Flooring Options

[jb52761]

I had to install a subfloor off of the concrete slab in the old fishing cabin I'm rebuilding, for several reasons. I built the floor up with 2x's and 1/2 inch plywood to get it off of the concrete slab, and so that 8 foot studs would fit for the wall studs,otherwise it would have meant 10' studs with alot of waste. Finished that before winter set in, seems to be ok, got the wall studs and insulation set, so now I am looking into actual flooring options. A few areas are not perfectly level, and I do NOT want carpet. What do you guys think about applying ceramic tile or something on top of the subfloor, vinyl maybe, wood slats?? What do you think...would ceramic be more prone to cracking if a piece was not level on one side but ok on the other, when walked on ? I'm not talking a BIG difference, just a variance in the subfloor here and there...just weighing my options before making a purchase..... :-/

[John_M]

If you look at a ceramic tile...it has absolutely no give whatsoever.  You would need to lay down some cement fiberboard which might be able to level you out a little bit.  Most tile companies want you to have about an inch to and inch and a half subfloor down for their tiles so there is no give.  The cement board gives your subfloor some water protection as well.

If the floor is uneven, I would think that sticky tiles or rolled linoleum would be your best bet.  They have a lot of higher end products that look great too!!

You could also go with a laminate floor (they float, so there is no need to adhere them to the floor)

Just my opinion...

[Amanda_931]

Somebody in one of the magazines has used roll roofing (the kind with no part without sand and gravel) glued down, painted with a few layers of latex paint! Relatively slip resistant, and since all but the top layer of paint is out of the mis-tint bins--maybe even the top one--the price closes in on right.

Or say to heck with it and just put down a second layer of plywood--opposite direction if possible) and call it the floor.

or half-lap whatever the local guys have in the way of hardwood.  Painted white even rough cut mixed wood would look nice--and very very rustic.  

[Daddymem]

The Forever Floor.
Wallpaper flooring was interesting to me at one time too.

[Amanda_931]

That's the one I was thinking of.  

I can even think of uses for it.

"Wallpaper flooring"  decoupaged with a clear layer on top?

(in both cases if the surface is not pretty durned smooth and quiet--not moving around, not saying nothing about putting psycedelic posters on the floor--it's going to crack--the roll roofing probably worse than the wallpaper, just because it's thicker.)

[Ailsa C. Ek]

The Forever Floor.
Wallpaper flooring was interesting to me at one time too.

Oooh, neat!  Yet another project for my round tuit list (for the next house, I think, not the one we're selling).  

[jb52761]

Thanks all...I'm thinkin' probably sticky vinyl tiles, but the Forever Floor idea has me intrigued...hmmm...has anyone actually tried this ? I would be willing to do it. I like the examples in the photographs on the website. Sounds fairly easy to do if you are patient. Ofcourse, I WILL be a Patient, in an institution before I'm done with this place...

[Daddymem]

Wallpaper floors is from the Not So Big House books...too lazy to look up which one but the person who did it chose it for temporary and it worked so well they kept it.  I was thinking of rasterbating images (easy glenn) and using that instead of wallpaper.
Now...anyone got some different counter top treatments? We were thinking concrete and thought cast in place, but all we read says not a good idea but the reasoning is usually due to fancy finishing they planned on doing. Anyone?

[glenn kangiser]

I guess you can make them really big if you rasterbate them, huh, Daddymem?

We put ceramic tile over the wood floor in our other house-- with t&g flooring underneath you put a vinyl slipsheet under them (like linoleum) so the wood can expand and contract without tearing up the tile. Other than that it is about the same as normal tiling on cement or cement board.  The thinset will take up some of the irregularities.

[Okie Bob(Guest)]

Isn't 1/2 plywood a bit too light for subflooring? You are going to get way too much flex for ceramic tile, in my humble opinion. Surprised no one has mentioned this.
Okie Bob

[Jimmy C.]

Isn't 1/2 plywood a bit too light for subflooring? You are going to get way too much flex for ceramic tile, in my humble opinion. Surprised no one has mentioned this.
Okie Bob

Solution to the flexing floor and ceramic tile issue:
Try using 1"x 1" or various small ceramic tiles using a flexible grout.    
They are glued on to a 12"x 12" paper sheet to make installation much faster

[John Raabe]

Since this floor is going in on sleepers 1/2" might be OK if the span is no more than 12". For 16" you would normally want a 3/4" subfloor. Most tile setters would then want wonderboard or similar cement board underlayment on top of the subfloor before doing thin set ceramic tile.

[Amanda_931]

I didn't get the idea of sleepers over the 2x and a first layer of 1/2 inch plywood.  Thinking just a second layer of plywood directly over the first.

Tiny tiles would be a good idea over a kind of iffy floor.

But it might be a good idea to make it possible to get into that lower area--mold remediation, etc.  e.g. removable strips at each end of the 2x's

[jb52761]

As far as the 2x floor goes that I put in, the long 2x's are laid 24' on center across the slab, and then I boxed in 2x's about every 14 to 16 inches all the way across between those, so to create a giant checkerboard under the ply. Not a professional here folks, but seems to be sturdy and holding up. Already have some furnishings on it and put in a wood stove in November, floor seems sturdy, and where the kitchen furnishings are to go, I added 2x's alot closer to compensate for the weight of cabinets, stove, etc...and the mold issue amanda mentioned, I haven't had a prob as of yet. The whole floor isn't touching the walls at all, it is laid about 6 inches from all sides, then the studs run up from that and connect to more studs screwed into the trusses, so there is air movement going under flooring and between interior and concrete exterior. Sure hope that works. Any other suggestions ?

[John Raabe]

It appears JB has the 2x sleepers at 24" o/c sitting on the slab and then has boxed these in with variable spaced blocking to make structural squares. This will stiffen the 1/2" subfloor and may be sufficient. Understanding this, I concur with Oakie Bob's suggestions. It will probably work and the small tiles will help hide tiny cracks in the grout.

If the money is available you could always add a second layer of 1/2" ply or wonderboard to insure a stiffer floor less likely to crack.

I do wonder what will happen if you have a big plumbing leak and saturate this floor.   - Does it have a way to drain and dry out?

[jb52761]

John...as far as water leaks, right now there is no water sourse at all. When I started the project, the old cabin was here, complete with bathroom, etc...but I gutted the entire place, including the water lines, electrical wires, everything. All I had left was a giant concrete box (bomb shelter  )...anyhooo, when I get to the new water lines, they will enter from the north side and go into the small utility room, which is still bare concrete. The bathroom area is right next to this area, and it also is still concrete. Any water I get in this area will run due east, under the 2x support by the door, and outside. The only area I will need to watch would be the kitchen sink. That area will be on the new subfloor.

[jb52761]

I meant to add, the sink, its water lines and drain will be about 3 to 4 feet from the utility room floor, so not much of a plumbing run will be extended into the area with the new subfloor. If all else fails, I'll grab my canoe and head for the door... 8-)