12 x 16 backyard workshop

[964haus]

Mike, another question. For your dormer, is the outermost rafter (fly rafter) just attached to the roof sheating rather than tied back into the rafter with a small block ladder? Presumably this was done prior to applying the roof shingles, etc?

Just trying to figure out how to secure this - I was planning on just securing the fly rafter onto the roof sheathing, as I'm only having a 6" overhang on the dormer anyway.

Thanks, any updates on the siding?

Matthew.

[Mike 870]

I have the dormer build on the inside rafter (of the doubled up rafters).  The outside is a nailer for the sheathing.  The two rafters are nailed togther.   I have seen the dormer framing built over the sheating for the main roof as well.  In fact I think in most cases that would be better than the way I did it.  Only downside I see would be if you have to replace rotted sheathing way down the line. 

Hopefully an update after this weekend.  I haven't done anything since the last pictures.

[964haus]

Mike,
Sorry to be a pain....

I've got a framing book that I've been using that's been helpful so far. What it doesn't show it how to detail the roof sheathing across the shed dormer (and really where the main roof and dormer roof intersect). Like you, I have a shed dormer and I've sheathed the main portion of the roof, but I'm not sure how the dormer sheathing is meant to go. My dormer rafters extends from the ridge beam and also has an overhang like yours, but at the top (ridge beam location)  did you let the main roof sheathing extend to the top or does the dormer roofing cover this? I noticed from one of you photos that there seems to be a small gap at the top of the dormer roof sheathing - do you have any more detailed photos of how you handled that interface?

Sorry if i'm somewhat unclear...

Thanks as always,
Matthew.

[Mike 870]

I could not take the dormer sheathing all the way up where it overhangs the side of the dormer because eventually it would hit the main roof sheathing.  What I did was cut a bit out of the last board that I put up so that the the part covering the dormer went all the way up the the ridge, but the overhang part was notched out some.  It was covered with roof vent or shingles so it doesn't show.  Make sure you shingle the main roof and do your siding on the dormer up in the very top corners before you put that last piece of sheathing up.  Otherwise you wontbe able to reach anything.

[964haus]

Excellent  - thanks a lot Mike!

Matthew.

[Mike 870]

I got a little more done.  I have had some friends help which really makes things go faster.  I still have to trim between the rafter tails, while allowing for air ventilation.  That will be time consuming.  Once that is done I will cut out the windows in the dormer, trim them out and finish the shakes up there.  The last two exterior walls should go faster because there are no doors or windows.   

[Mike 870]

I cut out the holes for the windows in the dormer.  Gives a better feel for what it will look like when finished.  I will probably only trim out the windows up there but not the corners.  I'll just butt the shingles together to hopefully give a beveled look from ground level. 




I ended up just drilling holes to vent the siding and roof.  I was originally going to fur out the trim between the rafter tails, but decided against doing that.  I'm not sure what I think of the holes, but unless your standing right underneath it you don't see or focus on it.  You can also see how I trimmed out the window, pretty happy with it.  I made the mistake of not adding extra blocking under the corner trim of the shed.  I did add extra under the window trim, and the visual differentiation is  nice.  It tends to cast shadows and create more of a contrast.  Lesson learned for next time.



And here is how it looks coming up the driveway.

[Jesse]

Your little building is one of the best ive seen on here.  Just my style.  I bet when you build a cabin it will turn out great.

[Mike 870]

Hey thanks Jesse, I appreciate the compliment.

964Hause,  are you going to start a build thread?

[Barry Broome]

Beautiful. This building has turned out very nice! Keep the pics coming.

[964haus]

964Hause,  are you going to start a build thread?

I'll start a build thread soon...I'm a little nervous showing my work to a crew of experienced builders though!

Matthew

[rick91351]

I'll start a build thread soon...I'm a little nervous showing my work to a crew of experienced builders though!

Matthew

crew of experienced builders           Oh wow if you only knew.

Within a year most likely you will have paid your dues and offering up huge good advice.......   

[MountainDon]

I'll start a build thread soon...I'm a little nervous showing my work to a crew of experienced builders though!

Matthew

Matthew, starting your build thread before you actually build anything is a great idea. Present an idea or asking the questions beforehand will avoid having making errors. My opinion, that's all.

[Mike 870]

Did a bit more work on the dormer.  I have a couple more shingles to put up on the left hand side and I will be done with it.  I also got started putting the clap boards on the back up.  That should go fast as there are few cuts.  Then I have the side closest to the trees and bushes to finish.  That one should also go fast.

Progress to date with photogenic bike riding friend:


In the interest of preventing people from making the same mistakes as me.  Here is an example of the right way and wrong way to lap shingles at corners.  Another reason why building the shingle panel on the ground was a bad idea.  Eventually I will rip those off and re-do.  Probably after the outside is fully completed.

Wrong way:



Right way:

[PEG688]

You have  a flashing metal under the shingle right? Also you should leave the siding up a minimum of 1" I like it up 1 1/2" off the roofing. The way you have it they will draw moisture and turn dark it the bottoms , or rot off sooner.   You could attempt to cut then off in place using a plywood strip laid on the roof to run a circular saw up   , set the saw just right so you don't cut the metal you should have behind them .

[Mike 870]

PEG, I have flashing metal on all 3 sides of the dormer.  On 2 of 3 sides I have a 1.5 inch gap.  The side you can see was the panel I constructed on the ground then put in place.  It's going to be re-done at some point.    The shingles are also spaced a half inch off the building felt.

[Mike 870]

This is what led to the spacing mishap.  I should have called it quits but I nailed it in place.

Another thing I think looks good that I should have done is have the trim boards on the corners be visually thinner than the exposure of the clap boards.  If you look that is what a lot of builders do and it looks nice.  It's less expensive too. Also would have had the bottm trim boards along the base connect to each other and start the corner trim boards above them. 

Did part of the dormer today.  Lots of cuts involved, and I knew it would take me forever if I were measure, go up the ladder, go down the ladder, repeat.  So I devised a plan.

How to solve this?


Decided to build it on the ground.  Just build a frame and shingled it on the ground.  Cut it to size with the circular saw and some site made tracks.  Also changed the exposure to 6 inches.



And, plan backfires.  Yup, it's crooked, yup it's staying that way.  Eff it will piss me off every time I look at it though. Also if anyone does this, there should be a gap between the roof shingles and the bottom of the shakes.  I planned for a gap, but when I got it up there, it was gone.  Must have measured wrong.  Couldn't cut it smaller because of nailing.  Oh well, make the mistakes on the shed and when I get to the cabin (someday)  I'll be a pro.

[John Raabe]

Thanks for sharing your learning experience. Showing what we would do differently next time makes it valuable for everyone.

[PEG688]

Some times you just have to climb the ladder , again , and again and again.


What you can do to save a few trips is make a quick jig to index a course of shingles , and cut a "book" , cut multiple rows , pack them up to the roof and install.

1/2" off the felt isn't enough, you need at least 1" off the roofing 1 1/2" is better IMO , if I'm striking a line off the felt I strike it at 2 1/2" , you want to see the flashing , crap blows into that area , gets wet , rot happens.

Nice looking shed , I only add my comments to help other folks out,  long term tweaking.  People will use your photo's sort of monkey see monkey do style  over all you're doing a nice job. Keep it up!    

[Mike 870]

Yep, lot's of mistakes to go back and fix.  So 1/2 inch spacing behind the shingles is not enough?  I've heard it's preferable to have 3/4 to 1 inch, but that 1/2 isn't absolutly bad. 

[PEG688]

  Do as you see fit, it's yours to maintain.  I base my opinion on about 30 years of on the job experience.

[Mike 870]

Finished siding the back side and am halfway up the final side.  I also put in the front window. I put hinges so it can fold up.  The hinges look dumb, but its nice to be able to open it.  Also took the circular saw and cut off a couple inches of shingles on the bottom side of the dormer.  Still have to get the final corner with the multi tool.

[chaddhamilton]

Looks great!

[archimedes]

nice.   

[Mike 870]

Well about a year to the day I started I am done with phase 1 of the workshop, shabin, Taj M'shed.  I finally got a door on it which means I can not lock it and leave my tools out there rather than hauling them in and out everytime I work on something.  I will admit I am a bit worried about wood movement causing the doors to buckle but this is the way the book I have said to contstruct them.  There is about 3/8ths of in inch combined space for them to expand.   I can always re do them if I have problems. 






I also got the final side of siding done.  Didn't spend too much time worrying about details on this side since it is blocked by trees and only seen from far away in the winter.



I decided to just button up the dormer windows for the winter.  Building the windows right would require a good workspace and well set up shop, which i can do now that the shop is finished!  I will hopefully have them done by spring.  Not sure If I want to do a sort of prairie style or just kinda match the bottom window.


All in all it was a great project, fun experience, I learned a lot, made a lot of mistakes and am better off If I ever get to build the dream cabin somewhere in the woods.  After standing in this structure, I decided I wouldnt want to go much bigger, maybe 14 by 20 with a bunk room and a bump out, and a loft. 

I saved all my reciepts, final cost on the project was $5,100