Simple Porch

Started by OlJarhead, September 10, 2010, 04:48:28 PM

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OlJarhead


OK so it's double 2x10's for the beams and two posts on blocks.

Question on bracing:  does it matter if they are like in this picture?  Or should braces meet on each post (in other words top to top, bottom to bottom etc.?

Never thought of it before I started drawing it.

Anyway, thanks again Don!   [cool]

Don_P

#26
 To timberframers a brace works in compression. It is tightly fitted into place and resists the angle it is supporting from "closing" or becoming more acute. They do not work well in tension, the end of the beam where the joint would be trying to become more obtuse. That's why you'll see them typically in opposing pairs in old work, each is bracing from one direction. Nailed on braces are kinda sketchy most of the time.

What I was proposing is to throw away the beams under the structure, make the rim a double 2x10, and inset it 1-1/2" into full height 6x6 corner posts. This would use the wall sheathing as the bracing.


OlJarhead

Quote from: Don_P on September 20, 2010, 07:30:28 AM
To timberframers a brace works in compression. It is tightly fitted into place and resists the angle it is supporting from "closing" or becoming more acute. They do not work well in tension, the end of the beam where the joint would be trying to become more obtuse. That's why you'll see them typically in opposing pairs in old work, each is bracing from one direction. Nailed on braces are kinda sketchy most of the time.

What I was proposing is to throw away the beams under the structure, make the rim a double 2x10, and inset it 1-1/2" into full height 6x6 corner posts. This would use the wall sheathing as the bracing.

For a temporary porch that seems like a lot of work Don.   I'm sure it's the strongest but I'm looking for an inexpensive design and build that will last a year or three before I tear it out and put in the surround porch/deck.

But I do appreciate your sharing knowledge!  And it sounds like what you are describing is what I will do (and I was wondering about that actually) with the surround deck/porch that will replace this one.

So you answered THAT question without knowing it :D 

However,  I was looking for info on a simple porch that would suffice for 1 to 3 years while I gather the funds to build the surround deck/porch and that can be used to house my batteries and power equipment in the meantime.

To me, putting in some pier blocks, tossing on some 4x4 posts, putting a beam across them and bracing them like the cabin was done should suffice.  The question is:  will a double 2x10 suffice as drawn here? 

I'll redraw with braces going as described earlier.
Thanks

OlJarhead


OK I took a new approach (Thanks Don_P) and created components of each, well, component :)

First was the post and pier, second was the 2x10 beams and third was the joists.

This does work much better though I can't figure out how to just paste in components once they are made (if you deleted them or started a new project) but I think I have the answer (save them).

Anyway, you can now see the post and piers and the double 2x10 beams (actually I think I need to stick a 1/2" piece of plywood between them to make them 4" to match the posts but who's checking on me anyway right? :P

OK, now to make 2x6x6 rim joists and then drop a lid on it :)

OlJarhead

d* ???

Somebody smack me!

OK I've messed around for another hour...hardest thing it seems is to draw an exact component and then fit it exactly where you want it...moving can be a pain in the rear...but anyway, I'm getting the hang of it.

So, 4x4 posts on piers with 2x10 beams and 2x6 joists on 24" centers...


Don_P

The double 2x10 should work if your snow loads are under about 40 psf. I didn't check the joists, do that on the awc calc or code tables.

i normally draw a line that is along one edge of the components final location and tick off marks that correspond to one layout corner of the component. When moving always grab it by that point and place it on the tick mark. After the second placement it'll usually snap to the location it has learned.

Window>layers. open another layer (+) and draw the walls in that layer. open another for the roof. You can then uncheck a layer, turning it off and see the layers below unencumbered by what would normally obscure them. I label each layer and can then draw and import a layer with a new name. That house has been through multiple foundation designs, I delete one layer and add a new one with the new foundation plan.

OlJarhead

Quote from: Don_P on September 20, 2010, 06:24:42 PM
The double 2x10 should work if your snow loads are under about 40 psf. I didn't check the joists, do that on the awc calc or code tables.

i normally draw a line that is along one edge of the components final location and tick off marks that correspond to one layout corner of the component. When moving always grab it by that point and place it on the tick mark. After the second placement it'll usually snap to the location it has learned.

Window>layers. open another layer (+) and draw the walls in that layer. open another for the roof. You can then uncheck a layer, turning it off and see the layers below unencumbered by what would normally obscure them. I label each layer and can then draw and import a layer with a new name. That house has been through multiple foundation designs, I delete one layer and add a new one with the new foundation plan.

Thanks Don,

I checked the span tables for the joists and at 40lbs they can span 8' for DF#2's on 24" centers.  Mine is set to span 7' but I decided to increase to 16" centers anyway.

I've been playing with layers and it helps a ton -- now to get the snapping down!

When you say 'line' do you mean a measurement line or an actual line?  The actual line might be a good idea if not -- I'll try that.