Warsaw Missouri- Truman Lake cabin build 24x34 w/loft

Started by dbeers02, October 13, 2014, 08:00:30 PM

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dbeers02

Newbie member. First time poster. Looked through a lot of cabin builds on here and elsewhere. Thought I would share my build.
I purchased some lots in Fairfield camp grounds that already had a small cabin on it.
Love the place and the people. The first cabin was already built. Its a 14x28 two room cabin.
The previous owner had a 24x34 concrete slab poured to build another cabin, but his job prevented him from spending time down there an as such the slab layed dormant for 6 years.
Here is my progress so far. I hope to have it "dryed in" before the nasty winter weather sets in so I can keep working on it over the winter.

This is going to be my retirement cabin when the time comes.

Plans are 24x34 partially open floor plan with a loft. I am doing this build by the seat of my pants with no real blueprints, just some scribbles on paper that are continually evolving. Me and my wife did agree on ONE thing so far- NO sheetrock at all and NO paint in the build with the exception of the colored metal roof I will be installing.

Enjoy. Feedback or suggestions are always welcome.

First pic of the small cabin that was already built when we purchased.



A couple views from the front of the small cabin.





Weekend 1 of the new build. A little progress, but it goes slow when it is just me and my 12 year old son helping. He is a lot of help too. Didn't get a lot done because we had to take a little fishing break.





Weekend 2 got some more accomplished.

My little helper working.






Weekend 3 plugging away at it.













Planning on going back this weekend to get "a little" work done, but its my anniversary and my wife has plans for us most of the weekend I believe.







GSPDOG

Looks good hopefully the weather has not been to brutal for you this weekend.
Thanks for Reading
Jim Brown


dbeers02

Weather has been Ok other that I don't think it is ever going to stop raining. Looks like it will be clear this weekend so hope to get some things done. I am trying to get the roof on before the snow starts flying if possible.

GSPDOG

btw forgetting my manners, welcome to the board a lot of good information and people here.  Though you and I may be the only Missouri builds here ;)
Thanks for Reading
Jim Brown

dbeers02

Managed to get a little work done lately. Got some floor joists/subfloor up for the loft. Dropped an @ 45 foot Cedar for my support post in the family room area. I went this tall to have enough diameter at the 22 foot height to support the ridge board. I hope this will eliminate the need for wall to wall beams to support roof load. My thoughts are the cut a "U" shaped cut at the correct height to support the ridge board which will be a 2x12 and will only be supporting about 18 open span with 2x8 rafters with 12/12 pitch on 2 foot centers. Going to be a metal roof so a lighter load than shingles. The large beams that are attached to the "tree" are Cedal 6x12's. This is where I will be attaching the whole logs as stair risers for the log staircase.
Hope to get the rest of the joists in place, subfloor completed and get to starting the ridge board, rafters started this weekend.



The tree dropped.


Red Cedar sure is beautiful.



Lot of work getting it up into place.The tree, beams, and some of the joists/subfloor in position.











John Raabe

Interesting solution for a future tree that might fall on the house!

You will have a pretty big concentrated load under that post. Is there a deeper and wider footing under it?
None of us are as smart as all of us.

Don_P

I saw you mentioned using a ridgeboard but didn't want ties across the open area. The ridge actually needs to be a beam in that situation. The minimum I'm getting to work from what I see is a double 11-7/8" LVL, the pocket on the open side of the post would need to be 3.5" wide. The supplier can double check the depth of LVL's needed. I debark things like that as soon as possible, the critters live in and just under the bark, even in cedar. Cedar looks really nice nekkid as well, the ripples around the buttresses will look nice.

GSPDOG

That is a nice cedar would like to see it debarked as well going to make a nice feature.
Thanks for Reading
Jim Brown

GSPDOG

One other thing I notice you will need "trimmers" some times called a "Queen Stud" for the window headers I see the king stud but no trimmers.  The header needs a support that carries the load from the header to the foundation.
Thanks for Reading
Jim Brown


dbeers02

When the cedar dries some more, I will peel it clean. I know I forgot the jack studs on the windows. I need to get them in.

As far at the ridge board.  I measure 12 foot span between the edge of the end wall and the starting edge of the trunk of the tree.
I will also add, collar ties on the rafters. I just don't want beams running along the tops of the plates. Wanting a more "vaulted" look.


It was a nice weekend here, in the 50's and 60's, but only a sliver of sun. At least it was dry.
Here is what I got accomplished this weekend. The rest of the floor joists and the subfloor on the loft area. Some more sheathing, and got one side of the ridge beam up and a few rafters. Now that I have the template, cutting the rest will be easy and fast. I was off on my measurement of the first one, so I made alterations, trimmed and fitted, to get the fit that I was happy with.

Also got a few more cedars dropped to build my log staircase and handrails. Its going to be full log stringers and 1/2 log steps.
Most of the interior will be cedar log, cedar plank or car pine. All logs will be peeled by hand, sanded and sealed with clear urethane.
The siding will be cedar tongue and groove boards milled to look like logs.
I hope it is very rustic looking.


If it not too cold next weekend, I may go back down and get some more rafters up. I am starting to get anxious to get it dried in so I can continue to keep chipping away on the inside.ie- wiring, plumbing,etc

Here is some pics











GSPDOG

Nice progress there, roof pitch gives me shivers mine is similar not quite as steep was fun putting the metal on. ;)
Thanks for Reading
Jim Brown

dbeers02

Managed to get some more work done this past Holiday weekend before the cold on Sunday started getting the better of us.
Got the rest of the ridgeboard up and most of the rafters. Only need 13 more including the gabled ends.
It may be a little overkill, but this cabin should easily outlast me.















Also got some "spindles" for the log staircase cut. I just purchased a 2" tenon cutter recently and am anxious to try it out.







GSPDOG

Looking good, look forward to seeing how the spindles turn out.
Thanks for Reading
Jim Brown

dbeers02

Managed to get a little more work done the last couple weekends.
Got the rest of the rafters in place.


Got started on the sheathing also up until it started a little raining but mostly very windy.
Kind of regretting such a steep pitch at this point. Its pretty hard to haul the 4x8 sheets up, hold them in place and screw them to the rafters.




I started with 30# felt and then 1x4 purlins vertically covered by 1x4's horizontally to screw the metal down to.
This will let the metal breath a little in hopes that any condensation will be allowed to dry and escape. Also if any were to condense or drip off the metal roofing, the tar paper should prevent it from rotting the sheathing.
I will be having several inches of closed cell expanding foam insulation added to the roof and walls inside creating a true vapor/moisture barrier.
Every board since the basic wall framing has been done with deck type screws in hopes of making this cabin tighter, stronger, and hopefully long lasting.

I believe I will pick up some roof jacks at the home improvement store to make going up and down the roof a little easier and hopefully safer.
It sure does go slow when your doing it yourself. Either that or I am getting older than I thought and slowing down.






MountainDon

Quote from: dbeers02 on January 26, 2015, 08:43:56 PM

Every board since the basic wall framing has been done with deck type screws in hopes of making this cabin tighter, stronger, and hopefully long lasting.


I don't want to come across as harsh or rude, but using screws for sheathing is not in the best interests of the strength of the building. While it is true that screws do have greater resistance to pull out, deck screws in particular are brittle and have much less shear strength than nails. Deck type screws are hardened to make the Phillips head or other drive coupling stronger. That hardening makes the shank of the screw brittle and easy to break off in shear when compared to a nail. If/when a screw shears off the greater pull out resistance does not matter anymore.  Ring shank nails have greater pull out resistance than plain smooth shank nails.

Shear:  Wind on a wall or a roof creates shear forces. Wind on a side wall will tend to make the end walls want to deform, for example.  The bottom plate is secured to the slab/floor. The top end of the wall wants to move with the wind direction. That puts sideways (shear) stress on the fasteners. That can cause screws to break off where the screw enters the underlying framing. Note, there are screws that are manufactured to be able to resist shear forces. They are sold marked as structural screws. Deck screws are not in that class.


With that in mind it might be a good idea to go around the structure again and nail the sheathing panels. Sheathing up to 1/2" is spec'd to use 6D (2" x 0.113") for wall sheathing; every 6" around the perimeter and 12" on the inner field of the panel. 8D (2.5" x 0.131") for roof panels.


Roof jacks and safety harness are a very good idea when working on a 12/12 pitch.


A note re the roof metal. Condensation can only occur if there is an air space under the roof metal. When metal roofing is applied over the #30 roofing felt the metal is flat against the felt. No air space, no condensation. You could save a lot of time on the roof if you simply apply the #30 felt from eves up to the ridge and then install the metal panels over the felt. That's we did on our cabin and our home. Tighten the screws just enough to get the proper compression on the neoprene washers. There are some roofing screws that use a cupped washer that can prevent over tightening.



Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

dbeers02

I hadn't thought about the sheer of the #9 deck screws. I may go back and add some nails to the panels.
I screwed every 6 inches on the outside of the panel and every 6-8 inches across the panels. Also on the purlins, I used 3 1/2 inch screws that penetrated both purlins, the sheathing and about 1 1/2 inches into the actual rafters. 2 on every joint vertically and 2 on every joint horizontally. So in addition to the 2 1/2 inch screws holding the sheathing down, there are 4 longer 3 1/2 inch screws at each intersection of the purlins.

As far as the gap under the metal roof, I have researched and hear people saying both ways work. The guy that will be blowing in my insulation, said the way I am doing it is how most people he installs for do it. I know some say that if you spray the bottom of the panels, then they will not condensate. I also have read that if you do develop a leak, you will not know until there is moderate rotting or water damage before it shows thru the closed cell foam.
I figure it this way, if there is a leak on the metal roof or condensation, the tarpaper should protect the sheathing and everything beneath it a little better that nothing at all.
I don't claim to know it all, and like learning new things or the correct/most up to date way to do things.
I do appreciate your input, and will most likely add some nails to the wall sheathing/additional roof sheathing and make sure that my gable walls on the ends are nailed also.
Thanks again for the info.

dbeers02

Been managing to get a little work done here and there. The going is slow but steady. Hope to get some more work done if it ever stops raining almost every weekend. Heading down this weekend for the Holiday. Hope to get some fishing, resting and a little beer drinking done. Not necessarily in that order.

Finished the tar paper and lathe.




Got a couple sheets of the roofing panels up.



Its steep up there. Got stopped because of the rain. It gets pretty slippery when it wet.



Decided to work on the deck since it was a little safer. Posts in and surrounding joists/ledger board



The rest of the joists and the decking. Went together pretty quick actually



Got the rest of the end wall framed and almost sheathed.



An interior view



Going to get the outside wrapped, get some windows/doors in and get started with the interior so I can get a running shower or at least a working potty next.

dbeers02

Still slowly chipping away at the cabin. Haven't updated the thread for awhile so I thought I would show some progress.
Been getting wiring, plumbing and some interior framing all done.
Also got the doors and windows in, and the Tyvek up to protect the sheathing.

Also got concrete poured and framing up for the "water" room addition. This is where my large water tank, pump and bladder tank, hot water heater, and filter/softener will be going.
When I poured the concrete, I also poured a slab for the grey water tank in the front.
Got most of the roof up. Should be able to finish the rest of the panels next time I down working.








Gray water tank together. Need to put my barrels in and a lid.


Got alot of the plumbing it and most of the drain pipes. Got the subfloor down in the bathroom. Also framed for the tub and got it set in place for now.Have a working toilet now and that makes the wife happy when she comes down to help. :D


Next time I am down, in a couple weeks, I will get some more pics of the progress.