trying to plan a little cabin

Started by fishonmyline, April 12, 2006, 08:47:54 PM

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hy(Guest)

I just found this site and in reading your posting I noticed that you are located in ontario.  We have a project on the go at www.blueskymod.com that might be of interest to you.  We are designing some newer models in the near future that will be posted and sent to subscribers....hope this is of interest and helpful

fishonmyline

I just had a logical and simple idea.  Because it'll take me days to dig like 6 holes, I might as well ask a neighbour to dig them.  That way I can concentrate on the building of it and not so much the "digging the whole" aspect.  I'm sure someone will be willing to earn a few extra bucks.  As for the plans, I'm still not sure how large I want it or need it.  I think 10x10 should be a good size.  Does anyone have a 10x10 shed?  Is it large enough to store your fishing rods and canoe accessories and such?  maybe some tools too?  Thank


bartholomew

#27
If your site really is on the moraine then the soil should be very well drained and you probably don't have to worry about frost heave. Is this basically what you're thinking of?


Read more by our host John here...
http://countryplans.com/foundation/index.html

You can also read about how another builder did his shallow foundation (scroll about halfway down the page)...
http://www.countryplans.com/nash.html

Are you planning to store your canoe in the shed? A 10x10 shed might get you 13' from corner to corner. I think most canoes are over 15'.

Amanda_931

If you've mostly got sand, you might even be able to do the 45 minutes/hole actually using the post hole digger to dig the holes.  So that six holes would take you a long day, including lunch and cussing time, and tell you that you hadn't used those muscles enough to do that without a bit of delayed onset muscle soreness.

My guess is that most of your neighbors would share your opinion about hand digging holes.

Not sure if renting a ditch witch (at in this area over a hundred bucks a half day) would be much of an improvement.

railroad_bob

There's nothing like doing it yourself to know exactly what you are dealing with. Personally, I would jab a shovel in and see what I had, then I would know  how tuff the digging is, and whether I would need hand tools or equipment, or, if I hired it, how much I should pay. You would be surprised what you can do with a post hole digger and a bar and shovel. Especially since you are familiar with drywall and flooring, that stuff is no picnic...


railroad_bob

Additionally, if you look at the drawing in post #27, you'll see that any hole for this style foundation does not need to be very deep, especially if your terrain is fairly level. As a matter of fact, if your location is level, you could probably get away with placing pavers and a pier right on the ground. If so, you would need more steps to get up to floor level, of course.

Also, once you start laying out the foundation locations, you may decide that you want to adjust the size of the building.

Jochen

QuoteWell, I'm from Canada and the area that I plan to build is an "Oak Ridge Morraine" which means that I can't build on it.  Only 1 house, which will come later on.  Right now I just need a mini shelter/storage building.  I was thining of doing gravel and cement blocks because technically it doesn't have a foundation and I "could" move it.

But has anyone tried to shovel out the holes for a pier?  Is it doable without an auger?

Hi, I'm also from Canada and I used a shovel and pickaxe when I built the foundation for my 20' x 24' Cottage. http://www.countryplans.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1104351466/0   It is doable but....!!!! for my 24' x 24' workshop extension I contacted a local contractor and paid him $300 Canadian.
Jochen

fishonmyline

Thank you all for the awsome feedback.  I'm thinking of just hand digging them or doing a pier style.  Both seem like very good ideas.  Seeing as how it is sand, it sould be easy to dig to some degree.  I guess all I have to do now is plan it out and then grab a shovel to see if it is doable.  Thank you everyone for explaining how to do the foundation.

But another question I have.  If it next to a pond and it gets slightly moist in that area, how would I air out the place to reduce mold?  Would airing it out once a week be enough?  or should I leave windows open?

peg_688

[size=12]If it's for storage like you've said and the stuff freezing is not a problem . Why not just put in a vent strip , or vents down low and put a ridge vent at the peak of the roof .  

 In this  case , as I see what your discribing,   air movement from the bottom to the top should take care of any moisture by not allowing it to have a chance to build up.  

 One type of vent .  
 [/size]


 
 http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/products/intake-soffit.shtml

 [size=12]   This could be incorperated into a siding detail , or this type  

   or something like this .

   Roof vents , either core vent like this

 

or this ,

 

 http://www.semetals.com/Ventilation.html

 Take your pick  :)  

 Good luck , PEG

   
[/size]


fishonmyline

LOL.  PEG, that is an awsome idea.  I didn't think of that.  From all of your input I think I will have a shed up this summer.  Just need the weather to get a bit warmer.

Another question for all you professionals, could I put in a woodburning stove to heat the little shed?  Or is it too heavy?  I was thinking of just putting another pier right under it.  I would like to sit in there in the winter to warm up from ice fishing.

Amanda_931

They tell me that cheap woodstoves are,  ummm, how shall I put it, [size=22]cheap[/size].

short-lived, wood-gobbling, leaky, etc.

Just fine if you want to mostly use it as a place to put a vase with flowers.

Or, just maybe, build up a quick fire to warm up after ice fishing not very many times a year.  The wood-gobbling and leaky characteristics could mean that it will heat up your shed fast.

I've used both kerosene and tiny propane heaters, might do so again.

But if those two fuels go through the roof then you might be best off with a woodstove.  I gather that those designed as cookstoves heat--at least the tops--quickly.  


glenn-k

A good little wood stove with good dry wood -even one of the old tin ones is good enough to overpower almost any cold.  If you get one with a flat top and a side door that opens you can cook and barbecue in it too.

bil2054

Harbor Freight usually has a small cast iron box stove for under $200, front loader, two hottles.
For occaisional use I think this would be great.  Take a look at some of the stoves for boating use, too.  Some of them are so cute, people start thinking about buying a boat just so they have the excuse. (Okay, it was me, but I'm a people! [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif])

glenn-k

You are the only guy I know who lusts after a cute piece of cast iron with two hotties, Billy Bob. :) :-/


keyholefarmhouse

Just a thought.

Ice fisherman, power auger, sandy soil.  Lets see, twenty minutes and your holes will be dug.

fishonmyline

hahaha...does make sense, BUT I dont have one just yet.  I usually go with buddies and we do it pre-motorized auger style, by hand.  we spin and spin and spin with our hands.  good idea though.  i should ask around if anyone has an auger...

PEG688

 [size=12] FOML : Ya can't soil a ice auger on dirt can ya  :-/ It just ain't right  ::)  

 Just kidding although I'd think a ice auger would want to be sharper. I used to use a long bar to chop my ice holes , gee that almost sounds like something that shouldn't be said on a family forum  :o :o

 Back in RI I used to ice fish , mostly for bass , perch , pickerel (sort of a small pike ). One of the few things I miss about cold weather , ice fishing  ;D  

 We could use up to 5 tilts ,  something like these ,

 

    :o :o  31" Cross Jack Trap with 4" Reel     $36.00   :o :o    

mine where older , I gave them to a cousin when I joined the navy , MTL the tilts are worth something now , as they where old when I got them and that was 30 years ago .

Anyway do you fish with tilts or with a jigging pole ? And what's the main catch?

 PEG

  [/size]
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

glenn kangiser

#42
Quote  [size=12]  I used to use a long bar to chop my ice holes , gee that almost sounds like something that shouldn't be said on a family forum  :o :o



  [/size]

[size=20]You're really covering your tail pretty good, PEG.  Not even giving me a chance. [/size] :-/ :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.

PEG688

[size=12]    Cover six , Roger ;)   [/size]  
When in doubt , build it stout with something you know about .

fishonmyline

I actually just started ice fishing and it's amazing.  This winter we went mostly for perch and lake trout.  Both are awsome eats.   ;)


keyholefarmhouse

If my soil was real sandy vs. rocky or clay, I'd have at it.
Don't let your fishing buddies see you.
Perch are most extremly excellent.

In SD we use ultra light weight jigging poles.
Catch nine pounders

fishonmyline(Guest)

hahaha...I should tell them that I am changing the blade on the auger and then just beat up the one we have now.  ahhahaha...perch are excellent all year round.  An untralight rod with a jig.  This has turned into a fishing forum.  Sorry...

I will soon be on my way to building this hut.  Thank you everyone for your help.  

benevolance

Dunno about eating perch... pretty nasty fish...YUCK...Lake trout now...Yummy!

Best is to get Sea Trout in the spring when they come upstream....They are huge, tasty, easy to bone and cook...About everything you could ever want....Also a lot of fun to catch also! Catch one good size fish and you can feed half a dozen friends or family members...

Best of everything!