Soffit height above windows

Started by Alan Gage, April 24, 2011, 09:24:29 PM

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Alan Gage

I need to order trusses this coming week and one of the things I need to figure out is how high I want the soffit to be above my windows.

The roof will be a 4/12 pitch with a 3' overhang. This would put the soffits about 6" above the tops of the windows, which I don't want (thinking this will block the view too much). So what's an acceptable height? Is there some rule of thumb?  And what's the best way to get there?

It would seem my two options are to have the truss company build with a raised heel and then I can spec it to whatever height I want or else build 9' instead of 8' walls. Or maybe I'm just getting too picky and it wouldn't bother me. Maybe I need to rig up something where I'm living now to see what it looks like from inside.

I'm pretty sure I'll be going with a hip roof so the raised heel would probably add more than if it was a gable (more pieces).

Just looking for some thoughts.

Alan

PEG688



  Even flush with the window tops really doesn't block much view,



These soffits are about 34" IIRC flush with the window and door tops 9 foot ceilings.
So the view isn't really effected , sun light coming in might be some what effected by wide soffits , but as long as they are flush,  not hanging down into the window view and light are minimally effect. Or I'm missing your question.
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


Alan Gage

Quoteas long as they are flush,  not hanging down into the window view and light are minimally effect. Or I'm missing your question.

Nope, you're not missing anything. I don't ever recall being in a house with soffits so close to the windows and figured it would be more obtrusive than that. I am a little worried about how much sun it will block on the south facing windows during the shoulder seasons but it looks like it's not near the worry I thought it would be.

Thanks!

Alan

duncanshannon

Quote from: PEG688 on April 24, 2011, 09:51:12 PM

  Even flush with the window tops really doesn't block much view,




How do you do that?   How do you combine the platform/trusses and something to take the load above the floor to ceiling windows/doors?

Home: Minneapolis, MN area.  Land: (no cabin yet) Spooner, WI area.  Plan: 20x34 1 1/2 Story. Experience Level: n00b. 
Build Thread: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10784.0

PEG688



Magic!! :)     c*


I'll post some photo's of the framing later tonight. There's a beam there above the door and windows, with LVL posts at the mullions,  MST 16 straps go up the post , over the beam and down the other side of the posts. The sub fascia is considered structural 1 3/4" LVL as well.

The engineer was / is worried about up lift from the river bottom 80 feet below the house tearing the whole works apart.   PITA to build, and it's so plain / modern one of the laborer kids said it's like a art museum, which is true it's pretty plain any thing hung on the walls will be more to look at than the house itself.     


 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .


PEG688


The trusses hang off the beam , heavy hangers,  lots of metal strapping.

 



 This section of soffit is similar to what Alan was asking about as it is hung off the beam and trusses with straps , basically.




although it looks to be continuous , or normal,  it really isn't.  


Due to all the steel we fir-ed  down the bottom cords by 3/8" so the sheet rock could span across the steel and not get all bumpy / humpy / funky due to the steel. 
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

duncanshannon

cool. great explanation and thanks for the pics!
Home: Minneapolis, MN area.  Land: (no cabin yet) Spooner, WI area.  Plan: 20x34 1 1/2 Story. Experience Level: n00b. 
Build Thread: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10784.0

duncanshannon

so... that doesnt actually seem all that bad.

I'm thinking about putting in an 8' sliding glass door (where there just a wall right now) on 8' ceilings.

Is this how I'd approach that:

* build a temp wall inside to support the structure
* cut out the old wall
* put an appropriately sized header on top of the top plate (?)  (inside of a 'band' joist?)
* trim the joists slightly
* rehang the joists on the new beam
* finish framing the slider in, install door

I hope this isint too much of a thread hijack... i thought about a new thread.
Home: Minneapolis, MN area.  Land: (no cabin yet) Spooner, WI area.  Plan: 20x34 1 1/2 Story. Experience Level: n00b. 
Build Thread: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10784.0

duncanshannon

bump....

I tired to google some info about doing this... but I dont even know what to call it so not a lot of google results!
Home: Minneapolis, MN area.  Land: (no cabin yet) Spooner, WI area.  Plan: 20x34 1 1/2 Story. Experience Level: n00b. 
Build Thread: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=10784.0


PEG688


Doing what your suggesting on a existing building will be pretty tough , it's highly unlikely the existing rafters , or trusses would work out with the size the header would need to be to support them. 

Generally rafters or trusses are around 3 1/2" to 6" at the heel / point they cross the top plates , that alone would be a major issue as the header would be to small to carry any load.

   
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .