Missouri 16x32

[Scott MO]

Hello,

I've monitored this site for months now and have posted a couple of times.  This is the first time I've referenced my project.  Before doing anything further, I thought I'd tap the knowledge and suggestions of the CountryPlans members.

I'm building a 16x32 two-story in southern Missouri.  To date, I've completed up to the first floor subfloor. 
My mistake:  I used a line level for the piers.  I can offer various excuses, but suffice to say my piers did not turn out as I planned.  Starting from left to right, the piers drop by about 6 inches.  The same is true of the opposite side piers.   

I'm concerned about side-to-side stability.  The girders are built up as described by John to a 6x10 dimension.  I used 2x6s laid flat to build up to level, but am worried about the structure rolling off the piers.  Would you suggest I add another row of piers, properly heighted, a few feet inside the rows, or would diagonal supports from the girders to the joists suffice?

I'm anxious to continue, but would rather fix my mistake now for fear of continuing with an unsafe project.  Any and all suggestions are appreciated and thanks in advance.

[TheWire]

I'm not sure whether you can change out the 2x6 blocks you have making up the change in level.  If you can, I would replace them with solid pieces of PT 4x6 or 6x6 ripped to fit.  Then get some 3/4" PT plywood and rip it to fit from the tops of the piers to the top of your 6x10s or even to the top of your rim board.  This will be a tapered piece to deal with the change in level.  Then smear the 6x10s and the new PT leveling blocks with waterproof building adhesive and nail, with hot dipped or stainless nails, the PT plywood strips to the inside and outside of each of your 6x10s & leveling blocks.

You can do this with the blocks you have, but they are not PT and unfastened pieces may not be as strong as a solid block.

I would think this would remove any ability for the building to roll off the beams, plus it would somewhat conceal the leveling blocks.  X-bracing may work also, but I'm not sure where you can connect the bottoms.

Jerry

[PEG688]

#1: How deep into the ground are the piers?


#2: Are the piers plumb? They appear to be leaning to the right , but that may be the camera angle.

#3: If the piers are deep , say 4' or more into the ground and have been back-filled and compacted properly.  In other words water settled , or packed as you back-filled, they  look like sono tubes , did you bore holes with a auger or did you dig a bigger hole then back fill?


#4: IF you sure the piers are plumb and solid I'd recommend.

Rent a jack and slightly jack  at each post , one at a time, and replace those blocks with one 6x6 post that cut to the right length and use a  AC66 post cap to attach the post top to the beam and the saddle that it appears you have set in the pier top / concrete.

A properly cut, attached and plumb post under your beams is the right way to do that.

You could also run your sheathing  down to the bottom of  lowest point / post to tie the post to the beam and the beam to the walls .

Yes that sheathing would hang below the beam on the higher side , but more than likely you'll be doing some sort of skirting to close the under floor off anyway and you can tie that skirting into the sheathing.   

[ListerD]

Scott - Where in Missouri? The picture kind of looks like the Licking area (we're over in Grovespring south of Lebanon)


I like PEGs solution FWIW. You'll probably end up placing skirting anyway to keep the critters out.

[Scott MO]

Thanks very much Jerry and PEG for your suggestions.

PEG:
#1 - Piers are in from 1.5' to 3.5'.  Could not get any deeper due to ledge / rock.  I plan to have 6 more loads of fill brought in to further stabilize the piers and fill in the interior.  I've considered adding a third row of piers down the center...not sure if that would be overkill, though.
#2 - Good eye.  Two piers are slightly leaning to the right.  The others are true.
#3 - I hand dug the holes...had to use a wrecking bar to dig out the fractured granite.  The holes are not round, in most cases.  I had to dig around rocks that I couldn't dislodge.  I filled the holes with quikrete and set the tubes on top with rebar extending in the hole.
#4 - I took your and Jerry's suggestion and jacked up the structure to replace the 2x6s (which were laid flat) with 6x6 cut to height.  I then secured the 6x6 to the girder with brackets in front, and then used flat plats to secure the back side from the bottom bracket (bolted to the pier), to the 6x6, and then the girder.

Here's an updated picture showing the repair described above:



I'll need about 6 more loads of fill to stabilize the area.



I was going to build a 2-story cabin, but seeing a neighbors trouble (below) with high winds from remnants of Hurricane Ike is making me reconsider that idea.  There is always wind on the mountain and a 2-story may have too much sail area for a 16'-wide structure.



ListerD, the area is just north of Annapolis in Iron County.

[glenn kangiser]

Rocks that are in place and ledge rock are likely as strong or stronger than concrete.  Even though those are concrete piers they can be drilled with a rotohammer and anchors put in for wood or steel braces if you like -- then you could diagonal brace from near ground with treated wood or steel up to the beams or joists.

No need for more fill then.

[ListerD]

Wow! Way east of where I thought you were!

Great view!

[Redoverfarm]

Scott if it is built correctly a 2nd story would not make a difference.  When I look at the photo of the neighbors it appears that this was mid construction stage with maybe only 2-3 walls completed.  Maybe 1-2 were not built yet. Doesn't appear to be any outside bracing probbaly only 2-3 2X's to the inside deck floor. That would be like hanging an umbrella out in a wind storm.  The temporary walls act just like pockets to catch the air.  Once the walls are solid, windows in, roof on it shouldn't be a problem.

[ScottA]

Yeah the walls are very vulnerable to wind until the roof is built and decked. I wouldn't worry about building a 2 story. It will be plenty strong when it's done. Just use lots of braces while building.

[Scott MO]

Thanks for the advice, all.  The neighbor had bracing, but I see your point where the shell acted like a sail and without enough bracing just tumbled down.

Good idea Glenn on the bracing.  That would allow me to continue using the underside for storage and plumbing access.