Universal 20' 2-story in Colorado - "Scavenger"

[Jonathan]

OK, so here's the scoop... earlier in 2007 my wife and I decided that we wanted to build our own house.  I was inspired while watching this video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1932521076528625515&q=country+living&pr=goog-sl (skip the first 9 minutes to get past most of the religious stuff).  In this video a guy claims to have built a 2-story house for $12k (I think).  EVERYONE should watch this video just for the basic water and electrical generation information.

Anyway, according to our priorities, our house must meet the following critieria:

1.  Just big enough to meet our needs - no bigger (family of 6... heading toward 8, Lord willing!).
2.  Use only value oriented materials (not fancy; just reliable, comfortable shelter)
3.  Be completely "off-grid" (solar/wind generation, well/septic, geothermal heating/cooling)
4.  Be as cheaply built as possible (efficient design/construction)
5.  Be paid for completely in cash - no borrowing

I have a copy of Chief Architect, so I have been messing around with trying to come up with the most efficient design in a size just big enough for our family.  Last week I came across CountryPlans and saw that the Universal 20' wide 2-story plan pretty much accomplished everything I needed in a size apropriate for our family!  Additionally, to have a forum of support from people who are experienced owner-builders is a HUGE plus.  So we have decided to work toward building this plan.

I have not yet decided on the length.  I'm inclined to split the difference between the plan and JimmyC's house - 36'.  I want to keep it on a 4' grid floorplan to maximize material use and limit waste.  Additionally, I am planning on going with 4x6 exterior walls on 24" centers.  There is a lot of good information on value oriented framing here: http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/info/documents/pdfs/26449.pdf (Thanks, JimQPublic!).

Here is where it get's interesting... we have decided to try to get all of our materials for free... or close (with a few major exceptions).  We are going to make a complete list of materials, and systematically we are going to dumpster-dive, garage sale, online ads, etc.  Just like a "Scavenger Hunt"!  We don't care if it is used, or a remnant, as long as it is in solid condition and usable.  We don't even care it it matches.  We might pick up a box of hardwood flooring here, and another there, and as long as they are the same thickness we will make a completely patchwork floor.  Our faucets and towel racks don't have to be the same color.  Even our cabinets might be each different (just tied together with a singular counter top)!  It will be a patchwork house - QUALITY materials of various textures... not a bunch of junk nailed together.

We figure this will take us several years (3-5?) to get all of the materials.  In the meantime we are saving up to buy land, so we've got time.  If we do this right, we might have all of our materials at the same time we have enough money to buy land and pay for permits/foundation.

Anyway, I'll keep you updated in this thread as we start to find FREE stuff to check off our "Scavenger Hunt" list.

Jonathan

PS - I'll be getting my plans ordered as soon as possible.

[glenn kangiser]

Quite a challenge.  Should be interesting.

Note that in a code/inspected area, building officials will require new stamped lumber - gov needs it's cut , so you may need to find a location with no inspections or permits required to accomplish this.

[wingam00]

I too am a "Scavenger". One thing about scavenging is "Where to store all the STUFF?"   I am building a cabin for my wife so I need STUFF to build and of course to save $$$$. I have one room completely filled with STUFF almost to the ceiling. Have STUFF under the beds, in 3 closest, STUFF in the living room, which no one lives in, and I have STUFF store at by brothers place. (Which he has used some of my STUFF to make his stuff with. That is ok with me for 2 reasons, first it pays for using his place to store and give me more room to get more STUFF.

[glenn kangiser]

Good way to look at it.  

I have stuff that I have saved for 20 years or more that I still find a place for.  I guess I have an acre or so at the other place.  Working on it here, but have to make a flat spot on the mountain every time I want to add something major to the collection. :-/

[Preston]

Jonathan,
Try to find a builder in your area that is building lots of houses.  If you talk to them, they'll more than likely turn the other way while you dig through their trash.  The less they have to Haul the better for them.  Just a thought...

[Jonathan]

Thanks for the tip.  I'll talk to some local builders and try to find out when their dumpsters get emptied.  I've been thinking about the storage dillema lately... I wonder how big a two-story house looks when all of the parts are in a pile...?

[Jonathan]

Before I can make a specific materials list I have to know what I'm building.  So I've been working on the dimensions/floor plan lately.  I want to share these pictures with y'all to get your feedback.  Here is some of the thinking behind the plan:

Widened to 24', shortened to 32' (768 sq. ft. footprint).  I did this in order to put the home on a 4' grid, and it just happens to also be an 8' grid (convenient).  I went with 24' wide to squeeze in a straight stairway.  The stairway is somewhat steep (8 3/8" rise and 9" tread), but doable.  I shortened the upstairs side walls to 4'.  The roof is a 12/12.  The master bedroom has a cathedral ceiling and a private stairway up to an open loft.  This will end up being my office.

[Jonathan]

And the second floor...

[Jonathan]

And this is a rough idea of the loft (with the 2nd floor reference in red):

[Preston]

Jonathan, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong: I believe that the plans are designed so the length can be adjusted without any engineering changes, however the width will require adjustments as well as more structural support and also inspection I would guess :-/  Hopefully someone more engineerial brainy will chime in...

[Jonathan]

Jonathan, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong: I believe that the plans are designed so the length can be adjusted without any engineering changes, however the width will require adjustments as well as more structural support and also inspection I would guess :-/  Hopefully someone more engineerial brainy will chime in...

I was planning on going with full span engineered I-beam supports.  I have read somewhere, though, that you can only do this on a post foundation...?  I'm a novice, so if anyone has specific information please chime in!

[MountainDon]

Preston has a point. If you are working from a set of existing plans be careful about widening. Floor and ceiling joists as well as rafters may have to be increased in size, or interior support beams used. Adding length is usually not a problem.

If you are working from a clean piece of paper, just be certain your spans are properly supported.  

I don't see any closets in the bedrooms.  ??  :-/ :-?

[Jonathan]

I'm thinking that I might have to enlist a draftsman to do our plans from scratch... perhaps my plans vary too much from the universal 20' two-story.

We weren't planning on having any closets.  Instead we will use wardrobes/armiores (sp?).  We live a minimalist lifestyle, so we really don't need a lot of storage.  Yeah, yeah, yeah... I know... "resale".  Well, when we build this house it will probably be located on an 800 acre Wisconsin farm that has been in my wife's family for 5 generations.  Even if we decide not to live there we will just rent it out.

There might be issues with code as far as having "bedrooms" without a closet, but we'll just call them offices - might help on the taxes also.

PS - I've been thinking also of a utility/furnace closet.  In my mind I'm thinking we'll have a full basement for furnace and hot water.  If we don't go with a basement, then I'll have to come up with something else.

[Preston]

I've seen some new homes in the Kansas City area being built with ALL walk-in closets.  The entrance is at a 45 degree angle and it allows the room to still feel open!  Closets=A must.  

I recall John saying something about 20' being ideal for engineered i-beams.  The longest I-beams I've ever seen were 24'.

[Redoverfarm]

Johnathan sounds like a good project but realisticly you had better extend your completion date somewhat. It will probably take that much  time you have set aside to come up with all the materials that you will need. About the materials. You mentioned making a material list which is good but an additional thought is to "grab everything you can now" and then sort through it later. If you go to specifics it will take longer. You can always discard ( But I never do) what you don't need later.  While you are scavaging try to pick up some used roof tin. Not for the house but to use to cover your lumber as the standard blue grade utility tarp will not hold up (experience talking because I lost 3/4 of a truck of wormy chestnut lumber in that manner). Good luck and hope you keep in contact with   the progress

[Jonathan]

I've seen some new homes in the Kansas City area being built with ALL walk-in closets.  The entrance is at a 45 degree angle and it allows the room to still feel open!  Closets=A must.  

I recall John saying something about 20' being ideal for engineered i-beams.  The longest I-beams I've ever seen were 24'.

I think I read that 14" I-beams will span 24'.  I like this idea to keep the living/dining rooms open.  Perhaps 20' span is more cost effective (shorter I-beams).

[Jonathan]

OK... because I'm the type of person who believes in taking advice (especially if it comes in a flood)... here is a revised second floor plan with closets (including master walk-in).  Because the outside walls slope down to 4', I was trying to keep my kids' bunk beds on the center wall (and avoid closet doors).  However, I think this layout allows for bunkbeds.

Is this better?

Jonathan

[Preston]

Hey Jonathan,
thought I would share something funny with you!  :::::

In the last 96 hours, I have found a brand new(but opened) 12x30 Blue Tarp, 6 rolls of Insulation(Unopened), and a case(4) of unopened furnace air filters!

the tarp and insulation both on the highway, different places different highways

the air filters in a trash dumpster hanging half way out by a shopping center.

It may not be as difficult as you have been thinking, especially since this stuff has come into my hands without having to look for it!

[Sassy]

Good for you!  8-)

[Jonathan]

It's been a year since I decided to go down this path.  I have since nearly completed my design (it has changed a lot), and I'm currently looking for a draftsman to draw up my plans.  The design is a 24' square 1.5 story (60" outside walls upstairs) with a full basement and 9/12 roof pitch.  I am hoping to purchase the land this November, and be permitted and read to build by the end of May.

Here's my question:  Does anyone have a SIMPLE (yet thorough) checklist of construction steps in the order in which they need to be completed?  It would exceptionally handy if each step included a list of materials (in general) needed to accomplish that step.  I'm trying to put together a construction schedule and estimate my materials cost.

I've read a couple books on home building, and quite frankly I feel like I'm way over my head.  However, a long time ago I told myself that if it can be done, I can do it -- it just might take me longer, and I'll probably make mistakes along the way.

I'm still planning on scavenging as much materials as possible.  My wife and I are talking about disassembling old pallets and using the boards on our inside walls instead of drywall.  I should be able to get unlimited old broken pallets.  Then it will just be a matter of removing the nails and sorting the boards based upon width and thickness.

PS - How can I upload pictures of my design?

[MountainDon]

I only have time to touch on your question about using images in posts. Click on the following link.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3512.0

[glenn kangiser]

Don's tutorial on the design and I would suggest going through several of the owner builder projects posted here and make notes along the way starting with foundation, floors, walls roof and finish as you find them occurring.

[Jonathan]

I only have time to touch on your question about using images in posts. Click on the following link.

http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=3512.0

Thanks for the info!  I've linked the pictures below.

My wife and I have decided to live as simply as possible.  Here is a list of our criteria which guided our design process:

1.  Cash only - no loans
2.  In the spirit of "Walden" as simple as possible
3.  As small as can adequately accomodate our family of six (I have 4 girls).
4.  Completely "off grid" -- no pipes or wires from the outside world
5.  As efficient construction as possible (built on 4' grid, simple corners, simple roof, 24' engineered joists 24" OC, no interior load bearing walls)
6.  As energy efficient as possible (2x6 exterior walls with 1" hard foam)
7.  All energy needs provided through renewable sources of "freely harvested" energy (wood, solar)

I decided that the most inexpensive design would be a 24' square (I opted to diverge from the rectangular plan primarily because I wanted a straight staircase).  The upstairs walls will be halved 10' 2x6s, so the side walls will be about 63" in height.  I'm planning on building the kids' bunk beds into the wall.

At the center of my design is a Kitchen Queen wood cookstove (http://www.kitchenqueenstoves.com/kitchenqueenstoves/index.html) that will heat the house, cook the food, and heat the water.  There are no ducts or fans in my heating system.  Directly above the centrally located wood cookstove is a "convection chamber" through which the stovepipe passes.  This chamber is spaced between the 24" OC joists and several feet long.  On the second floor there will be large vents and baffles by which the heat is directed into each of the two bedrooms near the ceiling.  On the outside walls there will be passive floor vents (equal in area to the convection chamber vents) to return cold air to the downstairs.  This form of heating also is most efficient in a square design with the stove centrally located.

The second floor ceiling will also be covered in wood salvaged from discarded pallets, but the first floor ceiling will have no covering -- just open joists painted in a light color to give a more spacious feel to the ceiling height.

In the summertime hot water will be provided by a solar water system located on the front porch roof (south-facing) next to the solar electric panels.  Our electrical needs will be only minimal -- we even wash our clothes with a hand washer.  The big draws will be the well pump, fridge/freezer, and whole-house fan locate in the upstairs hallway to cool the house in summertime.  I'd love to find a sterling engine with which to generate electricity from the wood cookstove in the winter.  Unfortunately that technology has not yet been refined enough to be commercially feasible.

[glenn kangiser]

Nice job on the pix.  You can add a line (enter) between them in your posting to space them and make them easier to view.

[Jonathan]

Nice job on the pix.  You can add a line (enter) between them in your posting to space them and make them easier to view.

Done!  Thanks!