Using T1-11 to side a shed

Started by ChugiakTinkerer, October 25, 2017, 11:00:54 AM

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ChugiakTinkerer

My sister is building an 8x16 shed that she wants to ultimately use as a studio.  So she wants it insulated and tight.  To save a few $$ she's thinking about siding with T1-11.  I've built a few sheds with T1-11 but never one with insulation and moisture barrier.

We have framed it up and are ready to dry it in.  It looks like the way to proceed would be to:
1. Apply house wrap over the studs, attaching with staples.
2. Install door and vinyl windows, flashing with bituthane flexible seal (not sure if door needs to come after siding).
3. Install T1-11, using Z-flashing where one panel is installed above another.  Stagger seams?
4. Trim edges and openings.

Does that sound right?
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story

cbc58

good question.  i was looking at "Plytanium" siding at the big box store for a shed recently (similar to t-111 but with narrower striping.) I would have installed the windows / door after the siding was on...(with flashing and trim) but that may be wrong with this material.  my thought is that I could put it up and then zip out the openings with a jigsaw or router -- not sure how the corners are handled with this stuff so curious to hear what you wind up doing... 


MountainDon

The tract home developers here in NM used to use some sort of sheet siding on a lot of homes. Similar stuff to T1-11, etc.  They always applied the siding first as if it was OSB. Then they cut all the window openings out, then installed windows and lastly the trim. I do not know what they did for flashing, but I suspect it was after windows and before trim.  Not certain on the order of the door work but probably the same as windows to keep it all simple for the low wages labor.
Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn't mean it is good design.

JRR

When using a single-layer material, such as T1-11, as sheathing and siding ... how can a "drain plane" be formed?  I suppose one could install a furring layer against the inside of the sheathing, and a membrane inside of that;  but now things are getting complicated and with unsure performance.  A good case for a huge roof overhang.

akwoodchuck

Quote from: JRR on October 26, 2017, 04:37:22 PM
A good case for a huge roof overhang.

Yep...just like with logs. The heyday of T-111 was also the heyday of wooden-framed, brickmolded windows....install window, squirt a tube or two of sillycone around the edges, call her good. Also slap deck ledgers right up against T-111, where they promptly start rotting....you can see it all over the state....
"The lyf so short, the craft so long to lerne."


ChugiakTinkerer

That sounds like my house!  It was built in 1983, has T1-11 around the back and sides, but at least some nice cedar lap siding on the front.  The year after I bought it, I noticed some soft spots in the deck supports.  Went to push my screwdriver against it and it sank in all the way to the handle.

Quote from: JRR on October 26, 2017, 04:37:22 PM
...
A good case for a huge roof overhang.
Back to the shed, I've convinced her a 24" overhang is good for the eaves.  I was thinking a 12" rake overhang for the gable ends, but might encourage going to at least 18".  We're framing the rafters this weekend so there's still time to make adjustments.
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story

LatinForLiar

I have a similar project using smartside panels (which I recommend, as painting unprimed t1-11 is a pain). Order of install for "open stud" construction is Studs then vapor barrier then flanged windows/brickmould doors, then trim windows, then panels go last. Fill gaps with caulk. There are videos on YouTube. Look up open stud construction.

NathanS

I'd just plan to put house wrap, Windows and siding on the same non windy day. Flash Windows to house wrap, install t111.

Overhangs are definitely good, I see water on our upstairs Windows underneath a 2 foot overhang though. Most important thing for a wall is drying out as fast as possible in my opinion.

LatinForLiar

I meant housewrap, not sure why I said vapor barrier. I'm using 15# felt fwiw.


ChugiakTinkerer

Thanks for the feedback.  The DuPont web site has some nice how-to flashing tutorials in support of Tyvek wrap.  Going to go the studs -> housewrap -> windows & doors -> flashing -> T1-11 route.  It should hold up much better than my old shed that has no wrap and no flashing.  d*
My cabin build thread: Alaskan remote 16x28 1.5 story