Platform framing -using 2" T&G How to

Started by UK4X4, March 07, 2012, 10:23:53 AM

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UK4X4

So I'm just reviewing my upper floor plans and was wondering how to do this

I have already designed the upper floor using standard materials- I joists and a mid beam-with avantec

Then started to think about doing it in 2" T&G

26' wide building with central glue lam beam- I was thinking 4x10 beams with 32" spacing with the 2' T&G flooring

But I don't want to put down the flooring before the roof is on- as it will get destroyed by the construction crew and weather.

So how would you platform frame - upper section is 6ft high at the walls use ply for temp flooring and then install the nice shiney wood later ?


Redoverfarm

Quote from: UK4X4 on March 07, 2012, 10:23:53 AM
So I'm just reviewing my upper floor plans and was wondering how to do this

I have already designed the upper floor using standard materials- I joists and a mid beam-with avantec

Then started to think about doing it in 2" T&G

26' wide building with central glue lam beam- I was thinking 4x10 beams with 32" spacing with the 2' T&G flooring

But I don't want to put down the flooring before the roof is on- as it will get destroyed by the construction crew and weather.

So how would you platform frame - upper section is 6ft high at the walls use ply for temp flooring and then install the nice shiney wood later ?

I assume that you will be breaking the 26' into two 13' spans.  Might check the span charts on that distance.  As far as the spacing between beams I think you will be OK w/2X T&G.  You could just lay temporary material to give you a work platform for now as you stated and then install the T&G once it is dried in to where the weather will not bother you.  You would want to prefinish your T&G at least on the beam side (ceiling). It is a real pain to try to finish it once it is installed as the beams make it tough to get to and do a decent finish.   The rest can be finished later or at the same time.  You can cover it with rosin paper after it is finished.  My experience is that the reverse side of the T&G will not fit together as well as the ceiling side (V grove side). Another thing that I found is to use the water based  poly on the ceiling side as it will not be traveled like the floor side and you can get multiple coats in a fraction of the time of oil based.  But of course oil based is recommened for the reverse or floor side.

Just keep in mind that any wiring for ceiling lights/fans should be pre-routed in the beam tops or else you will have exposed wiring.  They can be covered with regular wiring trim but IMO it looks a little nicer if they are hidden.





UK4X4

Yes central beam and some log posts

I've already checked the beam spans and I'm fine out to 48"

I'm guessing I have to run an extra flat  2x6 arround the perimeter, and at the gable ends- a extra 2x10 on edge beneath as well

The beams starting basicly at the wall then spaced out from there

Redoverfarm

Quote from: UK4X4 on March 07, 2012, 11:03:48 AM
Yes central beam and some log posts

I've already checked the beam spans and I'm fine out to 48"

I'm guessing I have to run an extra flat  2x6 arround the perimeter, and at the gable ends- a extra 2x10 on edge beneath as well

The beams starting basicly at the wall then spaced out from there

I wasn't meaning your beam spacing but lengthwise from the wall to the center support.

And yes a ledger "let-in" on your outside walls for the beams to rest on and a nailer against the gable wall for your flooring to rest on. 

UK4X4

confusion reigns ! ;D

platform framing is where the walls finish at 8ft - then I platform frame the floor then the upper walls, normally the upper walls sit on your finished full floor- when using ply

In this case I don't want the full floor in place before I set the upper walls- hence the question

I'm using Ilevel Forte for my beams so I'm all good with that- 2 columns over my 36 length very usefull software when you work out how to use it !


Redoverfarm

Why couldn't you use 2X material around the perimeter as a plate the same elevation as the flooring, build the walls and come back with the flooring to meet the 2X material.  The base molding would cover the change in material. 

John Raabe

I second John's suggestion. You could even frame the walls with a double bottom plate and then put the decking down later.
None of us are as smart as all of us.

Redoverfarm

Quote from: John Raabe on March 07, 2012, 01:18:05 PM
I second John's suggestion. You could even frame the walls with a double bottom plate and then put the decking down later.

Was having a little difficulty in visualizing what was being done.  But like everything else there is usually a solution if discussed and thought out.  The only problem I can see is that if you wanted the floor tied into your wall framing which is rarely the case in convientional construction. 

UK4X4

"I'm guessing I have to run an extra flat  2x6 arround the perimeter, and at the gable ends- a extra 2x10 on edge beneath as well"

OK so that works

- I was wondering about wether tying the flooring to the walls was an issue- ref code


So in the middle I can use these to tie to the beam- sitting the joists on top,
simpson OAH33's

http://fencesupplyinc.com/shop/simpson-strong-tie-oha33-the-rustic-collection-heavy-angles-with-optional-gussets.htmlbut at the walls


What to use at the wall ends- as I won't have balloon studs to bolt them too.

the only thing I can see is the twist straps that would fit and stop uplift


Redoverfarm

I was having a little trouble with the link you provided but I eventually found what you were looking at. I think your original site included a couple extra letters which were probably part of your following sentence.

http://fencesupplyinc.com/shop/simpson-strong-tie-oha33-the-rustic-collection-heavy-angles-with-optional-gussets.html

As far as Code I am not sure but the majority of the floors are not connected to the wall.  The sheeting yes as you stated are normally under the wall plate.

Here is Simpson's site of their products.  You may find something here to make that tie.

http://www.strongtie.com/products/category_list.html