Sewer line drop

Started by Brigit-Carol, January 20, 2005, 09:12:14 AM

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Amanda_931

I've been researching rainwater harvesting (partly to avoid stuff like that couple's situation?) while it would be nice to have buried tanks, most of the manufacturers and distributors say that they must be installed filled--so they won't float.




Daddymem

#26
We always assume that the tanks are empty, the water level is at the surface, and only take credit for the weight of the tank and the soil over it....in other words the worst case scenario.  With concrete tanks, we are usually okay with our 1,500 gallon tanks.  I imagine plastic tanks would not fare so well.  If the tank will float by our calculations, we either fix a concrete pad below, or on top, or if volume is there, we pour it inside the tank bottom.  I once had a 45,000 gallon tunnel mold tank float just enough that the joints leaked.  It was attached to a concrete pad but the contractor left the hole open and it rained, filling up the excavation so when I do the big commercial tanks I often don't even take credit for the soil over.

If you are collecting rainwater for garden use only, take a look at rain gardens, and water barrels at the ends of your downspouts.  Both of these are very DIY and can be very economical.  You should be aware of what toxins can be washed down off of metal roofs in your area if you intend to use rainwater for drinking, or in Glenn's case I wouldn't suggest anyone drink water off his roof  ;)
Où sont passées toutes nos nuits de rêve?
Aide-moi à les retrouver.
" I'm an engineer Cap'n, not a miracle worker"

http://littlehouseonthesandpit.wordpress.com/


glenn kangiser

Now,Daddymem, My horse manure was properly composted so it turned to soil with a rich nutty flavor I mean smell. ;D

I can see where an engineer especially would have to do the CYA thing with tanks now that you mentioned it.  Really makes you hate those popups, doesn't it. ::)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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Amanda_931

#28
These are the plastic/poly, fiberglass, or even steel tanks.
 
We had a fuel oil tank float to the surface when I was a kid.  Late summer, hadn't filled it for the year, got hit by a lot of rain on the edges of a hurricane.  It was company housing, but I think it was the end of the fuel oil heater for the (really quite big house).  Don't know but what it might still have floated if it had been filled--something about the relative weights of fuel oil and water?

Daddymem

Zoeller has some decent technical documents on pump station sizing here:  http://www.zoeller.com/Zep/Techbrief/zeptechbrief.htm

There are some regional differences but these will help get you on the right track about the finer details of pump curves.
Où sont passées toutes nos nuits de rêve?
Aide-moi à les retrouver.
" I'm an engineer Cap'n, not a miracle worker"

http://littlehouseonthesandpit.wordpress.com/


glenn kangiser

Thanks Daddymem, I was looking at the filters you recommended the other day - fairly reasonable for a house system - Do I understand right that they fit into the septic tank exit tee.  Looks like one could be used in other ways also.  It looks like you would have to pull the septic lid to service it.  Or would it be better to use their small tank and put it up on the hill by the drain field then have a smaller more easily accessible lid?
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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Daddymem

#31
The Zabel units replace the outlet tee in the septic tank.  They are fairly long so no, they would not fit in a d-box.  The tank they have would be a great retrofit, but why buy that if you can put it right in a new tank?  They really make the most sense on the outlet of the septic tank beacuse they are made to filter out the solids and only let the liquid parts of your effluent into the leaching area.  The lids should be brought to the surface over the filters, but a shallow installed concrete cover also works (remember 1-3 feet of cover ;D)  They have a nice t-handle extension kit that will make pulling the filter out a ton easier and a wash down with a simple garden hose (right back into the tank) is all the maintenance they need.  We specify them for every single septic system we do from the single family home systems all the way up beyond the 10,000 gpd systems.
Où sont passées toutes nos nuits de rêve?
Aide-moi à les retrouver.
" I'm an engineer Cap'n, not a miracle worker"

http://littlehouseonthesandpit.wordpress.com/

Daddymem

#32
Here is a list from our state of "approved" effluent tee filters.  
://www.mass.gov/dep/brp/wwm/files/it/effluent.htm
 Of course an "unapproved" one probably works fine, these are just ones that jumped through the hoops to wear their badge of honor.  I only use Zabel because they are readily available for us, I bet they are not the cheapest.
Où sont passées toutes nos nuits de rêve?
Aide-moi à les retrouver.
" I'm an engineer Cap'n, not a miracle worker"

http://littlehouseonthesandpit.wordpress.com/

glenn kangiser

That made it a little more clear - it goes into the second chamber of the septic tank and chunks fall to the bottom- staying out of the effluent leaving the tank.  We have already installed the plastic 1000 gal. tank - I should easily be able to meet the 1 to 3 foot cover requirement.  It's all exposed so will be no problem.  I'll suggest putting it in.  Thanks for the info.  I actually had to work yesterday -( air arcing off brackets manufactured wrong and putting new ones in the right place- detailer error)-  but should get back on this project next week.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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glenn kangiser

So --a few points working on several septic systems recently in our area--

1.Where you have seasonal groundwater moving through, the bottom of your drain field must be at least 5 feet above it.

2.  Slight swales -you need to be at least 25 feet from where the high water mark is - unless the inspector decides it is a seasonal stream then that could go out to 100 feet.

3.  Inspector will design the system to have about 350 square feet of trench sidewall per bedroom counting the area of both sides of (trench) the rock in the leach field.  Infiltrators are slightly different in length of trench.  Supposedly engineered for more weight than a rock trench, but 10 yard dump trucks are not necessarily privy to the engineering specs, and sometimes fall through infiltrators.

I don't have the code to refer to - anyone knowing more - feel free to post or clarify it.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.