Thanks for the kind words all.
that is most of the lumber for framing - there will doubtless be more stuff I forgot or 'misunderestimated' but it was at best an educated guesstermation anyway. I wasn't worried about being too precise as we plan to build a 1 1/2 storey straight after so any leftovers will get used and it's not far to nip out and pick up anything we forgot.
Got our well pump installed in the last couple of days. As it took me quite a while to sift through the info available on the internet and work out what was good and what was B.S. I took a lot of pics in the hope that it will help someone else. I'm not suggesting that this is the best way to do it but it made sense to me. (Sorry if like us you are on dial up - now is the time to make a cup of tea...)
First we checked the well depth. The report said it was 99ft deep with a static level of 12ft. In fact it was deeper than 100ft with a static level of 6ft. (How much deeper I don't know the tape was only 100ft.)
First we had to cut through the casing to install the pitless adapter.
Here it is ready to install. The handle remains in the well for any future maintainence. We stuffed a polybag in the pipe to stop the female part sliding off and down the well. Don't forget your safety rope - or to remove the polybag!
Here it is nipped up on the casing.
Here is the pump being prepared. We opted for a grundfos 3 wire pump. It has a slow start feature which is supposed to stop the torque jerking the assembly and chafing it on the sides of the well at start up.
The heat seals for the wire splice.
The "torque arrestor" - another anti chafe device required by law in Nova Scotia. There was some debate surrounding these between local pump intallation folks. Some held that it was more likely to cause problems if loose rocks dropped off the well sides on top of it making the pump difficult to pull - I made sure it was a loose fit. Note that the wire doesn't run under the hose clamps.
I slid some spare pipe over the splice as this area will be one of the weakest and most liable to chafe.
I also put a good amount of slack in the wire as the pipe can apparently stretch. The wire was taped to the pipe about every 5 ft. I also slid another couple of short sections of pipe over it to help protect it.
The pump ready to drop. The wire and pipe has been run out straight along the ground next to the well and safety rope attatched.
Down we go...
It really helped having someone else in the trench to help locate the pitless adapter.
The well cap with wire and safety rope.
Some metal conduit to protect the wire where it enters the ground.
The water line is attatched to the pitless adapter.
We protected the wire and waterline with some heavy duty poly pipe we picked up that was the remains of old fish farm cages. The "soil" was pretty much rocks and gravel some of it quite sharp.
The wire and pipe entering our homemade inspection chamber...
and exiting it ...
I fixed a few bits of bigger pipe together like so -
this means if there is any frost heave the pipe should "telescope" with the movement.
We slid yet another piece of pipe over the wire and waterline and into the chamber - this is the area in danger from freezing. We insulated the pipe and placed a heat tape inside it. I put some expanding foam around the top to seal it all. If there are any problems with freezing or the heat tape we should be able to remove/replace it easily.
Here's the finished results with the floor joists. It will eventually enter the cabin under one of the cabinets in the kitchen area.
Now we're ready to insulate and lay the subfloor.
Hopefully by this time next week we'll be thinking about walls!