20' ish x 32' ish Cabin - Kansas

[Don_P]

I think the preferred method for a kneewall area is now to insulate up the wall and then follow the roofline, including the area behind the kneewall in the insulated envelope. For moisture, heat is going to drive it from hot to cold, don't let it leak from the outside, let it dry to the inside, and keep an eye on the interior relative humidity and temperature with a hi-low hygrometer/thermometer or monitor. Then do what it takes to keep it down in drying conditions inside, whether passive venting, dehumidifier or a little bit of heat and vent.

I'm not sure of the advantage of the framing below the loft. If that had been platform framed with an ~8' wall with the floor on top it would have a firebreak between wall and floor, the top plates, then the floor would have been framed on the top plates, no jacks needed, and the roof on the floor or on a plate on the floor... yes getting that plate well connected to the floor below can be a challange in conventional framing but with trusses the heeljoint load isn't there to the same extent.

Is there something reinforcing the hinge at the top plate in the gable wall opposite the loft? I think that's the end I'm looking at in the pic with your daughter by the 3' front door in the open room. That joint needs some form of lateral reinforcement.

[ryanlane55]

I think the preferred method for a kneewall area is now to insulate up the wall and then follow the roofline, including the area behind the kneewall in the insulated envelope. For moisture, heat is going to drive it from hot to cold, don't let it leak from the outside, let it dry to the inside, and keep an eye on the interior relative humidity and temperature with a hi-low hygrometer/thermometer or monitor. Then do what it takes to keep it down in drying conditions inside, whether passive venting, dehumidifier or a little bit of heat and vent.

I'm not sure of the advantage of the framing below the loft. If that had been platform framed with an ~8' wall with the floor on top it would have a firebreak between wall and floor, the top plates, then the floor would have been framed on the top plates, no jacks needed, and the roof on the floor or on a plate on the floor... yes getting that plate well connected to the floor below can be a challange in conventional framing but with trusses the heeljoint load isn't there to the same extent.

Is there something reinforcing the hinge at the top plate in the gable wall opposite the loft? I think that's the end I'm looking at in the pic with your daughter by the 3' front door in the open room. That joint needs some form of lateral reinforcement.

So you think I need to insulate the 9' exterior wall and then just follow the truss........don't worry about insulating the knee wall?  Am I understanding you correctly?

In regards to the framing I think I know what you mean, but I was trying to maximize ceiling height on the main level and maximize ceiling height in the loft.  Do you feel like what I have done is okay?  I am not familiar with some of the terminology you are using in your second paragraph above.  The main level interior walls are framed to the bottom of the loft floor.  I am not familiar with what you mean about "platform" framed.

Lastly you ask about reinforcing the hinge at the top plate in the gable.  Is the hinge you mention where the gable truss meets the top plate?  I planned on using OSB on most of the interior because I am using old barn siding or some pine/cedar I picked up cheap cheap.  If I bridge the wall-to-truss connection with the sheathing will that not help with lateral?  If that is not adequate what would be a good remedy?  Does the loft side not need something due to the loft framing and knee walls helping with lateral pressure from that side? 

Sorry for the questions but I am not real familiar as I mentioned with some terminology when it comes to wood/residential framing. 

[ryanlane55]

I just did a quick google search on the gable end and now understand entirely what you mean about this creating a "hinge".  There is a lot of information out there on this topic.  Now I see that what I have is what is said not to do.  Basically avoiding a flat bottom chord gable end when adjacent trusses have sloped bottom chords (i.e. scissor truss in my case) as this creates a "hinge" at the wall/gable interface that is difficult to impossible to brace.  It would of been better to just have scissor trusses at the ends as well and frame to the bottom of those..............

now that is not possible so.........what would be the best way to attempt and brace these gable ends.  My vertical members of the gable trusses are 2x4's turned perpendicular to the top plate, so I can add more vertical members "sistered" to the one in place now.  That will put the members of the gable truss in the same plane with the inside of the 2x6 top plate.  I could then use metal strapping and bridge the wall stud to gable end truss intersection.  I can also add more lateral bracing from the scissor trusses to the gable end truss.  Structural sheathing that bridges this intersection certainly wouldn't hurt either??? In lieu of using OSB as mentioned in my earlier post?

At the loft end I am going to have additional framing at the knee walls that will create individual bunk areas for the kids.  This added framing and knee walls that area already there should provide a considerable amount of lateral support for the gable end truss on that side.  One of the bunks is going to be right at that window on the gable end.  Maybe it is not conventional or engineered but I am thinking it will be adequate support to resist the wind pressure at the gable end at the loft.

What else could I do at the open area?

[Don_P]

The loft end is laterally braced across that joint by the loft floor. The sheathed floor acts like a deep beam laying horizontally.

One way I've braced these is with a "plant shelf" that runs from side wall to side wall, well attached to them that is the bearing, across the hinge. A beam across the inside of the gable wall. If you want to make that beam stronger, another beam coming off the loft floor to the midpoint of the gable wall would stiffen it considerably. Mentally rotate the wall and look at it like a floor, the wind rather than people are creating the load. If you broke floor joists in midspan it would be over a beam, it's basically the same thing here. Somewhere in Astidham's thread there are pics and an explanation.

What you have done for the interior walls is platform framing. Frame a floor, frame the walls, set the next floor, set the second floor walls, ceiling joists and rafters. Balloon frame studs run from sill or floor to upper top plate, unbroken, with second floor on a "ribbon ledger" that is let into the studs. You've done a form of balloon framing. It is fine structurally, I think it added work and wood unneccessarily.

Yes , the current thinking is to foam the envelope, so wall right to roof. I don't know that i always agree with that but in this situation I think that would be right.

[speedfunk]

very    trusses . how that top  board hangs over wall framing. Would look good exposed as well.

[ryanlane55]

I have searched online and on here and not finding exactly what I am looking for in regards to heating/cooling and the affects on the structure.

For my heating of the cabin I am doing 4 of these in the living room space all on a thermostat.  http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/heaters/electric-baseboard/electric-baseboard-heater-09954-240208v-1000-watts-48l-white?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=Cj0KEQiA99qnBRDnrYCkt4ClzZABEiQAvqPaLJKBUhinh17zcysMKLflcsMSaAuIN_MZ352BMeed3-UaAgbl8P8HAQ

In the bedroom will be a 500W 240V 32" baseboard, and then the same thing in the bathroom.  These will have a integral thermostat on themselves. 

My plan would be for winter time when we are not there to set the thermostat at 40-50 degrees or something like that and then turn it up when we get there.  I have family closer to the cabin then we are that could turn it up to a comfortable temperature the morning of us getting there.

As for cooling we are just going to run a window unit in the living space and possibly a much smaller one in the loft portion if we end up thinking it is necessary.  For the cooling, I would set the window unit to 80-85 degrees when we are not there. 

Thinking along these lines, is this going to create any moisture issues.  From the research I have done, there are so many varying opinions on this and the dos/don'ts.

The good thing about the base board heaters that is unlike a wood/pellet stove is the temperature rise is not going to be rapid.  It will be much slower............so the moisture that will try to make it's way to the cold (exterior walls) will not do it rapidly and the temperature of the space will increase as will the walls themselves.........my thinking is the condensation won't occur on the walls that way.

It is the summers I am more concerned about and if what I have kind of map out above is okay???  Thoughts???

Thanks




Got the stairs done.  Not exactly what I envisioned but as they progressed this is what I ended with, they are basically to code which I don't need but for little kids they will be very safe this
way. 

[Don_P]

The half step onto the landing is probably going to cause trouble, watch how people fare on it before going any further. I've had to remake a few sets. The first time I had to rip a set out they ended up in the weeds behind the local tavern... hiding the evidence and soothing my battered young pride  . The heel of the upper set is hanging unsupported, it really needs something under it. If you follow the grain from the deepest part of the notch for the first set down to the landing and then how much meat is left supported with the bottom hanging you'll see why it is good to support the entire heel.

AC is a good way to dehumidify the air in summer, you're ok for winter if the power bill is tolerable, it should be fine. Electric heat is expensive so it pays back to insulate and seal well.

[pmichelsen]

The half step onto the landing is probably going to cause trouble, watch how people fare on it before going any further.

Exactly. My wife's father just bought a cabin and the stairs going up to the deck have something similar and I swear I almost fall every time I walk up or down them. I told him my first order of business is to rip them off and do them right.

[ryanlane55]

Starting to get a lot of the finishes in now.  I can see the light. 
I did r-30 batt in the ceiling and then hung the unfinished wooden bead board.  At the butt-joints I took some log cabin pine siding, cut the lap and gap off each side and used it like beams.  I got the pine log cabin stuff for free from a guy so instead of spending $$ on something I used it.  Serves the purpose.  I am also going to use it for the window trim. 



In the bedroom I got did car-siding and then trimmed it out with cedar.  The car siding is #3 pine, which means it has a lot of imperfections but I actually like it a lot.  The cedar is true 1" thick x 5.5".  I used it for the window returns and then used it also for the window trim.  Smooth side out.  The car siding and cedar I got at a building materials auction for about 20% of what it would cost new.  I don't have $150 in all the car siding and cedar for this room.  I think it turned out great. 



In the big open area I did all lap and gap cedar.  The same guy who gave me the pine log cabin stuff also gave me enough of this to do the slider door and front door walls.  I am also doing the stair wall in it as well. 

[ryanlane55]

Finishes going strong.  MOving for work so been going hard on the weekends to try and finish up before we move a couple hours away.





Loft is pretty much 100%.  Used the panoramic from the phone, so looks a little weird.  The bead board is the same color, lighting makes the pony walls and ceiling board look different colors.



Tile is done, just needs wiped off. 

[ryanlane55]

A pic standing on the loft looking to the open area.

[ryanlane55]

And another.  Picked up 64 of these spindles for $10 at a garage sale.  Gonna put them up like this was a top piece of cedar.  Then cover the bottom with Cedar also.  Using my last piece of pine log siding and sliding the spindle into the lap side, ripped the "gap" side off for the bottom to line up with the kitchen ceiling.

[ryanlane55]

Got the loft whooped.......very happy with it!

[new land owner]

Looks good

[nailit69]

Looking really good... nice work.

[Str8arrow]

Awesome work.

[ryanlane55]

Pretty well wrapped it up............still a kitchen backsplash to do.........and need to paint the exterior but here she is. 



























I have a small window unit AC in the loft and the bedroom.  I also had a portable 12,000 BTU unit sitting in the living area that I didn't even need to use over the 4th of July with the other two running.  The R30 in the roof, R19 in walls, and R30 in the floor and it being sealed up really well makes for an efficient structure.  Love being there.........wife and I joke about just packing up and moving there and enjoying the simple life......

[John Raabe]

Nice project!

Insulation - the gift that keeps on giving.

[pmichelsen]

Love being there.........wife and I joke about just packing up and moving there and enjoying the simple life......

My better half and I have been tossing that idea out as well. Place looks great.

[ryanlane55]

Almost forgot the best part