12x16 workshop-Slowwwww build.

Started by ben2go, October 12, 2016, 10:16:52 PM

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ben2go

BEWARE!This is gonna be a slooooow build.I'm disabled and working mostly by myself,or getting help from my two sons and my wife.Their time to help out is limited by the shorter days,school,and work.

I've been planning this build for a few years.I finally have gotten the motivation to just jump in and do it.Plus,I am buying out a friend's motorcycle shop,inventory,and motorcycles.

I have two other portable buildings scattered across my 2 acres.Plus another 12x16 timber frame that is in really sad shape.It's about 60 years old and was in rough shape when I inherited it.The car port in some of these pics will eventually be enclosed.The old mobile home will be torn down early next year,I hope.I'll salvage what I can and recycle the rest.I use it for storage.It was my dad's, and where I grew up.It will be replaced by a true modular house, or double wide mobile home.Once that is in place,I plan to build a good size garage.I want a 30'x40', but may have to settle for a 24'x24'.Not enough room for the 40'x60' that I really want.We will see after the housing costs.

Onto the workshop.I need a place that I can roll motorcycles,L&G equipment,and bicycles in and out.It's very difficult to do that with my portable buildings.This is just to "get by" until the garage can be built.I won't be doing that build.It will be hired out.This 12'x16' will be built over an existing concrete pad, that my dad poured back in '81.I was 5 years old,and I "helped".It had one of those little metal 10'x9' sheds, by Arrow, on it.It was torn down many decades ago.Hurricane Hugo took the roof off of it.

This will be a post/pole building.The 4'x12' posts will be set 36 inches into the ground on 4 foot centers.It may be overkill.We really don't have a frost line in Spartanburg,SC where I'm located.The roof will be a rafter style 3:12 or 4:12 pitch.I haven't decided on the pitch,but I am leaning toward 4:12 pitch.We rarely get snow,plus it will have a metal roof.What little snow we get should slip right off.The walls will be 8' tall.The concrete pad will make up most of the front right corner.I got some local advice on locking the pad into a concrete collar.It just didn't make sense to notch the pad for the posts.Plus,it may destabilize it.The ground is pretty well compacted.I will manually excavate for a 4 inch base of compacted 3/4" crushed washed stone.I will do turn downs on the outer edges to lock the pad to the base.Our soil drains well and there was no water penetration issues with the original pad,so I'm stick with what has worked for years.The finished pad will have mesh in it,and be 3 and 1/2 inches thick like the original pad.

Last week,I did the rough layout to get an idea of where to locate the corners,and deployed the ever so technical corner locating tools.I set out stakes. :)

This morning,I started ripping up the, ummm, grass slash weeds.  ??? I removed the crap on top of the ground.I started at 8am and finished up at about 6:45pm.I had to take a lot of breaks.It was about 75 degrees outside,but I had full sun until 6pm.Sorry about the glare in some of my pics.My phone isn't the best.

Back right look to the front left.


Front left looking to the back right.


Front right looking to back left.


Outline done.Now remove the rest.I ripped the "grass" slash weeds out.When my youngest son, 13, got home from school,he spread the grass/weed piles out across some bare places in the yard.Wheel barrow had a bad tube,so he carried the grass/weed piles out one shovel at a time.


This pic is for a bit of a comparison between my 20x20 carport and the future workshop.The carport walls are 6' and the eve is 12'.I only ripped out about 6 inches past where the finished workshop will be.


Tomorrow,I will be picking up the supplies to set up batter boards and string lines.My old hole diggers are shot,so I'll pick up a new set with composite handles.I'm also going to look at compound miter saws.I'd like a 12 inch compound sliding double bevel miter saw,but I may settle for a 10 inch compound non sliding single bevel miter saw.Lowe's has a deal on saw horses.I'm debating on buying two wooden ones, or just making my own.Cost wise,it's not much difference. 

That's it for tonight.If my wife doesn't have to work late tomorrow,I hope to get started on setting up the batter boards and string lines.That will allow me to fine tune the excavation work and dig the post holes.I plan to back fill the post holes with compacted base material.So I'll probably dig the holes 40 inches deep.

Don_P

Is there a reason not to just pour a thickened edge slab and stick frame on top of it?


ben2go

Quote from: Don_P on October 13, 2016, 06:28:39 AM
Is there a reason not to just pour a thickened edge slab and stick frame on top of it?

No reason at all,from a construction stand point. Economics of my area,I come out a little better in the end, by going with posts.  [cool]


ben2go

I picked up the supplies needed for setting up my batter boards.Unfortunately,I can't locate my brass plumb bob or my 3lb shop maul.Fortunately,I can get those at Harbor Freight for about $12 total.Lowe's couldn't even come close to that for a good brass plumb bob. :-\

Lowe's can be such an evil mistress at times.  [toilet]

Cheeses! It'd be nice to come out of this in better shape.

Gary O

'I'm also going to look at compound miter saws.I'd like a 12 inch compound sliding double bevel miter saw,but'


GET IT!
(you won't look back)
I'm enjoying all that I own, the moment.

"Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air." Emerson


ben2go

Quote from: Gary O on October 14, 2016, 06:17:24 AM
'I'm also going to look at compound miter saws.I'd like a 12 inch compound sliding double bevel miter saw,but'


GET IT!
(you won't look back)

I did.I bought it yesterday afternoon.I rarely use one, but I know it'll come in handy with this project.I used to be in the trades with my family and some of my family's friends.I don't really want to get back into that,but I can see me doing more wood working.When we get the new house,I'll new some new quality furniture.I hate the flat pack crap that is found everywhere.It's rare to find real solid wood furniture around here.

ben2go

Don_P brought up a good point about pouring a larger pad and doing a basic stick framed building.It would be easier, and maybe even a little faster.It surely would cut down on the labor of digging all 16 of those post holes,tamping the bottoms,filling with gravel,and tamping some more.

Cheeses! I think I'm trying to talk myself into changing plans.Even if it's a little more money.  [shocked]

ChugiakTinkerer

Quote from: ben2go on October 14, 2016, 08:57:31 AM
...

Cheeses! I think I'm trying to talk myself into changing plans.Even if it's a little more money.  [shocked]

There are only two currencies: time and money.  Spend whichever you have the most of.
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story

ben2go

Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on October 14, 2016, 11:47:12 AM
There are only two currencies: time and money.  Spend whichever you have the most of.

Time.

Money will be tight until I can get this building done and move everything I bought from my friend's shop.Once that is done,I can start inventorying everything and start selling off stuff I can't use or don't need.


Don_P

What about post framing is making it cheaper... I'm wondering if that cannot be incorporated within a slab on grade build?

ben2go

Quote from: Don_P on October 14, 2016, 08:27:00 PM
What about post framing is making it cheaper... I'm wondering if that cannot be incorporated within a slab on grade build?

$13 for 4'x4'x12' on 48 inch centers VS $3.50 for 2x4x8 on 16 inch centers.Plus I get 5% off my purchases at Lowe's.The savings isn't much, but it's there.I am considering just going stick built.If my Lowe's has a sale on 2x4x8 studs,when I'm ready to start putting wood up,I'll go stick built.Friday through Sunday,I am usually out of town with the wife and kid.It will be next week before I am finished with the dirt work and considering wood work.It would be nice if they put 2x4 studs on sale again.Last time I got them for $1.97.

Don_P

I'm assuming you'll need to strap over the 4' spaced 4x4's to side it? The 2x4's could be spaced 24" on center... or they could go 4' oc with strapping for a storage building... or you could use 4x4x8' on top of the slab.  There's several ways to go here and still avoid the post hole diggers. At work I found the metal parts to a post hole digger in the bottom of the bonfire pile, somebody must have had enough  :D.

ben2go

Quote from: Don_P on October 15, 2016, 06:05:50 AM
I'm assuming you'll need to strap over the 4' spaced 4x4's to side it? The 2x4's could be spaced 24" on center... or they could go 4' oc with strapping for a storage building... or you could use 4x4x8' on top of the slab.  There's several ways to go here and still avoid the post hole diggers. At work I found the metal parts to a post hole digger in the bottom of the bonfire pile, somebody must have had enough  :D.

Yes,strapping.I know them as purlins,but that is from my roofing days. 2x6 doubled at the top,2x6 at the bottom,2x4 in between.I was thinking about going stick built,insulate the entire thing and use it as an office once I get the garage built.I'm planning to build it to last and look good for a long time.

The town I live close to is expanding.I want to build some value.When our son graduates high school in 2021,we're vacating and heading back to the mountains soon after.We're hoping to sale for a reasonable profit.

Don_P

Yup, the strapping is called purlins on a roof or girts on a wall. I think by the time you strap the post frame the cost difference between that and stick framing it is going to be minor and the labor will be greater in this instance where there is a shallow slab on grade foundation. Not strongly favoring one over the other, just more options to mull over. For resale, I'd lean more towards a 3 bent timberframe on top of the slab with a treated 6x6 sill and sawmill pine for the frame, girts, purlins and sheathing. If there is a sawmill nearby that might be another option.



ben2go

Quote from: Don_P on October 16, 2016, 08:48:55 AM
Yup, the strapping is called purlins on a roof or girts on a wall. I think by the time you strap the post frame the cost difference between that and stick framing it is going to be minor and the labor will be greater in this instance where there is a shallow slab on grade foundation. Not strongly favoring one over the other, just more options to mull over. For resale, I'd lean more towards a 3 bent timberframe on top of the slab with a treated 6x6 sill and sawmill pine for the frame, girts, purlins and sheathing. If there is a sawmill nearby that might be another option.

Options options options.  ???

Our saw mills are a bit more expensive as they do mostly specialty woods or sizes.It hard for them to compete with the big box stores prices.  :(

ben2go

Yesterday evening, and this evening,I work on setting up batter boards to locate the corners of the building.I'm only able to work about and hour or two a day.I am hoping to have the rest done tomorrow evening, and have everything squared.I was jumping for joy,not very high tho,when I checked my first corner and it was level and square.Got darn lucky with that one.I haven't set batter boards and run string lines in nearly 15 years.

I was talking with the waifu.We decided to go 16 inches on center with the walls,and 24 inches on center with 2x6 rafters.I will use a double top plate and run ceiling joists on 24 inch centers.I'll be hanging stuff from the ceiling joists,like bicycles and other stuff that don't get used often.

Here's a few pics.Not much,but shows some progress.





I climbed up in the back of my truck and tried to get an "aerial" view.  d*


ben2go

Almost a month later and not much to report.I said it was gonna be slow,and it is painfully slow. I had to do a medical test and the solution they gave me made me sick for a little over a week.So here is me catching up.

I have finished the big dig and started forming up.I should finish the forms later today or tomorrow.









A better size comparison to my 20x20 carport.


My father encased to old building tie downs in concrete. This, I hope, will help stabilize the new concrete. I'm planning to add in mesh and rebar around the perimeter of both pads. It will make more sense once I get it in and set up.




This is where I stopped Thursday evening. I cleaned up the area before taking the pics. I'm hoping to finish up today or tomorrow.Fingers crossed,I hope my back holds out.













ben2go

This is a repost from my other thread.  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=14523.0

I live in northern Spartanburg County SC. If you haven't already heard, we are having some really bad wildfires in upstate SC and western NC. I live on a hump,in a bowl-shaped depression in the earth. We haven't had much wind in over a week, and not much rain in months. All the smoke from the wildfires is really affecting my breathing, so I didn't get any work done today.

I did go search for those rebar pins for my forms. I found them buried in the back of the 1/2 x 24-inch rebar cubby.  d* I bought four to finish up one side. If I can get them driven in low enough, I may replace all of my wooden stakes. They have started loosening up in the ground.

I grabbed a #2 x 1 5/8" Grab-Rite screw and stuck it in the pin. It fits good with very little wiggle room.The pins are sold as .75 x .75 x 12 inch. I measured them. I found they vary by 1/16th of an inch in diameter and by a half inch in length. Not a big deal for my intended use,but thought I'd mention it for others that may be looking in.

A pic er two for your viewing pleasure.  ;D