Ready to pull the trigger

Started by FrankInWI, April 30, 2006, 10:19:34 AM

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FrankInWI

Well, after a rainy weekend with leaks in our pop-up camper, we decided to build what we can to get indoors comfort.  That added to my son's chief objective "a couch to sit on and watch DVDs together" (after a day of fun outside).  The thing is we can't build a home yet.....or a cabin that would take occupancy permit. So, we're going with something smaller that can be transitioned later to slely shed use.  In fact permit wise it will be a shed, and we will still keep our pop up set up to "sleep in".  I'm also going to put a toilet in the pop up, with the blue haul away RV holding tank for our waste.  (can't afford the $8,500 septic yet either!).   I kind of started the 200 sq ft max discussion that John really made into something great, the contest.  Boy there is lots of great info in that post and replies.  I found out that the "Land Use" permit is free (Minor structure less than 200 sq ft), but my township now has a building inspector and he said we still need to pull a "building permit" from him and he'll give it a "final inspection" for $35 - $50.  He mentioned checking the headers, electric, etc.   I can build walls with no questions, but I need advise on the base.  I bought plans from John for the 1 ½ house so that will help.

MY QUESTION TODAY is how to build the base of the shed.  I want to be able to move it later when I put a cabin is on the spot the shed will start at.  The shed might be 12 ft wide (or 14?).  I see two or three long timbers with the floor joists cross wise.  HOW BIG do the base timbers need to be?  How about a pair of 4" X 6" treated running about 8" parallel?  I'd stand them so the 6" is vertical.  Would these two be enough .... Would I need three?  Would I need 6 X 6 ?  Ideas?

From there I figure floor joists of 2 X 10's 24 OC. With planks on the perimeter.  I'd cover the bottom with OSB, so we can put up insulation between the bottom and the floor.  Flooring would just be plywood covered with something inexpensive, like linoleum.  

I bought the framing book too.  I'll spend some time with that. Is that a good source for figuring plank size, distant apart, span, etc?   How do I know my state's code?  (Wisconsin).     Thanks in advance for any and all help.  

Bye the way.....my son's and I are going to build this in our driveway at home, and haul sections to assemble on site.  A buddy has a strong tandem trailer.  I'll just have to watch my height for the bridges.  I figure to make the walls 10-12' tall so we can put shelving at about 8' (occasional nap location?).   I'm inclined to go with a gambrel roof, but I never liked the looks of them.  I'd go with a steep pitch instead, but county wants us to keep the height normal. Else they'll wander what the heck we're going to do with it.  I did tell them it's multi-use, including changing room for the pool.  I'll build it to house code, who know's, later I might want to attach it to the house as a wing/addition.

peg_688

Quote
MY QUESTION TODAY is how to build the base of the shed.  I want to be able to move it later when I put a cabin is on the spot the shed will start at.  The shed might be 12 ft wide (or 14?).  I see two or three long timbers with the floor joists cross wise.  HOW BIG do the base timbers need to be?  How about a pair of 4" X 6" treated running about 8" parallel?  I'd stand them so the 6" is vertical.  Would these two be enough .... Would I need three?  Would I need 6 X 6 ?  Ideas?



 [size=12]  I'd use two 4x6 on edge, blocked in between with 3ea.  4x4's .  Two beams will be much easier to relevel the "shed ";) when you move it. The 4x4 will help hold it together, if your ground is really rough/ hilly I'd concider putting two or maybe 3 threaded rods along side of the 4x4's to keep things tight, attached / pulling the 4x6 together.


For joist 2x8's will be plenty and help keep the height down and also the weight. I'd use H 1 clips on each joist to each beam and I'd block right above the beams with 2x8 again to hold it tight when you move it.   Rim joist it with 2x8 as well, look in your framing book for platform framing details .

Instead of OSB under I'd typar it wrapped up on the joist I'd then cover over that with like a T1-11 siding so water will not get in from above , the typar will breath out but not let moisture in .

 I'd use 3/4 " T&G "edgegold " OSB for the deck sheathing if it will get wet for any lenght of time before you get In the dry / roof on . If it will be dry while building or very quickly built , lessing the" getting wet time ", 3/4" T&G plywood will be good . Plywood/ OSB sheet goods ,  nailed off 4"oc at all edges, 8"oc in the field , glued down with const. adh.  will give you a more solid shear panel / floor for the moving part of your " shed" :)

 I'd also bore holes in the beams and rig up a pipe in the hole to run a cable or tow chain thru , the pipe will protect the wood the holes will make it easy to tow . Your shed ;)

 From the floor up conventional platform framing should serve your "shed " well.

   






 
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 Good luck , PEG


jraabe

#2
There is a skid foundation detail in the Little House Plans kit that can be used for any of the cabins or sheds up to 14' wide. It uses 2x12 PT for a built up beam and has a screened and ventilated moisture proof underfloor area that will protect against the quickly rotting floor most sheds experience.

(I know, always selling...  :D)

peg_688

  [size=12]

 Sorry Boss, whatca think of my design , I just made it up twenty minutes ago?

I'll go look at yours , or do I have to buy the plan to look :o :o


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glenn-k

Gotta pay for all this good cheap un-guaranteed information some way ---- one tip from our members will more than pay the modest purchase price of your plans.

Note: John didn't pay me to say that. :)


FrankInWI

John you are not always selling...far far far from it.   You have fostered such a great community here.  Your extreemly helful and generous.  I did buy the other plan, just havn't used it yet!  
I was so impressed and happy by Peg's almost immediate response this morning.  Oh wow, what value she added too.  The ideas about the 4x4 between the platform planks, are now in my plans for sure.  Maybe the rods too.  I'd rather overbuild then underbuild, and this shed WILL be moved, at least once.  I'm not sure I understood the T1 use yet, I'll re-read that a few more times.   Think she means on the bottom, under the tyvek type material, but not sure want value that is over plywood or osb.  This IS a great community.  I hope Glen pipes in here too, he's such a generous member too.   People can do so much more than they try to.  You all get us to try! And it works  :)

jraabe

#6
PEG:

I would go along with your design basically but a deeper beam would provide more stiffness between the supports (or bumps in the terrain). I have double 2x12 PT beams at the outside with joists hung between. Notch these beams for a "prow" to drag it around with. The sheathing/siding overlaps the beam and provides rigidity. Then there are simple moisture and ventilation details to keep it dry.

(I do have to hold a few things back or I wouldn't have income to keep this support site up 8-))

glenn-k

#7
Frank,

PEG is our male member.  That is his intials.  :) ;D

peg_688

#8
[size=12]  


 PEG 's my int's my sister got to name me and she a Margaret  / Peggy so last name starts with a G .  She thought it would be cool if my int's matched her nickmane  ;D

   So the jigs up, I'm a he  ;D  look close at the much to large / small on the net photo ;D

 H-1

 Hold down clip nailed to beam and floor joist plenty scookum KimOsabie(sp)

 Sorry to much coffee this AM  ;D


 
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peg_688

Ya I should have mentioned the bevel cuts so she slides easy. I was going for a stream lined low look, so when the building insp. comes to look at it , it "Looks" fast ;D

 Of course I'd first try to run the insp. offin my land  ;D

PEG all male all the time  ;D