foam caulks/glues/sealants that can be used in the edge joint as well. Many regular caulks/sealers with dissolve foam.

muldoon · July 31, 2012, 11:43:54 AM

You might want to reconsider that vapor barrier depending on climate. As your user name implies you are Texan, you may likely have a hot humid climate where vapor barrier on the interior side can lead to issues as condensation can build up in the wall cavities and be conducive for mold and or rot. You have to build for your environment.

This has been discussed a time or two on here before and you can probably follow some of the links in this thread to get more information.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10062.msg129030

Other than that, what is the intended purpose of this barn? A camping place for weekend use or full time dwelling?