Underground engineering specs.

Started by cthedford, May 14, 2006, 10:32:31 PM

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cthedford

I found this site and I am exctatic. I have been reading these posts and they are great. I have so many questions and responses, I dont know where to start. I love the post on the underground cooling tubes, as a matter of fact I read a book that said that is how the Egyptian royalty kept there palaces cool. I have been looking into those for about 3 years. My question though is I cant find any book to answer the questions I have about the span and loads of underground houses. Of course I have flound some plans for underground houses, but if I want to build my own where can I find the specs on how large a beam for a certain span to hold a certain depth and weight of earth above. Thanks I will leave it at that to try to make it short  
 

cthedford

Just wanted to add that although I live in Chicago, IL.. I have purchased 127 acres in the Missouri Ozarks. This is where I plan to build and move to in about 8-10 years. I say this only, so those that have answers to my question have an idea about the average climate and soil type.    


glenn kangiser

#2
There are rule of thumb engineering tables in Mike Oehler's book, "The $50 and Up Underground House".  The tables were designed by an engineer so there is a good safety margin built in.

You will have to decide what an adequate footing is based on your soil conditions.  If you have codes to deal with there are lots of unanswered issues besides holding up the roof.  It is possible you could build one of these houses to code but it will be expensive and probably not practical.

http://www.farmersmarketonline.com/UnderGroundHousing.htm

The $50 and Up Underground House Book available direct from Mole Publishing in Bonners Ferry Idaho on farmers market online
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

cthedford

Thanks, thats one of the books I dont have. I have been asking for the the book and videos for a gift for Christmas, my birthday etc.. I will have to break down and buy it though. My family thinks its too way out there for them to buy. They keep thinking eventually I will become normal. It aint gonna happen. I have been reading feed back about the book and see that some people are saying he builds too cheaply, living with dirt floors etc.. I am not looking to spend a million dollars, but I would rather spend a thousand dollars on a gauranteed leak proof roof then 150 dollars in plastic roofing. I am having a hard enogh time trying to get my wife to live into an underground house, so it is going to have to be a reliable airy beautiful house. I am trying to incorporate several different building methods, while still keeping the luxuries she is used to

glenn kangiser

That is not a problem-- you can upgrade all you want to once you learn the basics.  Mike now recommends EPDM roofing membrane which will take much more of your money.  Check out Lodestar's (Bruce) information and incorporate his ideas too.  He goes for a bigger umbrella covering which is a very good idea.

Mike said he has to write a book for a more expenive underground house because no one takes him seriously.  I've been in mine for 4 years now.  

His methods are the cheapest and make the most sense.  If you are serious get the book and tapes.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


cthedford

Thanks, I totally aggree. I wasnt disputing his methods only telling you what I have read about his book. I will definatly order his book and videos tomorrow on pay day. As long as he has the specs on load and size of beams, that is where I need the help. I can build or fix most anything but, I am terrible with math.

glenn kangiser

The specs are there.  Loads are not reduced at the sides for a half span so you can expand without fear of overloading the framing.  Before you get going let me know your plans and I will clue you in to whatever I have learned that may help.  (Same full strength framing throughout).
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.