Concrete Pier Foundation

[maine_little_cabin]

Hello all,
I have been reading this site for a while now but finally decided to join.

I have been interested in small homes for years and have designed numerous plans over the years. I have bought all the "Little House" books you can think of, and basically drove my wife crazy for years now.

Well we finally purchased 4.3 acres of land in central maine and are ready to start.

My plan is for a 16x32 ft 1 1/2 story, 2 bedroom house that i drew in Auto CAD.

I want to use post and pier foundation for cost and ease of construction. Also our lot is heavily wooded and i want to cut down as little trees as possible.

Everyone i work with thinks i'm crazy and should just pay for a basement or just buy a modular?

I don't think they understand the satisfaction of building the entire home by youself, plus the ecomonic savings.

Any thoughts on cold weather pier foundations as the frost line is 48" and i would like a little crawl space, so i am looking at 96" collums.

[railroad_bob]

Hi, I joined recently also. Would like to say that this is a common foundation type here in Alaska, altho we have a much deeper frost line.
I checked into this a few years ago for a timber frame house, and was given this scenario by a local (Homer, AK) contractor with a good reputation and years of experience.
His method is to survey the pier locations, auger a large hole (12" IIRC), build a rebar cage to insert in a sonotube (8-10" Dia.)(length depending on height above ground), insert the sonotube in the hole, and fill with concrete. While filling, jig the tube up and down to allow some concrete to escape from the bottom of the tube, filling the botom of the hole with a bell-shape. This makes something of a footer at the bottom.
The tops of the tubes are brought to a consistent height using a rotating laser level. Insert a J shaped anchor bolt and smooth the top. Use a level on the sides to keep the tubes vertical, and a string line to keep the row straight.
Last step is to backfill and compact the cavity around the tube.

Here in Alaska, a lot of folks wrap the tube with plastic before backfilling. This is to help prevent freeze/thaw cycles in the ground from heaving the posts.

The anchor bolts can be used to attach clips that hold horizontal beams above each row, then floor joists crossing the beams.

This is one method, other folks may have others to share, or clarification about something I didn't think of.

HTH, Bob

[Jared]

I looked at Google for sonotubes but couldn't find anything that sold them. Where can I find a site that will tell me prices?
Jared

[bartholomew]

Sonotubes here are CDN$7.50 for 8" and CDN$10 for 10" diameter (8' length).

[John Raabe]

Thanks Bob for that step by step tutorial. Sonotubes are pretty universally available from real lumber yards. Make a local call for prices.

[Amanda_931]

Around here, you may not see genuine sonotubes^tm, but you can get 4' (8"in diameter, IIRC) lookalikes at the big box places under the quickcrete name.

I knew I'd looked these up before:

http://www.sonoco.com/TopNav/PRODUCTS+and+SERVICES/engineered+carriers+and+paper/tubes+and+cores/sonotube+fibre+forms.htm

or, with a flash intro:

http://www.sonotube.info/

the name is because it is or was part of Sonoco oil.  Hmmm, I had a cousin who retired from there.  Long enough that he probably doesn't even know anybody still there.

[JRR]

Methinks there is no (or little) connection between Sunoco Oil and Sonoco Products.  "Sun Oil" was the origin of one, and "Southern Novelty Company" the origin of the other corporate name.

I have been employed (menially) by both.

[Okie_Bob]

A year or so back, Jonsay from Down Under presented a design change you might want to explore. Instead of the J bolt in the top of the pier, he uses a 1" threaded bolt. He then used a U shaped metal clip (for lack of a proper name). A 4" square tubing was layed into the U clip all around the foundation and the mudsill was bolted to the tubing. The nut is used to adjust level so if you have tubes that rise or fall later you can adjust back to level with it. He even sent me a drawing but, it's at the lake and I'm in town this week. He had a term for them but it escapes me at the moment and they were available to purchase for a very nominal price.
Just a throught.
Okie Bob
PS: Glenn may have more info on this or be able to look it up in the archives..he is much better orgainized than I.

[Amanda_931]

Methinks there is no (or little) connection between Sunoco Oil and Sonoco Products.  "Sun Oil" was the origin of one, and "Southern Novelty Company" the origin of the other corporate name.

Oh.

Makes better sense.

[glenn kangiser]

Here is one of Jonesy's stumps.



http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1140911284/0#0

[Okie_Bob]

Knew I could count on you Glenn!!!!
Good work.
Okie Bob

[glenn kangiser]

That's only natural, BoB.  In a former life I was an abacus.

Glenn

[Amanda_931]

ICK, Glenn

[glenn-k]

Sorry 'bout that Amanda.  Sometimes I just can't help myself. :-/

[James(Guest)]

Hello there ...

I just purchased some land in CA and there is an existing foundation of a house that burned down. The dimensions are 16x32. I was wondering what type of design you have for such a narrow foundation?

[glenn kangiser]

John has the Victoria's Cottage which could be extended easily.

http://www.countryplans.com/victoria.html

Here is the main plans page.

http://www.countryplans.com/plans.html

[JRR]

James,
I think it would be feasible to overhang the foundation on both sides if you wish.  You could possibly have a 20 x 32 building on that foundation.

But the experts should comment on this possibility.