Multi-phased 1 1/2 story home project in Austin, TX

Started by phalynx, February 11, 2007, 10:20:49 PM

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phalynx

We started  construction 2 weeks ago on a multi phased home in Central TX.  We are starting with a simple 14x16 "cabin" that will be attached to a breezeway/porch that will be connected to either John's 20x30 1 1/2 story or the 20x34 2 story.  We STILL can't decide which is truly best for us.

Here are a few pictures of what we have so far.  Yes, I am the one that always seems to be relaxing in all of the pictures.  My wife (who is a fantastic help with the project) always takes the pictures when I am taking a break.









If you happen to see something that I did wrong, point it out.  This cabin is my proof of concept.  I want to build it the way I will build the house and make sure that we can do it right.

glenn-k

Well, even with all the breaks you take, it looks like you are moving right along. :)

(Like I should talk as I sit on my bum trying to stay dry.) :-/



phalynx

It's hard to tell from the picture because I have so many extra's laying around.  The building is sitting on 16x16x4 "mobile home" concrete pads with 16x8x4 concrete blocks to make it level.  It's not fantastic but it appears like it will work.  That's what they put mobile homes on around here.  The house will be poured concrete/post to the beam.

youngins

Have any pic's of putting beam's / floor joist's in?

Let us know if you meed another pair of hands - we are not that far from you...


peg_688

#5
You could have gotten 9' sheet goods and tied the joist system and walls together by running them vertically.  On a house , if you need brace wall panels (BWP) you'd need horziontal blocking at the 4' sheathing seam.

Your ridge prop , if your leaving it in place , is way overkill  and would be in the way of  agble vent , if , you where going to vent that way.

Other than those , which may be nick picking , it looks good. And like Glenn said to many breaks  ;D


 What's the 2x4 sticking out for ?? Was it  temp brace ?? Sky hook ??

Keep up the good work , just more of it!

G/L PEG  

Edited to add I don't see any sheet rock backing / built up inside corner on those  long walls , where the two short ones meet the long ones .  

 A " L" type corner at minium is required .

youngins


phalynx

"the 2x4 sticking out of the wall"  I was just laughing about that with my wife.  I told her it wouldn't be long before someone asked what it was.  Ok, I was a scared of the dark...  I stuck it up there and hung my lantern from it.  We live in Houston and our property is about 45 minutes North East of Austin.  We drive up on Friday nights, camp out, and work all weekend.   Just like so many on here.  That's what I love about this place.  We enjoy it.  We work during the light and then have a ncie campfire and sit around with our girls and enjoy the peace and quiet.  

On the 9' sheets.  We wanted to do that but we are working from "home depot and Lowes" for everything.  They didn't have it.  We are going to put 3/4 foam board on the outside wall before the hardi plank.  This I will make 9' by cutting.  It's certainly not as strong as "osb" but I figure it may help :) .  For the ridge prop, I thought it should be permanent.  The last time I built a roof,  I didn't even think to make anything like that.  I shoot myself for it now.  It made the install so much easier.  I will leave it in place because I am going to put in a continous ridge vent.  That should provide enough air movement.  

On the sheetrock backing, we are looking for the "sheetrock clips" that are in the superinsulated framing pictures on the net.  If I can't find them, it's going to be fun trying to put something in there....

peg_688

#8
Oh that explains the flyer stud ;D

I've never used those clips , I can see many issues , the main one being cracked corners from some ones kids grab arse-in, cluch butt- in , skylarking  and in general being good kids horse in around . BUT YMMV on that ;D

And remember you asked for comments / suggestions  ;) ;D  

The foam won't do &hit as far as sheer / holding things together ::)


phalynx

Oh the comments are very useful.  Keep them coming.  I am assuming that the osb not being connected to the floor system, it would be about the same as a concrete slab floor.  But, then again, I do see a lot of pretty slabs with nothing on them after bad storms.  Well, I will definately connect to the floor when I do the main house.  At least then I will have 12-20' walls so I can use 8' osb and not have a 1' piece at the top.  Also, I just paid the lowest price I can remember for 7/16's osb,  $4.97.  I was floored, ok pun intended.

glenn-k

When you're good, you're good, PEG.  What can I say. :)

If it was steel I'd know more about it.  :-/  

In the meantime, I'll just sit back and watch you do all the heavy lifting. ::)

peg_688

#11
QuoteWhen you're good, you're good, PEG.  What can I say. :)

If it was steel I'd know more about it.  :-/  

In the meantime, I'll just sit back and watch you do all the heavy lifting. ::)

We all have our strong points Glenn , even you ;D

glenn-k

#12
Quote
We all have our strong points Glenn , even you ;D

I know, but people keep telling me that smell isn't everything.   :o

peg_688

Quote

 Also, I just paid the lowest price I can remember for 7/16's osb,  $4.97.  I was floored, ok pun intended.


I just noticed this , you didn't use 7/16" OSB on / for your subfloor did ya??

If so on the main house I'd recomend 3/4" T&G EDGEGOLD (a brand of subflooring made out of OSB).  

 And Glenn I'd been meaning to mention that smell , it's burning my eyes  ;D

OSB up here is $7.00 and change, you Texan's are gettin a deal.  Someone will now point out GWB has some collusion in the whole mess.  


phalynx

#14
osb for floor, NOOOOO.....  I used 3/4" T&G Plywood for the floor.  I wanted to do everything to make it not squeek.  But, I bought construction  adhesive but it was all dried when I tried to apply it.  I guess they need a freshness date on them.  Oh well.  On the house, I will use construction adhesive, period.  I am thinking about doubling the 3/4" T&G on the house.  Just for the extra stiffness.

peg_688

They sell a 5/4 " T&G ply you might want to check out. DBLing the 3/4 might result in more squeaks if you had any mis bonding , (((I assume IF you dbled up the ply you would glue it together, )) between the two layers.

The 5/4 (full inch) ply is heavy as heck but it is hell fer stout!!! :) :)  We use it , generally, on a 19.2 "I" joist layout.

Might be TMI , eh!  (To Much Info)  But you could cost out the 5/4 ply and see better but $$ what best for your project.

Feel free to ask more spacfic questions if I've confused you.

G/L PEG

youngins

Excuse my ignorance, but what do you use the adhesive for?

phalynx

supposedly between the floor joists and the plywood.  It keeps the wood to wood contact at a minimum which decreases SQUEEEK...   as far as I have read.

John_M


youngins

Are there other critical point to use the adhesive, ie sheathing etc?

Also- I noticed you used Styrofoam under the sole plate - I presume that's to seal the gap under it which is created by the flooring not being flush with the joist?


phalynx

I am trying to be as anal as possible in the insulation of this place.  I would love to not have to heat or cool much.  I am following directions for superinsulation on everything I can read.  Putting many methods together in some cases.  I will be putting 3/4" foam board on the outside as well as using R-19 in the walls.  Hoping to get about R-23 or better.  I am trying to figure out how best to insulate the underneath.  My wife, being small, has volunteered to crawl under there and put in the insulation.  I have 2x8's in there at 16" o/c.  The best insulation I can find so far is just r-19.  It would leave a gap as it is designed for 2x6 walls.  I also would like a few tips to seal the bottom.  I assuming that a black poly should be put on the bottom after the insulation to seal it.  I don't know how to apply the poly.  just staples would allow critters to enter...  I was thinking about spray adhesive in addition to staples.

youngins

#21
It appears speedfunk put some styrofoam in between the floor joists and poly underneath his flooring:

http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1165954820/0#0


peg_688

#22
Quote

#1: Are there other critical point to use the adhesive, ie sheathing etc?

  #2: Also- I noticed you used Styrofoam under the sole plate - I presume that's to seal the gap under it which is created by the flooring not being flush with the joist?

 #1: I know of only one builder that glues his sheathing on, it is way over the top over kill IMO, and if and when anyone remodels his homes they will have a added PITA cutting all that glue free . Some unsuspecting builder will loose money on that / those jobs then they take place.

#2:  I'd also say that foam under the walls is overkill , it is generally used between the concrete and the PT True "sole plate" . In this instance the plates we see are really just bottom plates , IMO / interpation.

He will MTL also be caulking the joint between the bottom plate and the subfloor connection.

phalynx has said he is following and in some case's combining super insulated building ideas , he may create more problems doing that , but hey it's his money.

I am not  big supporter of all super insulated building practices / ideas. They can create a unhealthly house , they can cause issues to vast to predict/ illumate on here.

I'd rather have seen a better post and pier / footing setup on his place , but that's been addressed in a earlier post by some one else.

A good proper footing / base is way more important than saving $5.00 a year on heating cost, IMO. For what that worth :-[    

All in all it looks like a good job and he is doing what he thinks is best for him and his place .

peg_688

Quote I also would like a few tips to seal the bottom.  I assuming that a [highlight]black poly should be put on the bottom after the insulation to seal it.[/highlight]  I don't know how to apply the poly.  just staples would allow critters to enter...  I was thinking about spray adhesive in addition to staples.


No don't do it , it will trap the moisture trying to get out , use Typar , Tyvek , or a lesser (ie lumber yard stamped off brand)  [highlight]breathable[/highlight] wrap.

phalynx

Quote
Quote I also would like a few tips to seal the bottom.  I assuming that a [highlight]black poly should be put on the bottom after the insulation to seal it.[/highlight]  I don't know how to apply the poly.  just staples would allow critters to enter...  I was thinking about spray adhesive in addition to staples.


No don't do it , it will trap the moisture trying to get out , use Typar , Tyvek , or a lesser (ie lumber yard stamped off brand)  [highlight]breathable[/highlight] wrap.

Interesting, I thought that Tyvek ad such deterorate when exposed to the outside?  I certainly see your point.  I know mobile homes use some form of woven fabric under the homes.  It may be for the very thing you are talking about.  

As for the pier setup on the cabin, I have left the option to place it on a perm foundation later.  It is small enough to be jacked up and put on a more perm foundation.  We may also move it.  We may hate where we have it right now.  The more that people say something stinks, the more apt I am to change it.  I certainly know very little in the grand scheme of things and am learning from all of you everyday.  I just want to know why so that I can eventually answer my own questions before I act on them.

As for the foam under the sole plate.   It's 1/8" foam and I was trying to mitigate the air loss in the small voids of imperfect wood.  It may not help much or it may work great.  I dunno, but it was only 6.00 worth..  ;)

But again, I am not trying to be defensive on my methods, just trying to explain why I "thought" I should.  And, .... it's the small one.  I hope to have all of these issues worked out before I start the big one.