Al and Robins 20x30 1 1/2 near Lake Eufaula, OK

Started by ajbremer, May 09, 2011, 04:01:01 AM

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CjAl

With a hammer like that its no wonder you used steel. Lol
:(

Don_P

Although I have tables for weights of materials I don't like to cut it fine and for my own projects tend to round things up and play it conservative. You can sum the actual weights of materials and cut it as fine as you like, generally there are assumptions used for the dead load portion. Live loads are specified in the code book for things like floor loads or by your local jurisdiction for things like wind and snow. Specific heavy or concentrated point loads should be accounted for as well. These are all summed and distributed amonst the load bearing members according to how much of the load each will bear. When this is beyond the capabilities of the builder it is a good idea to have an engineer check your design. This is not necessary if one is building within the guidelines in the codebook but when you step outside of those guidelines and use unconventional materials that you have no real idea about the strength of it is prudent to have someone experienced review your assumptions.

If you reread the comments notice that he felt the angle steel posts were probably marginally sufficient for the vertical loads but with those in conjunction with a lateral load, wind, the combination might be pushing things. No one has done the math, this was an observation about the wrong shape being used for the purpose. I don't disagree, this is why when you asked previously about tables or formulas for steel angle as beams I was unable to find a table and tried to direct you to a channel. For columns I have tables for the square steel tubing, and again nothing for the steel angle used as a column. These shapes are not generally used for these purposes, the comments are adressing why. That will not change what has been done here but can serve as a heads up to those thinking about these methods. As I said earlier I think the basic idea has alot going for it. Choosing the right sizes and shapes, connecting them well and placing them correctly in appropriately sized piers would make a much stronger foundation than wood pier and beam.


ajbremer

#152
Thursday Night - October 6th, 2011

Finished shortening the 'too long' lapped floor joists today. Tomorrow I will get back on the last row of cross bridging and then the Advantech subfloor...cool man!

When I get my subfloor on, I'm not going to do the 'countryplan jig' but I'm going to play a jig - on my guitar and record it. I'm not going to write a countryplan song or nothing like that but I'll do a nice Jerry Reed/Chet Atkins finger style tune on my classical. Here's a tune I played and recorded, laid down a couple percussion tracks, guitar tracks, and a little keyboard. I copied the way Jerry Reed and Chet Atkins played it together back in 72. Here's the link to that:

http://hockeya.com/serenade.mp3

And here is a pic of my joists now correct:

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

CjAl


Alan Gage

I'm glad to hear you're going with 4x8 sheets for the floor. I know you said you had the 2x12s laying around already but it seems like down the road there would be better uses for that lumber.

Alan


ajbremer

#155
Your right Al, as time passed by I felt worse and worse about using the 2x's as a subfloor. I'm glad I'm doing what's right and what most people do. Thank God for this forum.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

#156
Sunday Night - October 9th, 2011

Finally got all of my cross bridging done. I used treated 2x4's for the bridging. Now it's onto the bracing and then laying down the Advantech.

You'll notice angle-iron of top of the 4 corner posts and the 2 middle post, I put that there just so the rain wouldn't get down in them.

Here's a pic of what I have so far:

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

CjAl

Al

in that other thread you were considering log siding. You may want to.look here
logsidingcabins.com
Theyre in rogers AR


ajbremer

#158
Monday Night - October 10th, 2011 Oklahoma, USA

Thanks for the log siding link CjAl, I just got in so I haven't checked it out yet but will do before work tomorrow morning.

I really love the log siding look but I don't want to spend thousands for it. Lowe's has pine 3x8 D-logs for 1.?? per linear foot. I would imagine that they would have to be treated every year?

Anyway, I started clamping up my bracing today. I'll have 34 lengths delivered tomorrow. I'm sure I'll get them up, screwed, and welded in no time. I'm going to jack-up the main angle-iron so that it just meets the double 2x12 rim-joist with just a slight bit of pressure. (In some places the angle iron is already meeting the 2x's but in others you can see a little light because it's not touching.) Then I'll clamp and screw in each brace. Then I'll have the welder come out when their all screwed in and ready to go.

Both the angle iron under the 2x12's and the brace angle iron is 4" x 4" x 0.400 thick, really stout stuff - even those little pieces are heavy.

Here's a pic of clampage, sorry about the darkness - I've been working into the dark now for many days...

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.


ajbremer

#159
Tuesday Morning - October 11th, 2011 Oklahoma

I've been looking into log siding, as you may have read in previous post, and CjAl lead me to a log siding site over in Rogers, Arkansas called "Rustic Log Siding Woodshop" http://www.logsidingcabins.com/index.html. I've been trying to figure out the price of siding and the amount I need to do the job.

I looked at the types of siding and the prices and here's what I've come up with.

John's 20 x 30 1 1/2 loft plans show that the wall studs are 10'. To figure out the total wall square footage I did this:

( (10' x 30') x 2 ) + ( (10' x 20') x 2 ) + ( (Area of a Rt. triangle with one angle 45 degrees & one 10' side) x 4) = 1,200 Sq. Ft.

600 + 400 + (50x4) = 1,200 (Someone please let me know if I figured that out right because I'm going to be pricing other types of siding also.)

Now, that log siding site said to convert Sq. Ft. to Linear Ft. using their 8" siding you need to multiply Sq. Ft. by 1.8

1,200 x 1.8 = 2,160 Linear Ft. for those 8" logs.

Ok, the price of their T&G Yellow Pine 8" chink-joint siding is $1.09 per linear feet.

2,160 linear feet x $1.09 = $2,354.40 + 9% tax ($211.90) = a total of $2,566.30 to side the 20x30 1 1/2. (If you want to add 'Hand Hewn' to all the siding then they charge another .25 per linear foot)

I realize that I didn't account for the square footage of the window and door openings but I figure that's only a couple hundred Sq. Ft. and that might knock off about $430.00 or so.

My other option at this point is the type of siding I see here at this following link, I think it's a type of pine lap and I also think it is John's 20x30 plans too - can someone please help me figure out what it is? Here's what I'm talking about: http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=6268.0

By the way, I've always loved Dusty's build (the link above). Those Shed Dormers on each side with that porch, wow! Anybody know if it's possible to email Dusty or get a hold of him? His build sure looks the greatest.
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

MountainDon

I didn't check your math, but it looks ok. But I have a question about that 8" number. The 8" in 8" siding is usually what the wood started out as as the listed nominal width. Then it is machined; planed smooth, shaped, etc. And there is an overlap. Do the calculations reflect the actual coverage area?  There will also be some waste from some pieces having a split end or something. Some cutoffs will be too short to be used without having an excess numbers of end to end joints. Allow maybe 10% for waste.

Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Alan Gage

My 8" cedar bevel siding was actually a little over 7".

Alan

MountainDon

Right, my T&G 1x6 covered something like 5 1/4, maybe a tad less.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

Alan Gage

I guess it didn't really matter with my bevel siding since I was going to do a 6" reveal anyway. It could goof you up with something like T&G though.

Alan


ajbremer

#164
 Wednesday Night - October 12th, 2011 Oklahoma, USA

Last night I got my first two braces up and bolted in and ready for the welder. Today I did the bracing on 1 of 4 middle piers:



Here's some shots of doing the first middle pier:


Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

ajbremer

#165
Thursday Night - October 13th, 2011

Bracing is coming along. I realized that I had to get the middle bracing done first because I didn't want to crawl around in between outer bracing to get to the middle.

Also, I got on Advantechs website and they have a form there that you can fill out to receive a sample of the flooring and other information. Well, FedEx came to my place today and delivered me some 3/4" flooring...for free! (Only problem is that the two pieces are only about 4" x 8") Hey, that's a start!

Here's a picture of my finished (except for welding) middle bracing:

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

CjAl

A thousand or so more free samples and you will have a floor

NM_Shooter

Not that it matters, but your bracing is making me feel much more comfortable  ;D
"Officium Vacuus Auctorita"

Bob S.

I echo Shooter's coment 100% that is starting to look like a vary solid foundation system.

NM_Shooter

How did you screw that angle iron together?  What fasteners did you use?  Did you have to pre-drill the holes?

I frequently have little luck drilling through angle iron.  Either my technique or my drill bits suck. 
"Officium Vacuus Auctorita"


ajbremer

#170
10-16-2011 Sunday Night Oklahoma, USA

Thanks for the comments.

Yes, I feel more comfortable because of all the bracing I've done. Thank you all for your suggestions.

Well, today I finished all of the bracing. It took me 3 or 4 days and I'm glad to have finished it. The part I didn't like the most was cutting it with the little angle grinder that I'm using. Sparks fly around and on top of my head, the wheel will get stuck now and then, and it seemed kind of dangerous here and there but a wheel never actually broke on me. BUT, I am very thankful for that angle grinder though, with out it I would have had to hack saw it (I actually did hacksaw the first couple of post off before I got the angle grinder, each one took about 20 minutes).

The screws that I used to attach the bracing are TEKS Self-Tapping screws. Teks number 5's for fastening metal to metal (.125 - .500) They also have what's called 'Climaseal Coating'. They have a 5/16 head, 60 to a box, and the ones I used are: 12-24 X 1 1/4". They say they are self tapping but yes, I did have to pre-drill the holes. Then, I would dip each screw in motor oil. I would have to go in and out a couple of times before the screws would tap all the way to the head, even with my powerful DeWalt gun. The screws are only there to hold the angle iron for the welder. So, the strength of the screws and the weld will be what holds the bracing onto the frame.

I have a youtube video that I'm uploading. I will post its link in the morning - please check it out.

Here's a pic of the TEKS I used:


Here's some bracing pics. This first one is where 3 meet into one post:


And here is another shot of the bracing:


One more shot of a total view:
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

CjAl

Your welder is going to hate you for putting the so close to the ground. Lol

are those steel stairs? Where you getting all the steel goodies from? Must be getting a deal because steel is way more then wood right now

ajbremer

#172
Monday Night - October 17th, 2011 Oklahoma, USA

Ya CjAl,

Those are steel stairs, two of them. You kind of can't tell by looking but they are the type of stairs where you fill in the steps with concrete. I'm going to dig two holes and use (once again) angle iron piers to hold them up after the place and porch is done. I can barely move them even when using a 16 foot 2x12 as a pry bar. I really need some kind of tractor or fork lift at my place!
Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.

CjAl

Instead of filling with concrete you could put wood in them and screw it down.

ajbremer

#174
Sunday - October 23rd, 2011

Welder welding bracing:



Welded Bracing:

Click here to see our 20x30 and here to see our 14x24.