Framing Square

Started by OldDog, October 26, 2006, 05:55:07 AM

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OldDog

Since this is my first post to the board I would like to tell everyone that I have enjoyed reading everything I have seen posted so far.  The pictures are great and the different approaches to construction caught my eye.

I currently use a camping trailer with a pole barn construction cover on my property on Kentucky Lake.  My hope is to replace it with a "Little House" also of pole barn construction.  Thats another topic.

Now my question.

Does anyone know where to find on-line information on the using the Framing Square?

It is probably one of the most valuable tools you can own if you can remember what it will do!
If you live a totally useless day in a totally useless manner you have learned how to live

optionguru



T

#2
Unsure if you have used one of these? Look up the use of a 'speed square' I use both and depending I really like the speed square better IMHO.. just wish it came with a method to clip to the tool pouch.. anyways.. I find it "speedier"  ::)
regards,
T

Amanda_931

I think that speed squares are much nicer for making my crosscuts straight.

But for measuring even plain rafters (let alone hip and valley rafters--I think I'll avoid them)?

glenn kangiser

Welcome, Old Dog.

Don't forget 3,4,5  - 6,8, 10 -- 30, 40, 50 etc. and diagonal measuring when doing big squaring.  Welcome to the forum. :)
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

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davestreck

--
Sláinte...

Dave

"Bíonn caora dhubh ar an tréad is gile"

olypen

When I bought my first framing square, a Stanley, it came with a nice little? booklet on how to use it.  I have seen in books on carpentry that some of them, especially the older ones, devote sizable chapters to the art and practice of using a framing square.  They are very useful tools if you take the time to learn, and remember, how to use them.

JRR

#7
For those who like puzzles/problems:

How can precise/square pilot holes be drilled from one corner thru to the opposite corner of a square post?  Assume an INSTALLED four foot 4x4 post, and you want to drill the pilot hole at mid-height.

I actually face this problem as I want to install dowels between near-corner posts on a railing being installed on a deck.  The idea is to have a "ladder" of dowels for unique corner detail.  I have looked for some vee-block as a drill guide, but found nothing that was reasonable in cost.  I have a "solution", of sorts, in mind; but it has not been proven yet.  My solution does involve a square.

glenn kangiser

I think I would just build my own v block with a fairly long pipe guide welded or bolted to it.  Bolting could give some adjustability but could change a bit if not well made.

Either of my solutions would require welding and cutting steel.
"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.


Amanda_931

I'd hate to have to do one diagonally, but I used to be pretty good at drilling holes across the flat parts of a 4 x 4 and meeting each other.

Way back in 1776 Skil had a contest--if you could do that in three tries they would give you a special bicentennial edition 1/4 inch drill.

I got one.  Can't remember if I had to drill a second set to prove to the guy I really did it. Don't think so.

but I'd just made a set of those 2x2 sticks with zillions of holes in them, including some that had to be drilled so that they crossed in the middle.  (for a "kitchen"--place for a small oven, a small refrigerator, counter space and shelves--the book, now a collector's item, called them box beams--we've had a thread here somewhere on them--for a while I had a loft bed made out of them too)

John_C

This used to be a common chore in building wooden bosts.  How to (very) accurately drill the propellor shaft log through a big section of deadwood (the solid part of the keel).

One of the tricks, in addition to various jigs, was to use a barefoot auger.  Barefoot meant it didn't have a pilot screw and was consequently less likely to follow the grain as you drilled.  It would not be unusual to have to drill through a couple feet or more of end grain oak.   It was also not uncommon, in spite of all precautions, to drill out through the side of the keel.  In that case you glued a plug in the errant hole and started over.  I think woodcraft may still sell barefoot augers.

If you want to see how it was done in boatbuilding chase down one of the books on traditional boatbuilding.   Boatbuilding by Howard Chapelle     or   Wooden boats (I think)  by Pete Culler come to mind.

I believe it will be tedious work if you have many of them to drill.
Good Luck.  

olypen

First for the on-line info, I just googled "framing square" and got lots of different sites.  There seemed to be quite a bit of info there.      Also....yesterday I ran across a reference for a book called "The Steel Square" by Fred G. Hogdson.   As to the "speed square" reference, they have their place.  There are many uses for them on the job.  You can do things with them that you can't do with a framing square but there are many, many things that you can use a framing square for that a speed square just can't do.   I keep a speed square in my tool belt but the framing square is never too far away.

glenn kangiser

Don't forget these for repeat cuts, stairs etc.

"Always work from the general to the specific." J. Raabe

Glenn's Underground Cabin  http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=151.0

Please put your area in your sig line so we can assist with location specific answers.