4X4 vehicles

Started by altaoaks, September 14, 2010, 02:34:33 PM

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what are the better choices for a used 4X4 for dirt roads/mud and snow

toyota
5 (22.7%)
jeep
8 (36.4%)
dodge
3 (13.6%)
other
6 (27.3%)

Total Members Voted: 22

Voting closed: September 24, 2010, 02:34:33 PM

MountainDon

A: rear anti-sway bar. I tied it without it but its lack is noticeable when (a) towing and (b) when carrying a roof top load. I dropped the body/chassis mount position 1.25 inches with a couple square steel tube spacers. Not sure if that helps the bar but theory says it should move through a better range. I can not say that I notice any problems in any off road use.

Also I tossed the Rubicon front disconnects after struggling with them a couple times. I have JKS Quicker Disconnects.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

MountainDon

The solution to the need to tow the trailer for almost everything may be resolved with a roof rack. Not the factory roof rack; it is a joke.

I built mine from 1x1 and 3/4x3/4    0.062 wall steel tubing. It has done an admirable job. I have carried something like 50 twelve foot 2x6's on it with no damage to anything. Of course that's one reason I like the rear sway bar to be installed and active. That load was also around town on paved roads. I would not haul that to the cabin.

The load is carried by the roof edge drip rail. You can see I removed the stock rack and sold it.





I originally sized it to carry gas cans and camping gear. That bar on the top is used to lock my Rubbermaid gas cans in place. It's removable. I use a siphon tube to transfer gas down to the Jeep tank. 

For long lumber I built a bar using the same mount system. I can mount that if needed on the front edge of the roof. The load sticks out the back some when centered but was never a problem. If traveling on rough roads I use loop style ratchet straps to bind each overhang together.

To just carry lumber the upper rails would not be needed.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


glenn kangiser

Got my transmission linkage sorted out after studying various pix and descriptions and drawings and knowing how it should work to help figure the pix etc. out.  There was a spring pulling the wrong way on the bottom and none on the top - looks like the boys didn't understand all of it when they put it back together either.  Renter OH'd the engine.

Also found that the trans shop had overtightened the front band causing drag in reverse as well as a bit in first.  It was set at 1 1/2 turns and the book calls for 2 1/2 turns.  Reverse is a bit draggy but doable now.  I have kickdown at the proper places going up hills etc now.

Getting better one problem at a time.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

OlJarhead


You can also get the rear bumper rack like I have here -- it helps loads.

However -- DO NOT buy a crappy Yakima rack.  You will spend LOTS of $$$ and wish you hadn't.  I can't seem to find it a new home either but intend someday to get a much nicer rack or have one made.

But somethings just can't be done in a rack or racks and that's what trailers are for :)

glenn kangiser

Glad I read more on the distributor upgrade.  Looks like the cheap ones eat cams regularly.

Info and options here including an upgrade info for the stock Motorcraft.

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/ignition/jeep/HEIcompair.html
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


Rover

I thought I would resurrect this old thread. I hope you don't mind the distraction but I'm quite excited about my truck rebuild while the cabin is buried in snow.
Can't wait to drive it around the land when its complete.  I hate rust so to date the whole frame, firewall, radiator/headlight panel, door frames, rear box frames and hood frames are hot dipped galvanized.  The skins of the bodywork are aluminum. 





There won't be any vinyl on this dashboard.

MountainDon

I remember this. I see the wheels have wheels, dollys. 
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Erin

 [cool]

There's not enough there for me to decide:  Is that a Jeep or a Scout?
The wise woman builds her own house... Proverbs 14:1

MountainDon

Erin. look at his member name.... Rover.....  Land Rover, an oldie
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


Rover

Yup
MountainDon is correct.  Its a Land Rover, 1965.  I've had it for almost 20 years. 

Erin

Now that never even crossed my mind.  lol  d*
I've never seen a LR in real life...

The back end there, though, do you see it?  That looks like a Scout to me, but off a little...
And the radiator/headlights were completely messing me up, but I figured it's just because there was too much missing at the moment!  
The wise woman builds her own house... Proverbs 14:1

MountainDon

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Brian_G

I own a couple of 4x4 vehicles and like to get them dirty, but the one that is always used to get up to our mountain property is our jeep Cherokee. The reason 1. it always can 2. It is not so expensive I am afraid to beat it up (truck and all mods for me under $6k) 3. I have tried others and had to use the Cherokee to get them out. It is a little built but nothing crazy really. it has a lift runs 35' mud terrains for the clearance (better articulation with 33's for rocks) is locked front and rear, has a 4:1 transfer case conversion with slip yoke eliminator, the axles have been re-geared. It still manages to maintain 20+ mpg to get me there and back so it is my natural choice.



Squirl

20 mpg?  I couldn't get that on my stock Cherokee.  Impressive.


Brian_G

Technically with the 35's I should be running 4.88 to 1 gear ratio in the axles but because of the 4:1 transfer case I run 4.56 to 1 ratio it works like an overdrive but off road has no issues that I have found to date

OlJarhead

My '01 5 speed cherokee used to get 23 on the highway but I can't seem to get over 18.5mpg in the Road Warrior (98 with 3" lift and 31's with 4.10:1's)...I'd love to get more out of it but haven't found the right recipe yet.