Protecting Unfinished Cabin this Winter

Started by Davegmc, June 11, 2012, 01:40:35 PM

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Davegmc

I've started building a 24 x 32 cabin. I'm building out of pocket on weekends. My goal this summer is to get footings, foundation wall, footing drainage, backfill, and floor framing completed before winter. I realize this is not very desirable but I would like to frame the floor (joists, midspan beam, etc.) and put the plywood deck on and then try to keep the deck dry over the winter. I want to do this for 2 reasons, to keep water out of my crawlspace area so the spread footings can't settle and also so I can pick up with wall framing next spring (with the hope of getting dried-in by next fall). I remember seeing a picture on this forum where a guy did that and had the deck tarped off. I am in a snow area. I'm thinking if I primed the top ot the plywood deck and then installed a heavy tarp I might be able to keep it dry. Any thoughts or advice? I realize most of you would advise me not to start the framing until I am in a position to finish before winter but I don't think I can complete the start to finish in one season.

Thank you in advance
Dave

Redoverfarm

Quote from: Davegmc on June 11, 2012, 01:40:35 PM
I've started building a 24 x 32 cabin. I'm building out of pocket on weekends. My goal this summer is to get footings, foundation wall, footing drainage, backfill, and floor framing completed before winter. I realize this is not very desirable but I would like to frame the floor (joists, midspan beam, etc.) and put the plywood deck on and then try to keep the deck dry over the winter. I want to do this for 2 reasons, to keep water out of my crawlspace area so the spread footings can't settle and also so I can pick up with wall framing next spring (with the hope of getting dried-in by next fall). I remember seeing a picture on this forum where a guy did that and had the deck tarped off. I am in a snow area. I'm thinking if I primed the top ot the plywood deck and then installed a heavy tarp I might be able to keep it dry. Any thoughts or advice? I realize most of you would advise me not to start the framing until I am in a position to finish before winter but I don't think I can complete the start to finish in one season.

Thank you in advance
Dave

Check in your area for Advantec subfloor by Huber.  http://huberwood.com/main.aspx?pagename=advantechflooring.  I left mine exposed for several months over the winter and snow laid on it until spring.  Several other members have used it as well. 


Squirl

I am in the same boat.

I second the advantech.  I am putting it down now.   

23/32 tongue and groove OSB was $15 a sheet.
23/32 tongue and groove plywood was $25 a sheet.
23/32 tongue and groove advantech was $25 a sheet.

I needed 20 sheets for my 20x30.  The plywood was out.  OSB is squarer, stiffer,  and the advantech won't warp for the same price.  So it would have cost me $200 more for the advantech over normal OSB.  For that I wouldn't have to worry about painting ($25) or buying $100 tarp.  I don't have to worry about it getting wet, rained on, covered while I am installing the walls, messing with an 800 square foot tarp, or rush the roofing.  So in my math for an extra $75 I could go without all that extra work and worry when building alone.  That was worth it to me.

beckhamk

I also used the advantec - its the best stuff out there. We built the cabin in the wetest spring we ever had and it never failed or warped. Its still rock solid as the day i purchased it.  Highly recommend it.

Davegmc

Thanks Gents! Sounds almost too good to be true. A few questions: Are these full 4x8 sheets so they work fine with 16" OC joists? Is the tongue and groove on the 8' edges only? Looks like you are supposed to space them apart slightly. So water will be able to freely go into my crawl space. That seems undesireable, or do you think I should not worry about water getting in there this winter? Guess I could caulk.

Thanks!
Dave


Squirl

Quote from: Davegmc on June 11, 2012, 03:30:04 PM
Thanks Gents! Sounds almost too good to be true. A few questions: Are these full 4x8 sheets so they work fine with 16" OC joists? Is the tongue and groove on the 8' edges only? Looks like you are supposed to space them apart slightly. So water will be able to freely go into my crawl space. That seems undesireable, or do you think I should not worry about water getting in there this winter? Guess I could caulk.

Thanks!
Dave

Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes.  I didn't worry about water in the crawl space.  I have no plastic down and foundation vents. I just pumped it out with a 12v bilge pump.  The purpose of a frost wall is to put the wall below the freezing point.  The soil around the wall will be saturated and freeze thaw. I wasn't worried about which side of the wall that happened to.

It will work with 16" O/C.  The big box stores around me only sell 23/32, which can span 24 inches.  Since your joists are spaced closer you could probably get away with a thinner sheet of floor sheathing, and advantech does make  1/2 and 19/32 panels.  Finding thinner sheets of any panels that are tongue and groove is hit or miss at the big box stores around me.

I had to load it in the rain on Saturday.  I installed it on Sunday and it was as if it never rained.  I also had a piece of 2x2 3/4 plywood left out on the joists.  It warped slightly.

I wonder how much water will drain in?  The 1/8 gap is over a joist.  I glued all my subflooring down too with subfloor glue.

Redoverfarm

Quote from: Davegmc on June 11, 2012, 03:30:04 PM
Thanks Gents! Sounds almost too good to be true. A few questions: Are these full 4x8 sheets so they work fine with 16" OC joists? Is the tongue and groove on the 8' edges only? Looks like you are supposed to space them apart slightly. So water will be able to freely go into my crawl space. That seems undesireable, or do you think I should not worry about water getting in there this winter? Guess I could caulk.

Thanks!
Dave

Dave they are 4'X8' (minus T&G demensions) sheets with the T&G side and ends.  I did not leave any space in mine at all. In fact if you left a space the T&G would be ineffective.   It would defeat the purpose to make it waterproof. Not sure of the make up probably something like parafin or wax I would figure.  I know it works and IMO is well worth the extra cost.  They recommend that you use Polyurethane glue to affix it to the joist with your fastner rather than regular construction adhesive.   

Like other sheet goods trhe demensions because of the T&G are not true 48" wide.  So you will be left with a sliver on one side or rip sheets to begin with to have a larger piece along the edge.

There is another product as well called Shurflur or Shurfloor which is also waterproof subfloor.  But it is my understanding that the surface (similar to masonite)is waterproof but it is only treated a short distance along the edges.  So if it is cut further than their treatment area it will absorb water. It is for this reason I chose Advantec rather than Shurfloor.

MountainDon

T&G sheathing joints are milled to provide the required spacing. Fit the sheets together firmly but do not use a 10 lb sledge to whack them tight as some folks have done. With the sheets together there may be a surface gap showing; that's okay.  If you have cut off scrap you can easily fit them together to see how the milling is done to provide what is necessary to take care of expansion. I thought I had a picture but can't locate it.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Don_P

I wouldn't dream of using a 10 lb sledge, we're delicate, I use an 8  :)
You can glue the joints or caulk the seams, I paint it with cheap garage or porch floor paint. Before finish floor we set offending nails and rent a floor sander to do a quick leveling.


SouthernTier

When I build my shed, I got the floor installed and that's all before winter set in.  I didn't use Advantec.

What I did to protect it was I went ahead and bought the steel that I was going to put on the roof.  I laid some 2x4 sleepers over the floor deck to provide some air space and then laid the steel over that, overlapping.  Then I put a tarp over that.  That kept the water off the deck and it survived the winter undamaged.