Screen house

Started by new land owner, March 23, 2009, 06:48:05 PM

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new land owner

My summer project



I am building this screen house at my land in the adirondacks this summer.  The back screened portion is 10 x 14 and the front porch is 4 x 14. As I am 5 hours away I need to pre build as much as possible.



I am building the post out of 2x 6 and the top "beam" out of 2x 6 as well.

This is all of the pre build for the post, beams and knee walls.



Next I will be working on the roof trusses.




devildog

thats areally good looking truss!  looks like a good plan. make sure to take alot  of pics. id like to see how it comes together.
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MountainDon

Should be a nice place to sit and enjoy the outdoors without the bugs.  :)


I'm curious, how are the truss components going to be fastened together?
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

new land owner

Don

   I am planning on making gussets out of plywood.  I have purchased construction adhesive and plan to screw them in place.  I think I will first attach them with an air stapler and come back with screws.

    I was also inspired by your screen house.

Thanks

Bishopknight

I prefer the 3"x5" metal fasteners for gussets myself, they aren't very rustic but I think they hold and look better personally.

Otherwise, looks great. I built my own trusses for my 12x16 and did wood gussets initially but switched to metal for strength


Redoverfarm

Not real sure what type of floor you are using.  But if you are using a deck material don't forget to tack screen onto the floor joist.

new land owner

      I am using 5/4 deck boards and have thought of the best material to put under them to keep the bugs out.  My father in law thought of landscaping fabric. 


      Not yet sure what I wil use but thanks for the suggestion.

Redoverfarm

Most here just use polyester screen stabled to the joist.  Only one problem and that is that dirt will fall between the cracks.  36" wide put on perpendicular to the joist with a 1-2" overlap.

MountainDon

new land owner,
Plywood gussets should be fine; CSX 3/8" can be used.  As for glue I would recommend something like polyurethane moisture activated glue like Gorilla Glue or a two part glue like Weldwood Resorcinol Glue over construction adhesive. For plywood truss gussets you want the plywood as flat against the truss wood as possible. You do not need or want a thick layer of glue. The thinner types as mentioned will squeeze out some as you nail the gussets on. The polyurethanes are messier to clean up; sticky just like foam insulation in a can is (close cousins). Hand nailing is preferred over a power stapler. An air nailer could be used, but each nail should be "finished" by a good blow with a framing hammer. This will squeeze the materials together better than an air tool can accomplish.

Galvanized 5D or 6D box nails spaced about 2" apart is what they used to use back in the 50's & 60's when they built on site trusses for ag buildings. On the flat side of a 2x4 there's be two rows.

If you'd like I could scan a picture or two from my old "Designs for Glued Trusses manual.

I also believe that plywood plates, installed properly, are better for this than any metal nail plates. The metal plates you see on factory produced trusses are rolled or pressed into the wood under evenly applied high pressure.

Don't use screws; they are never recommended for structural wood framing.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


MountainDon

#9
I may be leaving town for a few days so here's that info. The image includes two blocks that are nailed to the floor jig. They have marks on them as guides for the nailing pattern.



Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

new land owner

Don, Thanks for the information I will use this to build my trusses.

new land owner

I finished my trusses but I think I need a new (larger) trailer.


Abbynrml

Thats looking really nice.
Any more pics?
We love pics.  :)

Redoverfarm

new land owner nothing wrong with that .  Most of my loads look similar.  It works doesn't it.  Here you are allowed up to 4' overhang w/o a permit.  Anthing under needs to be flagged.


considerations

The Little Trailer that Could!....or was it Engine??? Anyway, the pic makes me smile.   ;D

MountainDon

I made an extendable tongue for my 4x8 box trailer. It makes it easier to carry long loads and keep weight on the hitch.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

new land owner

How did you make the extendable and still rigid?

MountainDon

I removed the original hitch from the original tongue. Then bought a section of square tubing, I think it was 1/4" wall, that could slide over the other. Just like that there is some slop, but see below. I made the outer tube long enough so with it pushed fully over the original tongue it was about a foot longer. That helped reversing with the trailer as I coan see it better in the side mirrors.

I drilled the two pieces through top to bottom with a 1/2" drill bit. With the assembly collapsed there is are two 1/2" grade 5 bolts with nylock nuts about two feet apart that secure the sections. The paranoid side of me insisted on also using a 1/2" hitch pin half way between the bolts.

Once those were drilled I pulled the tongue forward and drilled more holes through the inner tube for a mid length extension, then another 12 inches for the most extension.

There's no wiggle or sloppiness apparent. Works for me. I also installed a loop of wiring to allow the extension and still have the lights work.

I welded thin pieces of steel to several places alomg the sides of the inner tube. I had to grind carefully but that made the tubes fit tighter. Then the bolts cinch them top to bottom.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

new land owner

Spent all of this week on sight getting started.

I have the building up but not shingled.

Still trying to decide on the exterior wall treatments.

Also met with the building inspector and paid my $33.00 fee for the building permit.


The deck with the back portion screened for bugs.


I built the posts out of 2x6 and assembled it on sight


Here is the back 10 x 14 screened portion.


The building is up waiting for a roof


Ran out of time so I had to tarp it until the next trip

MountainDon

You certainly were busy! Looking mighty nice.  :)
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.


glenn kangiser

Looking just like the computer rendering....cool :)
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Abbynrml

Indeed, that is very nice!
Its is alot like the style I am doing.
I would like to see the plans you are using. Can you show them to us?
I know you cant wait to get back and finish.

new land owner

Thanks for the complements

I did not work off any plans pre say.  I used punch software to create the roof lines and to try other options.

The total building is 14' square with the back 10' x 14' to be screened and the front 4' x 14' to be a porch.

I have a 8 12 pitch on the higher portion and 4 12 on the portion over the porch.

For the deck of the screened portion I used 2 x 8's and for the front 4' of the porch I used 2 x 6's.

This will give the door something to close against.

I also pre wired the building and just insereted the wires into the posts as I stood the walls up. 

This worked well and did not have fish any wires.

Abbynrml

I see. You have done great so far. Keep posting updates, I hope to follow along as you finish.  :)

speedfunk

agree with Don.  Look really cool!
Jeff