Bought an acre south of Prescott in the fall of 2013. It is fairly remote and at about 7000 ft. Spent many hours reading this site and figuring out what I wanted to do.
Took me almost a year to get plans drawn, structural engineering, soil engineering, well and sceptic permits and finally recieved the building pemit in Oct last year. That whole process was far more expensive and painful than I dreamed it would be!
As soon as I had the permit in hand I was ready to break ground though and was able to get the foundation completed before closing down the project for the winter.
I will post a few pictures of my progress when I figure out how to do it ???
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20140930_121426_zpsvvybeyhh.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20140930_121426_zpsvvybeyhh.jpg.html)
My footing ended up being quite deep. 7.5 feet on one corner due to the cut and fill. Had to dig until we reached native soil.
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20141017_1435141_zpsesfonc3e.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20141017_1435141_zpsesfonc3e.jpg.html)
footings and rebar in place
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20141024_1639181_zpswmd60q9k.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20141024_1639181_zpswmd60q9k.jpg.html)
Almost done
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20141104_1255161_zpskp8yals4.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20141104_1255161_zpskp8yals4.jpg.html)
The engineer speced out these huge bolts to be placed into the block, extend up thru the sub floor and attach to the shear wall framing. Sure hope we got them in the right place because they arent moving. 18 of them total
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150103_1415491_zpssg3boyig.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150103_1415491_zpssg3boyig.jpg.html)
Done for the winter
Wow! That is some depth and some very healthy sizes anchor bolts! Looks like a great foundation. Thanks for sharing.
Looks good. We are building just up the hill in flagstaff. Good luck with the build
Thanks Don and MP
MP, I can't believe how fast your place went up! Are you working on it full time? It looks great and similar to what mine will look like. I will start on the subfloor in the next month or so but really have no idea how long it is going to take me to build. My regular job in Phoenix allows me 3 or for 4 days a week to dedicate to the build so hopefully it will go quickly now that I am building with wood and not concrete. My girlfriend (holding the bolts) has been a great help but wont be able to be up there as much as I due to work schedules.
I am looking forward to have you guys to bounce ideas off of and get general advice. There are some aspects of this build that I haven't been able to wrap my head around yet. Like 2nd story walls with no second story floor to build on. Just got to keep telling myself, one step at a time.....
I started a website for my build also if you would like to see more pictures www.TheNordinePlace.com
Yes, that is one sturdy foundation. I really like it.
As far as 2nd story walls with no second story floor, I'm not sure what to say. You can check out my build if you would like. Most guys build the 1st floor walls, put on the 2nd floor support system. For my floor system I used 26' floor trusses, but since you are only 20' deep you could use 2x12s or many other things. Then on top of the floor support system, you put a subfloor. There is a plywood that is almost weather proof. Lots of guys use it. I used random width 1x pine. Then, standing on your 2nd floor subfloor, you build your 2nd floor walls.
Any other questions, let us know. Also, we love pictures so keep them coming.
Austin
Getting ready to build the subfloor this next week and have a couple questions.
The foundation is not exactly square. On the front of the house the foundation measures 19ft 11 1/2 inch. So it's half inch short of what is was supposed to be. How close is close enough? Can I just let the sill plate Hang over the edge of the block 1/4 inch on each side on that end to make it an even 20ft?
On the north wall (36ft long) we ended up 1 inch too long. This seems like less of a problem, if the sill plate doesn't quite reach the edge of the block at least the entire sill plate is supported. (This might make sheathing a problem though?)
Am I over thinking this? What should I be worried about? ???
Let me rephrase my real question and see if that helps.
How much, if any, can the sill plate hang over the edge of the foundation and still be OK?
It will only be about half an inch. What do you think ?
Todd
I would fudge 1/4" on the with of the building and then let it hang over 1/8" on each side and call it good. I think you will see it all the rest of your life but no one else will ever notice.
You can cantilever feet over a foundation if you do it correctly. You are fine without having to worry about that though, put the sill down at 20' wide x 36'1" and roll with it, double rim if it worries you. Never underhang the foundation dimension if at all possible it'll cause headaches or a water problem later. Measure parallels and diagonals when the sill is down to assure it is uniform and square, correct there, check and keep correcting all the way up. The roof is more difficult to fudge so try not to.
I arrived at one job to see a foundation that looked like an hourglass, there had been a strong tremor just as the last concrete truck left. The corners held but the length of the walls had bowed in a bit. In the width of the building it was easy to just cantilever a little to keep the floor straight, on the length we stepped in a joist, turned the framing 90* and blocked, allowing a short cantilever where needed in that direction.
I missed the 2 story wall question earlier, studs need to run unbroken from floor to floor, floor to ceiling, or floor to roof... in other words they should end only at a point of lateral support, a sheathed floor or roof diaphragm. Tall walls can require deep studs, very good connections top and bottom and may need engineering.
Thanks for the reply Don. That was not an option that I considered. So, overhanging the sill plate by a full inch wouldn't be a problem? Is this something I should run by my inspector before I do it or wouldn't this even raise eyebrows?
If I needed double plates for support how would those be attached? The anchor bolts would not be long enough to go thru both plates.
As for my tall walls without a floor for support was engineered. The engineer speced out 12 Simpson HDU8s connected in pairs by a threaded rod. Here is a picture from the Simpson site showing similar installatioin. Mine won't have the subfloor between the two floor though. Those brackets are huge, almost 18 inches long and the rod is 7/8 inch diameter. I have read so much on this site and others about "hinge" points between walls I hope the engineer knows what he is talking about ::)
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/HDU8_zps0gmb1kz5.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/HDU8_zps0gmb1kz5.jpg.html)
Double rim joists, not 2 sill plates ;) It moves the load path inboard over the foundation a little better. Never hurts to ask the inspector, every one has a different take on things.
That connector takes care of uplift, does nothing for a lateral load on it's own. I also don't know all the details so I'm not saying he's wrong.
The nuts on the HDU's will need to be tightened up now and then....I painted mine with luminous paint to make them easier to find without holding a flashlight in one hand and wrench in the other. A year after final inspection they had loosened significantly
Quote from: Don_P on March 04, 2015, 07:30:06 AM
Double rim joists, not 2 sill plates ;) It moves the load path inboard over the foundation a little better. Never hurts to ask the inspector, every one has a different take on things.
That connector takes care of uplift, does nothing for a lateral load on it's own. I also don't know all the details so I'm not saying he's wrong.
Thanks for the clarification Don d* Makes total sense
Quote from: flyingvan on March 04, 2015, 10:12:15 AM
The nuts on the HDU's will need to be tightened up now and then....I painted mine with luminous paint to make them easier to find without holding a flashlight in one hand and wrench in the other. A year after final inspection they had loosened significantly
Aren't yours buried inside the walls? How do you access them? I haven't seen anything in my plans or from Simpson that you should provide access to them at a later time. Although it now sounds like a good idea per your experience
My through rod ones come through the plate. The upper nut is hidden in the wall, but the lower ones are in the crawlspace. I went through and tightened all the bolts on the postcaps, then checked the HDU's they were all pretty loose. THe phosphorescent paint makes them easy to spot
Got the subfloor framing done this weekend and bought off by the inspector.
I have had 3 different inspectors so far and they have all been great. Offereing advice on the next step. giving me an idea what will be expected on the next inspection etc. Easy to get worked up and worried about getting inspected but so far it has been easy
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150308_130148_zps2f3s0gob.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150308_130148_zps2f3s0gob.jpg.html)
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150310_153908_zpsj53tmolb.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150310_153908_zpsj53tmolb.jpg.html)
Quote from: Cougr67 on March 13, 2015, 03:14:31 AMEasy to get worked up and worried about getting inspected but so far it has been easy
They aren't all bad and some can actually be really helpful along the way, though I am a bit biased being my father has been a building inspector for the past 40 years and my grandfather was a building inspector as well ;)
Looks good so far. It is tradition around here to be pictured doing some sort of dance on the subfloor once it is installed. Reluctance to do so will result in banishment or at least extreme mocking.
Did you get everything square?
Austin
Quote from: dablack on March 13, 2015, 02:13:54 PM
Looks good so far. It is tradition around here to be pictured doing some sort of dance on the subfloor once it is installed. Reluctance to do so will result in banishment or at least extreme mocking.
Did you get everything square?
Austin
Yep, got the still plates square to the 1/16 of an inch. Remeasured at the point in the picture and we are now 1/4 inch out measured diagonally. Still not bad but I was surprised how easily we lost 1/4 inch. That could really add up by the time you get to the roof if your not paying attention. I will try to get back to square with the first story walls or at least not goo any further out.
Haven't danced since by wedding almost 30 years ago but I think I can handle this 8). Decking going on tomorrow
Todd
My brother Mike was up for a couple of days to help with the floor and start framing some walls. No problem being the floor Dow and here is my obligatory picture of dancing on the finished deck.(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150314_160553_zpsedjujzcs.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150314_160553_zpsedjujzcs.jpg.html)
[cool] A milestone!
GREAT JOB!
Most of us have been there and it is a great feeling. The first wall going up will feel even better.
Austin
Your job site looks very clean and ordered. Believe it or not that does help inspections. And yes I know what you mean about still being nervous!
I had an electrical inspector tell me one time he could just take the panel cover off the service box and have a pretty good idea if everything was above board and done right. Clean neat and ordered speak volumes. ;D
Foundation venting not required?
Rick, venting is required, after the walls are sheathed they will be cut into the rim board.
The day after the floor was done we framed up the long Walls. One of these days I will figure out that everything take longer than you think it will. It was a long day and several mistakes to get to this point.
Anybody see the framing mistake in the picture ? I didn't notice it until I was home and looking at the pictures. Sometime you are just to close to see the obvious.
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150315_173449_zpsawkqq6cj.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150315_173449_zpsawkqq6cj.jpg.html)
Section in right hand foreground... There seems to be a stud misaligned. Just to the left of the window. If that is the worst error you ever make you are doing fine. ;D
missing board under the one window...Double doors into your place?
We use bricks where I come from and we stagger joints but when using timber we do it too
Making top and bottom plates different lengths and not having the same join position in both front and rear walls...
Just adds strength to the structure, those in the know can advise code wise
You got it Don. I Think we just failed to nail it in on the top. Easily fixed.
UK - That really makes sense to stagger the joints, I will do that on the remaining walls.
So what is the consensus about sheathing, either partially or completely while the walls are laying down? There will only be two of us raising the walls, longest section is 24 ft. i bought two Qualcraft 2601 Wall Jacks, the ones that use a 2x4 to lift the walls. Has anybody used these wall jacks? Is it reasonable for two people to lift a fully sheathed 24 foot wall with these?
Todd
Even a partial sheathing will help keep the wall square as you lift it.
I've not lifted a wall longer than 16 feet by myself. I had a jack but not that one.
Particularly sheet. Beware of wind and wind gusts. Make sure you understand the jacks and how they work. If you need to walk through it a couple times until everyone understands no harm done. On the railroad, we called it a job briefing to make sure everyone understands the whole job. As our instructors taught us painting verbal pictures of what is going to happen and how you need to counter the problems you expect to encounter.
Props and braces at the ready. Make sure 911 is loaded into the speed dial.
I had one of those jacks and it didn't work at all. I was trying to lift a 26' section of fully sheathed 8' wall. Nope.
On the first house, I was working alone and building 10' walls (1.5 story). I learned I could lift a 8' section of 10' wall with horizontal sheathing at the top. It took lots of measuring but it got done. Then I went back and put in the top plate to tie it all together.
On the house I'm building now (two story on slab), I used the tractor to raise the lower walls and then brought my buddies and lifted the upstairs walls. I hate ladder work, so the upstairs walls were fully sheathed and house wrapped. It took three adult men to lift the 26' section (my 11 year old girl and 8 year old boy helped too). The 52' long section was lifted with 11 guys. I don't think you need that many but that is how many came to the wall lifting party so that is how many we used. I think only one had lifted a wall before. The rest were scared to death.
I left the end pieces of sheathing off the 26' sections so I could have the sheathing overlap the ends of the 52' section. It worked really well. I put a rope and clamp on the OSB, threw it over the top and lowered it into position. Tied it off, then went on the ladder outside to nail it on and finish the house wrap.
I would try to get some buddies out there with a pig roast or something like that. I would hate for that jack to fail....
Austin
Quote from: Cougr67 on January 30, 2015, 04:07:01 PM
Thanks Don and MP
MP, I can't believe how fast your place went up! Are you working on it full time? It looks great and similar to what mine will look like. I will start on the subfloor in the next month or so but really have no idea how long it is going to take me to build. My regular job in Phoenix allows me 3 or for 4 days a week to dedicate to the build so hopefully it will go quickly now that I am building with wood and not concrete. My girlfriend (holding the bolts) has been a great help but wont be able to be up there as much as I due to work schedules.
I am looking forward to have you guys to bounce ideas off of and get general advice. There are some aspects of this build that I haven't been able to wrap my head around yet. Like 2nd story walls with no second story floor to build on. Just got to keep telling myself, one step at a time.....
I started a website for my build also if you would like to see more pictures www.TheNordinePlace.com
Sorry for the late response. I worked on the house every night after work and sun up to sun down on the weekend. I love the Prescott area. And you have a nice looking piece of land. If you can do 3 to 4 days a week the time will fly and you will be done before you know it. As far as the second floor walls I would assume you need the subfloor in upstairs first. It should be a nice summer here with lots of nice days to build
We got a couple walls raised this last week. I raised the two short side walls that are only 12 ft long and the front wall is 20 ft.
Turns out the wall jacks I bought work well. Raised the two short walls partially sheathed by myself using one jack. The front 20 ft wall I had help and used two jacks but didn't sheath it at all.
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/Screenshot_2015-03-27-21-37-42_zpsdjhn2req.png) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/Screenshot_2015-03-27-21-37-42_zpsdjhn2req.png.html)
Will get the rest of the walls up this weekend and start on the interior walls
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150323_171604_zpsmggfqijj.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150323_171604_zpsmggfqijj.jpg.html)
Hi. I am in Mayer & am thinking of building the same house that you have. Did you have to go through local engineering to get the plans approved? Any modifications to the plans? Any information would be appreciated. Also, I am retired & would be willing to give you a hand with the project. I was a home builder for some 40 years & have most of the tools. Thanks. Gene
T57:
I drew out the plans on on a computer program called "Home designer Suite 2014" then hired a home designer from Prescott to tweak my plans and walk then thru the building department. There was quite a bit of engineering involved. The county required soil testing and engineer recommendations ($2000) and then the shearwall and hold down engineering was another $800 or so. My plans don't resemble the 20x30 plans from this site very closely although they were the initial inspiration. I decided to go with 2 full stories instead of the story and a half. The overall height of the building ended up being almost the same but i only needed a 5/12 pitch to the roof instead of that 12/12 pitch that seems so scary to work on. I will start framing the second story in the next couple weeks so I am not sure if that was the right decision yet but when it is all done I am sure will be glad I did it.
Here is a couple pics of where things stand. All the ground floor walls are up and framed and we started on the interior walls
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150331_081142_zps5hmejahx.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150331_081142_zps5hmejahx.jpg.html)
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150331_093330_zps8nhhnuwu.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150331_093330_zps8nhhnuwu.jpg.html)
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150401_144911_zpsrsxrxt7l.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150401_144911_zpsrsxrxt7l.jpg.html)
Thanks for the response. Would you mind sharing the names of the firms that helped you go through the permitting process?
Troy at T5 Drafting and Design. he took my drawings, drew up the plans. Dealt with the building department, dealt with the engineers etc. Even came out on-site with the soil engineers. All at a very reasonable cost. Well worth it unless that is a pert of the build you would like to deal with. I was happy to pay him to handle the bureaucratic red tape
Thanks for the information. Gene ::)
I've been lurking here for about 4 years and can say confidently that your foundation is the one I want to use the most. That just looks amazing.
Wow, thanks Zona!
I have been building my second story walls this last couple weeks. I will update with pictures soon
Todd
I can't seem to find a telephone # or location for "T 5 DRAFTING & DESIGN". Could you help me with that?
Go to Prescottplans.com and fill out his contact request. He will get right back to you
Come on Todd! We need our pictures!
Wow, it has been a long time since I posted.
Let's see what I can do from my phone
This was April 14th
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150415_134441_zpswoea9r8q.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150415_134441_zpswoea9r8q.jpg.html)
This was last week, about April 27th(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150426_074853_zpslm9jgzzs.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150426_074853_zpslm9jgzzs.jpg.html)
(https://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r792/TNordine/Cabin/20150426_121951_zpscfardayz.jpg) (https://s1367.photobucket.com/user/TNordine/media/Cabin/20150426_121951_zpscfardayz.jpg.html)
Was rainy and snowy but I was able to get the rest of the second floor walls framed.
This week I am sheathing and maybe even put up some trusses. They were delivered today
Thanks for the information.
I am starting trusses and have a couple of questions
Blocking; plans specify blocking at the top plate with ventilation. The heel height of my parralel cord trusses are 16 inches. Can I just use a 2x10 and a 2x8 stacked to achieve full height blocking? Out is there a better way of achieving this.
Neither my building designer or truss manufacturer speced it any other blocking. Like ridge blocking. Is that necessary?
Venting; I have seen either notching or round hole used as venting. Is one better than the other? How many and how big do the notches or hole need to be?
Thanks guys!
The cost from 5D was about $3000 ?
I'm south of Prescott in Wilhoit and will be building a 1 1/2 story home. So I will be keeping a eye on your build.
Thanks,Randy