Need your ideas on a cabin.

[Sod Breaker]

I am in the begining stages of building a cabin.  At this point I am still trying to figure out costs and for that matter how big to build it.  The only I know right now is it can not be any more then 12FT wide I'm leaning more towards 8 Ft wide.  The reason is becuase it needs to be narrow enough that it could be transported down the road.  12ft could be transported with permits where as 8 Ft would not require any.  It will be built on skids   This cabin will be for semi-permanent occupancy, Other then that I don't know anything else.  I've never done this before but I figuire you guys are a smart bunch so I await your thoughts, ideas and expierence. 

Thanks, Sod Breaker

[devildog]

Does 10' need a permit? I think a couple of people on here built there cabin on skids. do a search and see what you find.
Darrell

[RainDog]

Here's a good resource for your needs:

http://tinyhouseblog.com/

They discuss exactly what you're doing, though it's generally less nuts and bolts than this site is. It's a great place to pick up some ideas, then come back here for specifics.

[poppy]

Sod Breaker  to the forum.

So are you building it off site and then transporting it to the semi-permanent location or building it on site and then moving it later?

I think we need a little more background in order to start a good conversation.

[John_M]

I like the idea of going a bit wider than 8 feet!  Don't forget, once you take into account the thickness of your walls and interior wall coverings (drywall, pine boards, paneling)....you're probably dealing with an interior dimension of 7 feet 4 inches or less!!!

Tell us more about yourself....why the need to move it?  If you don't think you can build it on site, there are plenty here who can help talk you into it!!  Ask enough questions and we'll talk ya into building a 20 x 30 1 1/2 story with wrap around porches!!

[Sod Breaker]

 Well for the one(s) who wanted to know more about me and my situation.  I am at the age where I no longer desire to live at home but I also take care of the family farm so simply buying some cute little house in town is out of the question becuase absentee managment is realy bad in agriculture. If something happens in the middle of the night I need to be there on site, not have to get in the car and drive 5 miles in a snow storm (or whatever).  The cabin fills this role quite well.  It needs to be portable becuase my mom and dad are not going to be around for ever (not that I wish them any harm)  and when that time comes this farm will sold to whom ever is the highest bidder and I have no intention of letting my cabin which I spent good money on go with it.

 As for the width I did send a materials list to a lumber yard and they are supposed to get back to in a couple weeks (the guy was on vacation) The size of this structure was 12ftX18ft,  216SF.  Basicly this cabin is one step above my original idea of a 25 ft pull type camper. When I was staying in a 12 ft camper last summer it was pretty tight but it could be done.   I live a pretty simple life so in planning this cabin I'm making no provisions for 120 VAC.  If I did wire it, it would be for 12VDC.  Is realy good enough for me.  I have no TV and this computer is Dad's and will not follow me in my move.  Realy the only thing I have that requires electirc is a radio and that could just as easily be run on batteries. or in the case of mine it has a plug right on the back of the radio to run of 12VDC.  Bascily this cabin is going to be one room.  A bunk along one wall.  A kitchette along the opposite wall.  A toilette would be a later project.  For water I would just have one of these plastic food grade drums (55gal.) and a food grade barrel pump next to it.  The sink would run right outside side as GREY WATER. (Capitilized in case any health inspectors are reading this.)  The skids would probably be built as it's own subassembly with the structure built on the top.  For this  I am thinking I would use telephone poles and brace across with 4X6s 4FT on ceneter to make the skid subassembly.  Then lay the floor joists over the top of this and fasten them to the 4X6s  Now I will say that I am on a budget.  I would to keep the cost as close to $1,000 as a can excluding labor, furnishings and trim work.

All of the above is subject to further thought and open debate.

Thanks,

Sod Breaker


Edited To Add:

I am thinking of something like this, Minus the bathroom.  And less of a roof pitch.  Maybe a flat rubber roof like a trailer house?  Also move the door and the porch to the narrow side so that the entire structure w/ porch  becomes 12FtX22Ft

http://www.townandcountryplans.com/sasktoon.html

[RainDog]

I am thinking of something like this, Minus the bathroom.  And less of a roof pitch.  Maybe a flat rubber roof like a trailer house?

http://www.townandcountryplans.com/sasktoon.html

A pitched roof buys you a sleeping loft, which clears space in the main area. You might rethink the no bathroom thing too. Shower stall and a portable toilet, if nothing else.

[Sod Breaker]

I'm thinking for a bathroom I might include a "bump out" on the back something like 4ftX6ft  and leave it open as a place to add a toilette later.  I've considered that a loft adds spcae but it also adds height.  The enemy of being able to move it later.

[Bobmarlon]

If you plan on living in this cabin for a long while I would go with this 12 x 22 design getting a permit will be worth it down the line.  I think you should have pitch in your roof just do mayby a 4 12 or something.  If you don't want it to be super tall. 

[Don_P]

Glenn will probably know, I think 12' above the road surface is maximum height for moving it?

[muldoon]

Hi sod,

I think you may be over-thinking the move it later part of the equation.  I had a 16'x24' barn moved to my place.  Yes, they had to get a permit, they had to have TxDot plot the route, it cost about 2grand and they did all the work.  If I understand what you are saying, at some point in the future, you would intend to sell the property this cabin would go on and you would want to move the cabin.  I would assume the sale of the farm would cover the relatively minor cost of moving this cabin.  In fact, you may find it allows you buy a new farm with a house you like more.  Who knows on that tho. 

I think you should focus on how you intend to use the place and build it to accomated that instead of building it accomdate being moved.  You mention a flat roof, I dont really like them myself.  Not only do you lose the loft, but you lose the ability to shed water as well.  You mentioned an 8' width; my deerstand is 8' wide and there is no way I would want to live in any structure that size. 

I encourage you to build something you will enjoy and continue to enjoy. 

Welcome to the forum.  I like your ideas on 12volt electric only, and I'm curious about your water plans if you want to get into more details around grey water and such. 

[Sod Breaker]

For grey water I am thnking of getting a 55 gal food grade plastic barrle.  and a food grade barrel pump.  For drianage. at this point I would just run it out the wall and into the yard.  eventualy I would put a tank in the ceiling and gravity feed water to the sink,

ETA:

I walked into town today.  Decided to stop by the guy about four miles down the road from me that builds these cabins.  he quoted me $2,200  for a 8X12 with  4 ft porch with a loft over it.

Sod Braekr

[Jens]

"I walked into town today.  Decided to stop by the guy about four miles down the road from me that builds these cabins.  he quoted me $2,200  for a 8X12 with  4 ft porch with a loft over it."

is that finished interior and exterior?  Awesome deal if it is.

[RainDog]

is that finished interior and exterior?  Awesome deal if it is.

Gotta be a shell only for that price. Even for that it's low enough to be skeptical.

Here's the budget to build one basic 12x10 shell design:

Window material & hardware: $65.61
Framing wood, plywood, & piers: $1,121.16
Entry door, window, z-flashing: $348.09
Fasttap screws: $21.98
Vents & vent paint (optional): $53.59
Redwood stain: $119.84
Hardware & caulk: $76.30
Roofing material: $154.56
Total: $1,961.13

Labor not included.

http://www.minicabinplans.com/

I've seen 'em finished out goin' for $30-$40,000.

http://www.tinytexashouses.com/Housingoptions.html

[Bob S.]

Have you looked at the shipping container house thread in the general Forum on this site? you could go to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNeFYs8qpg and see one that would work for you. Its already made to load up on a truck and go down the road.

[glenn kangiser]

Glenn will probably know, I think 12' above the road surface is maximum height for moving it?

In California the legal height to the top of the load is 14' 00" including the height of the trailer and I think that is pretty standard across the US as I was a long hauler pulling a 13'6 high reefer. 

Considerations was a trucker also - and she could carry the hiring manager at the trucking agency across the room. 

Lots of info here, eh?

[Sod Breaker]

That quoted price($2,200) was for the shell only Insulation and interior paneling I figured based on the Menard's flyer would be not quite another $500.

I suppose I should elaborate more what the cabin is.  It is the foremention size (8X12 w/ 4 porch w/ loft over)  walls 2ft o/c colored steel roof.  1/4 OSB wall sheathing with 1in. pine board siding stained and varnished included.

I had the idea before of remodling a shipping container but the price just to buy the conatiner put me severly over budget.  I also had (and am still chasing leads) the ideas to find an old reffer trailer with a bad reffer unit.  The idea being it's already insulated and I could probably pick it up cheap becuase who would want to dump a few grand for a new reffer unit into a trailer that's worth alot less than that.  Would also be easy to move and I could in the future pick up an old single axle, day cab for a few grand to pull it. Especialy if it has a few miles on it. 

[Pine Cone]

If I were you and thought a move was in my future I'd give a long hard look at used travel trailers.  I picked up a 20 or 22 foot long Prowler for under $1000 on Craigslist a couple of years ago and moved it out to my cabin site to give us cheap storage and a functional kitchen.  It's no beauty, and winter snow tends to leak inside so I put a tarp roof on it, but the price was and still is right. 

[RainDog]

These are probably the least expensive tiny house packages I've seen on the internet, everything considered.

Interior pictures on the site look nice enough.

http://www.zoeoutdoors.com/

Terrible lookin' website, though. Oh well, can't have everything.

[grandmasplayhouse]

We wanted a small cabin in a spot that was impossible to build at so we bought prebuilt and had it moved in. Sounds like what you want to do. www.swedesbuildings.com

[Sod Breaker]

That cabin is almost exactly what I am looking for .

My lastest idea was as mentioned above to find a camper.  However county ordinaces require campers to have current tabs or be shedded.  Well I figure one of thse do it yourself carport kits count as a shed.  The ones that are pipe frame with the tarp over it.  And it would keep the wind off the camper.  But I'd still prefer a cabin.  I have been looking into these "skid houses" for fishing and I have found some good size houses alot cheaper then what you could build it for.

Sod Breaker

[grandmasplayhouse]

I just saw many fish houses listed on Minneapolis Craigslist. This is the time of year when everyone is ready to sell them.Would make a fine temporary "cabin" They have bunks and tables and some even have stoves. Most are 12 volt and have some sort of direct vent heating. A fish house is so common in Minnesota. Building a nice sturdy cabin like the ones shown in the "Gallery" would be ideal, but not all of us have the time,money and talent.
Good luck
It took me a long time to save enough money for our little dream. Good things usually take time