An accessory building

Started by Don_P, March 22, 2017, 07:41:44 PM

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Don_P

I drew this a few years ago. Our state has a 256 sf max exempt accessory structure rule. This has a footprint 12'x20'. It just happens to have 4' overhangs  ;). Think about what a nearly balanced rafter does to thrust;

A little more than a year ago the power company cleared some pines near the line so I sawed them up and they have been drying. Last week I planed them and began notching and fitting. I've been thinking of making some for sale locally. I got the first bent pretty close to where I want it by this evening, the other two should fit up tomorrow. Then on to the side brace panels.

MushCreek

I need something just like that for a parking structure- When can you start?
Jay

I'm not poor- I'm financially underpowered.


Don_P

LOL, I'm well underway  :D
That is further afield than I was thinking but the bare frame will break down and fit on a trailer, interesting idea.

Nothing is longer than 12', total frame weight looks like around 4,000 lbs. The rest can be sourced locally.


Rys

Love it! Have just the spot....

Adam Roby

Hmmm... giving me ideas for my Tractor Barn too... 


NathanS

Really cool.. gets the imagination going.

Those tie straps put my clamps to shame, I am sure those are a necessity to timber framing. Something I really can't wait to try doing. Project that size you could do on your own I'm thinking.

Are you going to fully assemble this one, have a plan for it?

Don_P

I'm planning on lightly assembling it as an open sided, purlin roofed shelter at the local building supply until it sells then take it apart and move it to its final destination and trick it out if they want walls, sheathed roof, or whatever.

The plan... I don't think I'll post it but pm me and I'll send the skp for personal use.

I think for the next one that is going to be an open shelter I'll use the lighter colored (MCQ?) treated 6x6's for the posts and then transition to untreated from there.

I'm doing it on my own, dry pine in 6x6 and 6x8 isn't bad weightwise. I was easily sliding the bents around on top of each other this afternoon. My other shoulder is about done so I'm sticking to light timbers until I quit being Cleopatra and go in. 6x is hard to get pegs in roomwise, I'll probably use timber screws and lags where I can hide them. You might be able to tell, I had to double up or add pieces of old straps to make these 20' ratchet straps long enough to wrap around as I fitted the parts together. For working in 6x you'll need a 1-1/2" mortising chisel, 6x uses 1-1/2" mortise and tenon, 8x uses 2". The blade on your framing square is 1-1/2" the body is 2" wide. When checking a mortise you can use the blade or body as a feeler gauge. In 5.5" stock that means the body sits flush from the base of the tennon to the face of the timber, the blade should be able to check all around the tennon edges... all these tools evolved together. A 7-1/4" saw is good for tenons, an 8-1/4 will go through a 6x in 2 passes. Of course a 16" saw and chain mortiser make life much easier if you get into it.

MushCreek

I'd be interested in the drawings as well. I really do plan on something very similar for a car port. I was thinking of using Timberlinx as a lazy man's timber frame option, as I need to get it built in a timely manner. There are a lot of backyard saw mills around here that I could get my timbers from.
Jay

I'm not poor- I'm financially underpowered.

Don_P

I was thinking I would darn near trade you for some timbers from down there, you're down in the yellow pines which would work better for this. I think Timberlinx would work better on these size timbers as well. Sounds like we need to start a LLC  :D PM me your e's


hpinson

Damn, I could do that.  :)   

And the Timberlinx. What an inspiration.